I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 1 

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THE 

FRUIT GROWER'S INSTRUCTOR, 

BEING 

A PRACTICAL TREATISE 

ON THE 

CULTIVATION AND TREATMENT 

OF 

FRUIT TREES: 

TO WHICH IS ADDED, 

FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR FORCING, 

WITH 

A LIST AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF ALL THE BEST FRUITS 
CULTIVATED IN GREAT BRITAIN; 

ALSO DIRECTIONS FOR 

HOTHOUSE BUILDING, 

WITH THE MOST APPROVED MODES OF HEATING BY FIRE 
AND HOT WATER. 

THIS WILL BE FOUND A SUCCESSFUL GUIDE TO THE CULTIVATION AND FORCING OF FRUITS 
IN EVERY DEPARTMENT, FROM THE PINE DOWNWARDS, AS IT COMPREHENDS THE 
MANAGEMENT OF THE PISERY, VINERY, PEACHERY, AND OTHER FRUIT-TREE 
FORCING HOUSES ; WITH SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING- ALSO DIRECTIONS 
FOR FORCING CHOICE PLANTS, &C. THEREIN . TOGETHER WITH FULL IN- 
STRUCTIONS FOR GROWING MELONS, EARLY STRAWBERRIES, &C. 

THE WHOLE WRITTEN FROM PRACTICE, 

BY GEORGE BLISS. 

n 

SECOND EDITION, GREATLY ENLARGED. 



LONDON : 
JAMES RIDGWAY, 169, PICCADILLY. 

1841. 



LONDON: 

BLATCH AND LAMPERT, PRINTERS, GROVE PLACE, BROMPTON. 



PREFACE. 



It is necessary to prefix a Preface to a work 
of this nature, to give the reader such informa- 
tion as may be useful during its perusal ; to 
explain and point out the nature and arrange- 
ments of its principal parts ; likewise to duly 
prepare him for what the work contains, which 
is of great advantage both to the author and 
himself. 

It often happens in works of this sort, as 
well as in many others, that quotations are made 
from other authors, in order to sanction and 
gloss over their own productions, sometimes of 



IV PREFACE. 

praise, sometimes of ridicule, just as it may suit 
the passage or parts alluded to : but by caution- 
ing my readers against inexperienced authors, I 
do not intend throughout this publication to call 
any one name in particular in question, as. 
perhaps, much which has been written has been 
to the best of the writer's judgment. But when 
a person is about to become a fruit grower, 
(particularly on an extensive scale.) he ought to 
be cautious how he follows the advice of inex- 
perienced or theoretical persons : for I have read 
many works professing to treat on horticultural 
and gardening subjects, which are more cal- 
culated to amuse than enlighten. There is a 
difference between rules of treatment by which 
certain effects can be insured, and hereditary 
customs, (if I may use the term) by which 
advantages may accident ally follow: yet the 
sticklers, nay almost worshippers, of these latter, 
will not hesitate to attack the experienced man, 
because, in one instance out of a hundred, he 



PREFACE. V 

has happened to succeed contrary to the advice 
of the former. 

But the treatment of fruit trees altogether 
requires long practice and close application ; 
and I intend in this small treatise to explain so 
clearly the necessary treatment of fruit trees^ 
that every one who is able to read it may under- 
stand. I might fill three volumes twice the size, 
and not convey more practical information to the 
reader than will be found in this small book ; 
and those who follow its instructions need not 
fear success, as I do not intend to speak of any- 
thing which I have not fully proved. This work 
will be confined to that profitable and beautiful 
part of horticulture, the most leading fruits 
cultivated in this country ; among which I shall 
treat largely on apples, they being of all fruits 
the most profitable and useful, and I may add 
the most beautiful, for the bloom in spring is 
extremely handsome, and the fruit when ripe 
the same. Indeed it may be denominated with 



vi 



PREFACE. 



strict propriety, a truly British fruit, being the 
most staple commodity of the kind grown in 
England ; and unlike any other, may be ob- 
tained in perfection during any month through- 
out the year. 

It is impossible to write a book that will 
apply, to every particular case, and as this is not 
intended as an introduction to Botany, or a 
Gardener's Dictionary, I think it would be 
wrong to confuse the reader with more than is 
stated in the title page. I am certain there is 
great room for improvement in England, were 
the soils and situations properly studied, after 
the following treatise. I should not speak so 
confidently, were it not from a long series of 
practice ; for when I say there are thousands, 
and tens of thousands of apple and other trees, 
in different parts of England, which have been 
grafted and managed by my own hands till they 
have been sent to their respective places of des- 
tination, together with the opportunity of fruit- 



PREFACE. 



vii 



ing and improving all the best sorts now in 
cultivation — the confidence in attempting this 
work will not be surprising. 

In addition to the treatise on fruits, budding, 
and the various modes of grafting trees, with 
interesting observations thereon, I have given a 
list of all the leading fruits now in cultivation, 
both alphabetical and explanatory, which will be 
found very useful to those who are unacquainted 
with them. 

The work is divided into chapters and para- 
graphs, each paragraph beginning and ending 
with the subject it relates to, without being con- 
fused with extraneous matter ; and as the index 
refers to paragraphs as well as pages, any subject 
may be found with the greatest facility. 

I now feel the greatest gratification in know- 
ing that the first edition of this work has had 
the most beneficial results, by causing a vast 
quantity of fruit trees (particularly apples) to be 
be planted in various parts of the kingdom ; 



Vlll PREFACE. 

and what is still more satisfactory, the finest 
sorts have taken the place of those of inferior 
quality, which the markets of the metropolis 
and most other large towns now bear ample 
testimony. 



INTRODUCTION TO PART IL 



Amongst the diversified branches of utility 
pointed out for our pursuits, both in practice 
and, theory, there is none that can class with 
gardening ; it must stand foremost in estimation, 
and ever be acknowledged the basis of the glory 
of every country ; England, then, which is not 
second to any other nation in the world, whose 
navy rides triumphant on the ocean, is more 
indebted to arboricultural gardening than any 
other country ; it is to our timbers we are 
mainly indebted for the comforts we enjoy in 
this highly favoured isle. 



X INTRODUCTION. 

The nobleman and the peasant can rest 
secure in the mansion or the cot, and in peace 
partake of luxuries which Providence has so 
bountifully, through skilful hands, supplied for 
our use, and without such security we could 
not expect long to see our highly-favoured 
fertile soil studded in all directions with seats 
of more or less consequence, the gardens in 
many instances forming the most interesting- 
part, and from which the principal vegetable 
luxuries of life are produced. 

Apart from the luxuries thereof, the import- 
ance of agriculture, which has been long duly 
appreciated, the scientific principles thereof, 
may be likewise traced to have sprung from 
gardening : and w r hen blended together, w r e may 
trace not only all the blessings we possess, and 
comforts we enjoy, but also health, riches, 
and prosperity ; nay more, not only has agricul- 
ture a right to claim gardening for its foundation, 
but every art, trade and profession, indeed every 



INTRODUCTION. 



XI 



individual article of life, may be traced to the 
same source. 

With a view to avoid confusion, which often 
occurs by subjects of this nature, following in 
one continued narrative, I have also arranged 
the second part in chapters and paragraphs, so 
that the reader may refer with ease to any 
subject he may have immediate cause to consult. 
The paragraphs, it will be perceived, are for the 
most part concise, at the same time giving 
ample instructions on each subject under 
separate heads. 

, The chapters, as a whole, w r ill contain a suf- 
ficiently elaborate account of the principal fruits 
for forcing, in which their general management 
will be so explained as to render the contents 
not only of use to the practical man as a refer- 
ence for his general guide, but will also, by the 
clearness of the rules laid down, be found of 
such service to young practitioners in gardening, 
and even to the amateur, that by perseverance 
and application they may attain the height of 



xii INTRODUCTION. 

their profession as fruit-growers in the forcing 
departments, from the pine down to the straw- 
berry. 

The forcing and management of grapes, and 
such other tree fruits which are best suited to 
the forcing house, is clearly explained, with 
some useful remarks relative to the stocks which 
peaches, nectarines, &c, should be budded 
upon, when they are intended for forcing, 
which I would impress on the minds of such 
of my readers who would wish to excel in the 
profession, not to pass over too lightly. 

As this is intended as a general guide to the 
forcing fruit-grower, not any one thing of im- 
portance has been omitted, in order to render the 
work as intelligible and useful as possible, not 
neglecting or rejecting the ancient for the 
modern, nor the modern for the ancient. 

While I am writing from an extensive prac- 
tical knowledge on these subject, let me avail 
myself of this opportunity to confess that since 
the first publication of the Fruit Grower's In- 



INTRODUCTION. 



xiii 



structor, which was my first essay on these 
matters, that I am under great obligations to 
many eminent authors, and more particularly to 
those friends in the horticultural world who have 
furnished me privately with invaluable infor- 
mation on very many important subjects relative 
to gardening ; at the same time, should I differ 
from any of my gardening friends, I trust they 
will not consider it done wilfully to offend, or 
discourage, but having had such vast opportunities 
to put anything connected with the subject to the 
test, I think I should act wrong to flatter any one 
by stating as authentic in this work anything 
which has been merely experimental, and which 
cannot be supported by tried practice, and 
knowledge derived from a fundamental source. 

My having for some years past been engaged 
in suggesting alterations, and improvements iij 
different parts of the country, it has brought 
me into contact with men of the first abilities as 
regards gardening pursuits, and has led me to 
a field for great observation, which greatly 



xiv INTRODUCTION. 

stimulated me to write these sheets ; although 
nothing but a long and great former practice, 
attended with great application on my own part, 
could have given me confidence to attempt a 
work of this nature, and through which means 
I am enabled to form a contrast between ancient 
and modern improvements, and to recommend 
such portions of each that may lead to benefi- 
cial results and ultimate success. 



INDEX, 





Page 


Par. 


On the Propagation of Apples 


1 


1 


Quartering Stocks 


4 


2 


Grafting ..... 


7 


3 


Tying Grafts 


12 


4 


Management of Grafts .... 


15 


5 


Snagging of Grafts 


16 


6 


Pruning and Management while in the Nursery. 


17 


7 


Observations before the general cultivation of Apples 


22 


8 


Cultivation of Dwarf Apples 


23 


9 


Directions for planting in bad soils . 


25 


10 


Cultivation of Standard Apples 


26 


11 


Pruning of Dwarf Apples 


28 


12 


Pruning of Standard Apples 


32 


13 


Pruning of Trained Apples, with Observations . 


34 


T4 


Budding of Apples .... 


35 


15 


Description of Budding 


37 


16 


Untying Buds ..... 


40 


17 


Heading down Stocks which are Budded 


40 


18 


Tying and Suckering of Buds 


41 


19 


Observations before the Explanatory List of Sorts 


41 


20 



xvi 



INDEX. 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF 

Ribston Pippin . 
Court of Wyck Pippin 
Scarlet Nonpareil 
Old Nonpareil . 
Downton Pippin 
Sykehouse Apple 
Yellow Ingestry Pippin 
Hick's Fancy 
Old Golden Pippin 
Franklin's Golden Pippin 
Early Oslin Apple 
Scarlet Pearmain 
Royal Pearrnain 
Margaret Apple 
Duchess of Oldenburgh 
Golden Reinet 
Xing of the Pippins 
Wellington Apple 
Kerry Pippin 
Wheeler's Russet 
Powell's Russet 
Devonshire Whitesour 
Margell 
Cristy's Pippin 
Beauty of Kent . 
Emperor Alexander 
Keswick Codlin 
Luccomb's Seedling 
Northern Greening 
Scarlet Admirable 
Royal Russet 



Page Par. 

SORTS. 

. 42 21 

. 42 22 

. 43 23 

. 43 24 

. 43 25 

. 43 26 

. 44 27 

. 44 28 

. 44 29 

. 45 30 

. 45 31 

. 45 32 

. 45 33 

. 46 34 

. 46 35 

. 46 36 

. 46 37 

. 46 38 

. 47 39 

. 47 40 

. 47 41 

. 47 42 

. . 47 43 

. 48 44 

. 48 45 

. 48 46 

. 48 47 

^ . 49 48 

. 49 49 

. 49 50 

. 49 51 



INDEX. 



XVII 



Cockagee 

Shepherd's Newington 
Striped Holland Pippin 
Dutch Codlin . 
Kentish Codlin 
Norfolk Storing 
Norfolk Beefin 
Lemon Pippin 
Loan's Pearmain 
Hawthorne Dean 
Hertfordshire Pearmain 
Kirke's Lord Nelson 
French Crab 
Nonsuch 
Norfolk Paradise 
Woodstock Pippin 
Mank's Codlin 
Pile's Russet 
Braddick's Nonpareil 
Observations 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES NOW GENERALLY 

CULTIVATED . 56 72 

Cider Apples . . . 59. 73 

Apples recommended for small Gardens . 60 74 

The mode of producing new kinds of Apples . 62 75 

Observations on the different modes of Grafting 65 76 



CHAPTER II. 

PEARS. 

Introductory Remarks 



71 



77 



xviii 



INDEX. 



Explanatory List of Pears 
Alphabetical List of Pears 



Page Par. 
73 78 
78 79 



Remarks . . . .79 

Explanatory List of Plums . . .79 

Alphabetical List of Plums . . 84 

CHERRIES. 

Useful Observations . . .85 

Explanatory List of Cherries . . .86 

Alphabetical List of Cherries . . 88 

APRICOTS. 

Remarks on the Stocks for Budding, &c. . 89 

Explanatory List of Apricots . . .90 

Alphabetical List of Apricots . . .92 

PEACHES. 

Remarks . . . . .92 

Explanatory List of Peaches . .94 

Alphabetical List of Peaches . . .98 

NECTARINES. 

Explanatory List of Nectarines . . 99 

Alphabetical List of Nectarines . .101 

GRAPE VINES. 

Remarks . . . .102 

Explanatory List of Grapes . . .102 

Alphabetical List of Grapes . .108 



80 
81 
82 

83 
84 
85 

8G 
87 



89 
90 
91 

92 
93 

94 
95 
96 



Explanatory List of Figs 
Alphabetical List of Figs 

Of Chesnuts 
Of Earberries 



109 
111 



97 



111 99 

112 100 



( 



INDEX. 



xiv 



Of Quinces 

Of Walnuts 

Of Filberts and Nuts 

Of Raspberries . 

Of Strawberries 

Of Currants 

Of Gooseberries . 

General Observations 



Page Par. 

112 101 

112 102 

112 103 

113 104 
113 105 

113 106 

114 107 
116 108 



PART XL 



CHAPTER L 

ON THE CULTURE OF PINES, WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR BUILD- 
ING, AND GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES, METHODS 
OF HEATING, &C. 



Page Par . 

General description of Hothouses intended for 
Pines, including situations, aspects, &c. ; also 



Instructions for Pits and Hotbeds 


123 


1 


Description of Soils 


144 


2 


Methods of raising Pine plants 


145 


3 


General culture of Pines 


151 


4 


At full growth, order of Fruiting, &c. 


157 


5 


Pots, the proper Sizes . . ... 


158 


6 


Different varieties of Pines, with Observations 






relative to their nature and culture 


159 


7 


Method of making the Bark-bed, its general 






Management and Utility .... 


162 


8 


Sorts of fuel for Fire-heat . . ... 


164 


9 


Regulation of heat, thermometer, &c. 


164 


10 



imdex. 



xxi 



Page Par. 

Of Bark-bed and Fire-heat . , . . 167 11 

Giving Air and Water at different seasons . 169 12 
Hot Water and Steam, the general uses thereof 

in Forcing, with Explanatory Remarks . 170 13 
Raising Pines in Hotbeds .... 178 14 
Management of the Bark-bed in the Pinery .179 15 
Occasional Revival of the Bark-bed . . 183 16 
Winter Management of Pines . . .184 17 
Spring Management of Pines . . . . 185 18 
Summer Management of Pines . . . 186 19 
Observations on Shifting Pines, including direc- 
tions for Autumn Management . . . 190 20 
Insects, remarks thereon, with Instructions how 

to prevent them from being injurious . . 195 21 

Early Grapes in the Pinery . . . . 200 22 
Choice varieties of Fruits, Flowers, &c, in the 

Pinery 202 23 

Useful Remarks relative to the Chapter on Hot- 
house Building, &c 203 24 - 

CHAPTER II. 

ON FORCING PEACHES, NECTARINES, AND APRICOTS, CHERRIES, 
GRAPES, AND OTHER CHOICE FRUITS. 

Observations relating to Peacheries, Vineries, 
and other Forcing Houses, with Introductory 
Remarks on raising different sorts of Fruits, 
Vegetables, and Flowers therein . . . 207 25 

Description of the different plans for Forcing 
Houses, methods of Heating, with general 
Observations 210 26 

Description of a general Forcing House . . 214 27 



xxii 



INDEX. 



Page Par. 

Preparing Borders for the trees, and the different 
Sorts proper for Forcing, including Grape 
Vines 216 28 

Proper Seasons and Methods of Planting trees 
for Forcing 223 29 

Narrow Glass-houses for Forcing principally by 

Fire-heat, or Hot Water . . . . 228 30 

Forcing Frames, for forcing Fruit trees by Bark- 
bed heat alone 229 31 

Vinery or Hothouse, principally for Forcing 
Grapes ; methods of obtaining the Plants, 
with useful Observations . . . .231 32 

How to obtain Fruit trees intended for Forcing, 
with a neces . ry Caution . . . . 233 33 

Management of Vines, and Seasons for Forcing 234 34 

Green-house, or Cold Glass house for Vines . 240 35 

Peach-house, its culture and general utility for 

Forcing 241 36 

Forcing-house for Cherries, with its further Uses 244 37 

Observations relative to the Season, and Methods 

of Fore generally . . ... . 245 38 

Admitting ir, with Instructions for Watering 

in the different Forcing houses . . . 248 39 

Pruning Fruit trees in Forcing houses, with 

Instructions for Training . . . . 251 40 

Blights and Insects on Trees, how to prevent 

and destroy in Forcing houses . . . . 254 41 

The Seasons the different varieties of Fruit ge- 
nerally attains maturity in Forcing-houses . 255 42 

Treatment of Fruit Trees after Forcing . . 256 43 



INDEX. 



xxiii 



CHAPTER III. 

CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR GROWING MELONS, WITH IN- 
STRUCTIONS HOW TO RAISE EARLY STRAWBERRIES J ALSO, 
MANY USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS IN FORCING- 
HOUSES. 

Page Par. 

General Observations 257 44 

Nature of the Melon Plant, its Culture, and 

description of the Fruit .... 258 45 
Different varieties of the Melon, with Observa- 
tions . . 259 46 

Soil proper for growing Melons . . . 261 47 
Preparing dung, &c, for the Hotbeds, for raising 

Melons r . 262 48 

Seed proper for Sowing . . . . . 263 49 
Observations on raising Melons in different 
ways, the times for Sowing the Seed, with re- 

marks thereon 263 50 

Method of Making Hotbed for raising Melon 

plants, with their Management therein . , -965 51 
Making the Fruiting Hotbeds for early and gene- 
ral crops of Melons, with their Management 
therein, copiously laid down . . . 268 52 
Manner of Treating Melons when in bloom .275 53 
Instructions for Renewing the Heat of the Hot- 
bed by linings 276 54 

Remarks relative to Melons while Ripening .278 55 
Late Crops of Melons under Hand-glasses, &c. 279 56 
Raising Melons in Oiled-paper Frames, with 

Directions for making the Frames . . 282 57 
Growing Melons by Bark-bed Heat . . . 285 58 
How to save and preserve Melon Seed . .288 59 



XXIV INDEX. 

Page Par. 

Strawberries, Introductory Remarks on growing 

them 289 60 

Different Sorts of Strawberries proper for Forcing 290 6 1 
Manner of Raising, and Culture of Strawberry 

Plants intended for Forcing . . .292 62 

Forcing Strawberries in the Pinery . . . 294 63 
Forcing Strawberries in Peach and other Fruit 

Tree Forcing-houses, including Vineries . 296 64 
Forcing Strawberries in Hotbeds, with Useful 

Remarks 297 65 

Forcing Raspberries ..... 300 66 

Raising Kidney Beans in Forcing-houses . . 303 67 

Growing Cucumbers in Forcing-houses . . 305 68 

Early Lettuces in Forcing-houses . . . 306 69 

Peas and Beans in Fruit-tree Forcing-houses . 307 70 
Raising early, various useful articles for culinary 

purposes in Forcing-houses .... 308 71 
Observations on Forcing different varieties of 

choice Flowers in Forcing-houses . . 309 72 



THE 



FRUIT GROWER'S INSTRUCTOR. 



PART THE FIRST. 



CHAPTER I. 

On the Propagation, Cu ition, Pruning, and General 
Management of Apple Trees; also, Instructions for 
Budding, the various modes of Grafting, fyc. 

I 

ON THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES. 

Par. 1. — The propagation of apples is, of 
all" other fruits, the most easy ; and yet no tree 
requires more care and good management in its 
general cultivation. 

B 



2 THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES. 

The reason why it is more easy is, because 
the grafts are, if put on in the proper season, 
and made to touch the bark, almost sure to 
grow; but although so easy, it is generally 
attended with more dangerous consequences 
than any other tree, if the grafting part is not 
properly attended to, which will be hereafter 
explained. 

The general method of propagating apples, 
is by grafting on the Crab stock, which stock 
should be raised from the seed of the true 
Crab ; the seed may be procured from those 
who make verjuice ; when a large quantity is 
wanted, it is the best way, as you can generally 
depend on having seed from the true Crab ; 
but this is not the case with many stock-growers, 
for they often sow the seed from apples made 
into cider, which will produce various sorts of 
stocks ; some will grow large and vigorous, 
others of so weak a nature that they will scarcely 
ever make a standard tree. 

The best method is to wash the seed frdm 
the pulp, and let it get rather dry, for its own 
pulp is very apt to rot the pip ; mix it with 



THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES. 3 

some light mould or sand, not too damp ; then, 
the following February, or beginning of March, 
as the weather may suit, you may sow your 
seed in beds or in drills; but beds are best, for 
when you have taken your mould out the proper 
depth, which should be about an inch, you will 
be able, when you have sown your seed, to 
cover it all over alike, which you cannot do so 
correctly in drills : the beds should be about 
four feet wide, leaving two feet between each 
bed for a path, to be able to walk between 
them to weed and keep the beds clean, as that 
is most material to all young seedlings; you 
take the mould out about one inch deep with 
the spade, and put it into the path or alley; make 
the bottom of your beds perfectly level, then 
sow your seed (just as it is mixed, with mould 
or sand), as near as you can judge about one 
inch apart all over the ground, which will be 
much better for the plants than if you sow 
them thicker, for Crabs when drawn up very 
weak, seldom do much good after : then take 
the mould you have thrown into the alleys, and 
sift it over them about one inch ; but if the 

b 2 



4 THE PROPAGATION OF APPLES. 

ground is strong and binding, about three 
quarters of an inch will be quite enough. 

The seed will then remain in the ground till 
the following spring, before you get your ge- 
neral crop, although some few may come up the 
first year ; during that period, the beds should 
be kept carefully clean, while the weeds are in 
a young state, in order that the mould may not 
be disturbed so deep as the seed. 

The following Autumn you may take up the 
seedlings, having had one summer's growth, 
and transplant them into beds, putting them 
about one foot row from row, and about three 
inches apart in the rows : let them stand two 
years, then they will be strong to plant out into 
quarters for grafting, or if the plants are not 
too close together in the seed beds, they may 
stand two years, and the greater part will be 
then strong enough to plant out for grafting, 
without being first bedded. 

QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING. 

Par. 2. — Where you quarter or plant out 
Crab stocks, being intended to grow strong 



QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING. 5 

to throw up standard trees, it is necessary to 
select a piece of deep loamy soil, which should 
be well trenched two spades deep ; this should 
be done as early in autumn as you can, in 
order to get your stocks planted early in No- 
vember, then they will immediately draw root 
which will make a considerable deal of differ- 
ence in their growth the following summer ; for 
if you do not get them planted till late in De- 
cember, the coldness of the ground, even if 
the weather is mild, will prevent them drawing 
fresh root, and they would be better to re- 
main in the beds till February, when they 
would soon begin to vegetate ; for when the 
stocks remain in the ground for some months, 
after being removed and all vegetation ceased, 
the small fibres are very apt to rot, and the 
large roots get in a mildewed, stagnant state, 
which I have proved has been so far injurious 
to the plants, that it often takes them the fol- 
lowing summer to recover themselves, while 
those planted in February will make a good 
growth. 

If your ground is very poor, it will be ne- 



6 QUARTERING STOCKS FOR GRAFTING. 

cessary to give it plenty of good rotten manure, 
to make them throw up standards quick. 

The distance for quartering out the stocks 
for grafting should be two feet six inches row 
from row, and about ten inches apart in the 
rows. Some will give two feet ten inches, or 
three feet row from row; but that I think un- 
necessary, as two feet six inches is quite suffi- 
cient to get between them for all purposes, and 
quite room enough for them to grow so long as 
they ought to remain in the nursery. 

When you plant your stocks you should 
prune the roots, cutting the strong roots 
shorter, and take away as many of the super- 
fluous fibres as you can ; trim up the stock 
clean at the bottom, but be sure to leave buds 
to break from the top, then cut off the top. 
leaving the stock long enough to be about six- 
teen or eighteen inches out of the ground when 
planted ; the stocks should remain two years, 
and then they will be in good order for graft- 
ing, during which time they will require very 
little care or trouble, more than digging be- 
tween and keeping them clean from weeds. 



GRAFTING. 



J 



GRAFTING. 

Par. 3. — We next come to grafting, which is 
one of the most important branches in propa- 
gation, particularly of the apple, it being so 
subject to the canker, and so apt to be injured 
where the graft'is put on the stock, which, if it 
once takes place, is almost sure to destroy the 
tree. 

Grafting appears to those who may see others 
performing it, very easy, like looking at another 
who may write a fine hand, but it requires much 
practice to become a clean grafter, as well as it 
does to write a clean hand ; at the same time 
I shall endeavour so fully to explain it, that 
it may be of considerable advantage to the 
pupil. 

There are various ways to graft, but the best 
and usual method for stocks, planted as before 
described, is what is commonly called whip- 
grafting, for which we must first make the 
necessary preparation. In the first place, some 
strong loam, such as will stick well together, 
should be dug and laid in a heap, if in the dry 



8 



GRAFTING. 



the better; for if you can run it through a sieve 
you will free it from all stones or lumps, which 
will make it mix the better. 

In the next place there must be provided a 
sufficient quantity of horse-dung (I mean the 
clean droppings from the horse, quite clear 
from straw, for it is the best thing to keep the 
clay from cracking,) to allow about one-fourth 
to three fourths of loam ; this must be mixed 
well together, to make it smooth and fine 
enough for plastering, and sufficiently moist 
to be able to mix it about easy in the hands : 
but not too moist, otherwise it would slip off 
the stock, but that would soon be found out by 
those who are using it. 

The next thing to prepare is some bass or 
matting for tying on the grafts. For stocks of 
the age and size before-mentioned, it should 
be cut about one foot and a half long, and 
tied in small bundles ready for the man who is 
to tie the grafts. 

Now having all ready, we must watch our 
season for grafting : where there is a great 
quantity to do, it is necessary to begin as early 



GRAFTING. 



9 



as the season will admit ; and as apples are not 
so early as cherries, plums, or pears, (where 
you have these to graft) your apples must wait 
till they are done ; but if you can begin your 
apples about the middle of March, and finish 
by the second week in April, it is very rare 
that it is too late for them, for I have grafted 
apples with success in the last week in April, 
when the stocks have been out in full leaf; 
but this is a dangerous practice, for if the wea- 
ther sets in very dry, it will so dry up the juices 
of the stocks that many cannot be expected to 
grow, and what do will be very weak, and 
scarcely ever make handsome standards. 

In the next place must be got ready the 
scions or cuttings, which should be of one 
year's growth, and as firm and strong as you 
can get them, so that they are not too large 
for the stocks ; for although weak cuttings will 
grow, they will not make near the growth as 
the strong cuttings, neither will they bear a 
dry harsh spring so well. Now we proceed 
to grafting. In the first place you cut down 
your stocks within four or five inches from the 

b5 



10 



GRAFTING. 



ground, which in large nurseries is done by a 
man before the grafter. After the grafter a 
man to tie the grafts ; then follow two boys, the 
one to what is commonly called dabb, or put 
the clay on the graft, and the other to close the 
clay: in this way you may get through much 
grafting, if the grafter be quick. The grafter 
should have the scions cut in lengths about six 
inches long, and carry them in his apron ; then 
taking out one at a time, he should hold it 
firm in his left hand, then take a slice off 
the end of the scion, rather more than an inch 
long, and be careful not to let your knife cut 
too deep to get into the pith, till it gets near 
the end of the slice : — this is one reason why I 
recommend so short a slice, for in taking a 
long slice you are apt to cut along the pith, 
which is very injurious; although it may not 
signify so much with apples, it is a bad prac- 
tice to follow, for in grafting cherries you will 
scarcely ever have a crop, or what is commonly 
called a good hit. Having made your slice in 
the manner described, you then cut a tongue 
or slit, which should be about a quarter of an 



GRAFTING. 



11 



inch long, (this is another material thing to 
pay attention to,) commencing about a quarter 
of an inch below the top of the slice ; let your 
knife go in not more than half-way through the 
scion, for if you cut too far in when your grafts 
are united, you must be at the unnecessary 
trouble of shouldering or tying them again 
round the top, otherwise those cut too far 
through when they have grown any size, the 
winds will blow down, even after tying them 
a second time. 

Having got your scion ready, you take a 
slice of your stock the length of the slice on 
your scion, make a tongue or slit about the 
same length as that on your scion, beginning 
nearly at the top of the slice, letting your knife 
slope gradually into the stock. If your stock 
is much larger than your scion, do not make 
your slice too deep into the stock, in order 
that your scion may touch the inner rind of the 
stock on both sides as well as the bottom ; but 
be careful to let your scion just touch the 
bottom of the slice on the stock, as that is 
necessary both for its making a good growth 



12 



GRAFTING. 



the first summer, and likewise for its healing 
well over, for the graft derives by far more 
nourishment from the bottom than the side ; but 
be sure do not let your scion go below the 
slice on the stock. By this practice you put 
on the graft in the centre of the stock, which is 
much better than putting it on the side, and 
by this practice you need not tie your grafts 
a second time. 

TYING OF GRAFTS. 

Par. 4. — Having given the necessary in- 
structions for the grafter, tying of grafts is 
the next consideration: the tying is done by a 
man who follows the grafter; he must have his 
bass or matting 1 cut in lengths about one foot 
and a half long, or if the stocks are large, it 
may be longer; this tied in small bundles 
should be taken one at a time, (after dipping it 
in water to make it tough) and tied in the 
string of the apron, putting one end in the 
apron to keep it moist : the bass should be 
strong, otherwise should it break, if the grafter 
be quick, he will have to wait for the man 



TYING OF GRAFTS. 



13 



who ties : the man being now prepared, he should 
begin to tie about four stocks behind the grafter, 
and keep about that distance, which will give the 
grafter room. 

The bass should be placed firm against the 
bottom of the scion, and not let slip, which will 
prevent the scion from being put out of its place; 
this is very necessary to be observed, for if the 
scion is removed by the tying, it is useless for 
the grafter to be particular about putting the 
grafts on ; he should then tie it tight round till 
it comes to the top of the stock, where it should 
have a tight hitch to fasten off, then cut the end 
of the bass close off, for if the end is left an inch 
long, which I have often seen, it prevents the 
clay from being properly closed, consequently 
admitting the air to the graft, which often proves 
fatal. 

The next thing is putting on the clay, com- 
monly called dabbing : this is done by a boy who 
follows the man who ties ; having put his day 
into something to carry it with him, he must take 
a small piece of clay sufficient to cover the whole 
of the incision, and to come about half an inch 



14 



TYING OF GRAFTS. 



above the top of the stock, in order that it may 
hang well on the shoulder ; this he should roll 
up in his hands nearly in the form of an egg, 
then make a hollow in one side of it with one 
hand, sufficiently deep, that when it is put on the 
stock, it will enclose it all round alike. 

After the dabber follows another boy, called 
the closer ; he follows with a pot of dry ashes, or 
dust, to rub his hands with to keep them from 
sticking to the clay, and closes up every crack, 
squeezing it tight round the bottom of the clay 
to keep it from slipping; then making it per- 
fectly smooth, nearly in the form of an egg, it 
finishes the grafting. 

The above is the general way of grafting in 
large nurseries about London ; but where small 
quantities only are wanted to be grafted, the 
grafter may tie his own grafts, and one boy will 
serve both to dab and close. 

I have treated as fully as possible on grafting 
of •apples, as it will serve for most other fruits, 
for this practice of grafting is far preferable to 
saddle or rind grafting for fruit trees. 



MANAGEMENT OF GRAFTS. 



15 



MANAGEMENT OF GRAFTS. 

Par. 5. — We next proceed to the management 
of grafts, which it is necessary to pay great atten- 
tion to. 

The grafts will not require anything to be done 
to them till they have grown five or six inches 
long, unless suckers should break out from the 
stock before the graft shoots, which must be 
carefully cut off and not pulled off, for by pulling 
them off, you leave holes in the stock which the 
insect is very fond of getting into, and of course 
the bottom is the most dangerous part of the 
tree to get the canker in ; therefore they should 
be cut off as clean as possible, and when the 
grafts have grown five or six inches long, you 
should watch your opportunity after rain and the 
clay is wet, to go over your grafts and take off 
those clays which have grown out that length, as 
they will then come off easy, and leave those 
which have not grown out sufficient till another 
time ; for if you take them off too soon, and hot 
dry weather should ensue, they are very apt 
to wither up ; if the weather should continue 



16 



MANAGEMENT OF GRAFTS. 



dry, and your grafts grow too long, you must 
then get the clays off by knocking them with the 
handle of your knife, or anything that will answer 
the purpose ; but be sure to hold the graft as 
steady as you can with one hand, to keep it from 
being removed out of its place, for that would 
be sure death to the graft; therefore as this is so 
much more trouble, it is necessary to take every 
opportunity after rain. 

The day after the clays are removed, you may 
untie the bass, observing that you cut your bass 
at the back of the stock ; and by following the 
above practice, they will require no more tying, 
nor any further attention through the summer, 
than keeping them free from suckers, and cutting 
off the small piece of wood at the top of the stock, 
commonly called snagging; but this must be care- 
fully done. 

SNAGGING OF GRAFTS. 

Par. 6. — When you commence this work, 
which you may do at any time after midsummer, 
it is necessary to have a sharp knife with a smooth 
edge to avoid the knife slipping and cutting the 



SNAGGING OF GRAFTS, 



17 



stem of the graft, which it is very apt to do if 
your knife has a bad edge; and by making those 
cats in the summer season, it leaves a place 
where the insect is very fond of getting in and 
causing the tree to canker. 

It is necessary your knife should be strong, 
and held very tight in the hand : after a little 
practice, if your stocks are not very strong, you 
will be able to take the snag off wdth one cut, 
and after this work is performed, they will require 
no further attention through the summer. I 
shall hereafter make some interesting obser- 
vations on grafting generally, with other me- 
thods. 

PRUNING AND MANAGEMENT OF APPLES WHILE 
IN THE NURSERY. 

Par. 7. — The next thing to explain is the 
pruning and management while they remain in 
the nursery. The first autumn after grafting, 
they are what are called maiden trees, and they 
generally produce from one to three shoots, and 
are by many preferred in this state for general 
planting, where dwarf trees are required, which, 



18 



MANAGEMENT OF 



in some instances, are to be recommended ; for 
where the tree has thrown out three shoots from 
the alternate buds (but not twin buds from the 
same joint,) the three shoots will be quite suffi- 
cient to form the bottom of the tree, and those 
shoots will often throw out quite wood enough 
for the tree to support, which will be hereafter 
explained under the general head of pruning. 

But I shall now confine myself to the general 
management while they remain in the nursery. 
Dwarf trees, as well as standards, being now in 
general request, it is necessary, when the pruning 
season commences, to reserve those for dwarfs 
which are not likely to make standards ; there- 
fore, after having drawn or taken away as many 
maiden trees as you may require, all those you 
intend for standards you must take off all shoots 
but one, leaving the strongest and most up- 
right. 

Those intended for dwarfs should be those 
where the shoots are not upright or strong : in 
this case you ought to cut all off but two shoots, 
and cut those shoots down to about three buds ; 
or where one shoot is much weaker than the 



APPLES IN NURSEHY. 



19 



other, in order to form a handsome tree, it is 
better to take off the weak shoot and cut down 
the strong one to four or five buds, which will 
produce quite a sufficient quantity of shoots, and 
prevent the tree growing strong on one side and 
weak on the other ; this having been performed, 
will be all the pruning they will require till the 
following summer, when those intended for stan- 
dards will require what is called spurring in, — 
that is, while they are in a growing state, soon 
after Midsummer, the young shoots which they 
throw out from the side of the tree should be 
cut off within about an inch from the stem, ex- 
cept about five or six at the top, which will cause 
a general circulation of the sap, and make the 
trees grow evidently stronger and taller during 
the summer ; but unless they are taken before 
they have done growing, it will be of no use, but 
had better cut them close off to the stem towards 
autumn, which it is necessary should be done to 
form a head with five or six shoots. 

The trees at this age being generally about 
three or four feet high in the stem, and commonly 
called half standards, those wishing to plant half 



20 



MANAGEMENT OF 



standards, cannot plant them at a better age. 
if the trees have made a strong growth, for the 
shoots are alternately formed, and consequently 
never crowd or injure each other, which is often 
the case where a tree has been headed down, 
unless it is carefully pruned ; but this the reader 
will be more fully furnished with under the head 
of pruning. 

The dwarfs, likewise, after one year's heading 
down, will have formed shoots enough, and will 
never be at a better age for planting. 

Although a few trees may have grown five or 
six feet high, and make tolerable good standards 
the second year, you seldom find many ; there- 
fore after taking away as many half standards 
as you may have occasion for, the March fol- 
lowing begin to make your half standards into 
standards, by cutting off all the side shoots, 
leaving the upright shoot, cutting that off about 
five feet six inches high, and some six feet, but 
trees are none the better for being- too high in 
the stem. 

After the next summer's growth, if the trees 
are tolerably strong, and have formed a head of 



APPLES IN NURSERY. 



21 



five or six shoots, they cannot be in a better 
state for general planting, for their shoots 
likewise are formed alternately from the stem, 
which, when they get large, causes every limb 
to receive free and equal nourishment from the 
main stem. 

As the trees will not be all fit this season, it 
is necessary to be careful how those are pruned 
which are left, in order to keep their heads 
young, free, and flourishing ; if the stem of the 
tree should not be higher than you may wish 
it, the best way will be to trim the lower shoots 
clean off, leaving only the two top ones, and 
cut those two down to about three or four buds 
each ; or if you wish the tree lower, you must 
cut it down to the two bottom shoots, and be 
careful when you are pruning at this season, 
to cut as close as you can to a bud ; for what 
wood you leave above the bud becomes a dead 
substance, and if it does no other injury it 
greatly disfigures the tree, besides making it 
awkward to remove after the tree has formed a 
head. 

The above instructions are from the time 



22 OX THE CULTIVATION OF APPLES. 

of planting the stocks. I have allowed them 
to remain six years in the quarters before the 
ground is cleared, which I think quite long 
enough ; therefore shall not give any further in- 
structions for pruning while they remain in the 
nursery, for they would not pay for standing ; 
neither would I recommend old trees for plant- 
ing, for although old trees may grow and per- 
haps bear almost immediately, the fruit would 
not be near so fine as those produced from 
young trees, neither would they succeed so well 
in future. 

OBSERVATIONS BEFORE THE GENERAL CULTI- 
VATION OF APPLES. 

Par. 8. — It is both necessary and important 
to make some observations on the cultivation 
of apples, as it more or less affects fruit growers 
generally; for it is too often the case, (some for 
want of thought, others for want of experience) 
to go upon one broad plan, without studying 
the situation, the soil, or the different sorts of 
fruit which would best suit the different situ- 
ations, which I shall endeavour to explain : at 



ON THE CULTIVATION OF APPLES, 



23 



the same time confine myself to a limited num- 
ber of sorts, such as are most esteemed]; for to 
introduce two or three hundred sorts of apples, 
two-thirds of which are not worth growing, 
would only confuse the reader, and render it 
difficult to choose. 

I shall therefore confine myself to fifty sorts, 
giving each their true character ; for it is very 
necessary when you plant either in large quan- 
tities for the market, or in gardens for the use 
of the family, to plant such sorts as will come 
in succession all the year round, which will be 
here explained, and the different seasons when 
each sort is held in its highest perfection. 

CULTIVATION OF DWARF APPLES. 

Par. 9. — As dwarf apples are now so much 
cultivated, we will commence with planting un- 
trained dwarfs in gardens. Having first selected 
your sorts, you must get such trees from the nur- 
sery as described in paragraph the seventh ; but 
before you plant, you should study the situation 
and the soil ; for although many persons are 
afraid to plant apples, because those of their 



24 CULTIVATION OF DWARF APPLES. 

neighbours do not flourish, and the land does 
not appear to suit them, I should not be afraid of 
failing to have fine trees and fine fruit in any 
soil, with my treatment. 

Apples are fond of a deep loamy soil, and 
a situation where they will have plenty of sun, 
and where the soil is naturally good ; you need 
not take any further trouble (where the ground 
is in the habit of being dug) than opening a 
hole sufficiently large to take the root in easily, 
loosening the bottom of the hole about a spade 
deep, and having pruned the roots, plant them 
in the same soil ; and these you may plant in 
any convenient corner of the garden, the same 
as you would a currant or gooseberry tree, and if 
required will not take up more room by being 
properly pruned ; and the same rule may be 
followed in the shrubbery, at such convenient 
distances where you can find an open place for 
the sun to get at the fruit ; or if a piece of 
ground is set apart for a plantation of dwarf ap- 
ples, the distance I should recommend would 
be about twelve feet apart, and then by keeping 
them properly pruned, they would have plenty 



DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING IN BAD SOIL. 25 

of room to grow and receive the nourishment of 
the sun and air.— See Pruning. 

DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING IN BAD SOIL. 

Par. 1 0. I shall now give directions for plant- 
ing where the apples are not fond of the soil, 
say the soil is of a gravelly nature, or nearly a 
bed of gravel. 

You must open a hole at least three feet 
square and three feet deep, bring in some soil 
bordering on clay, and put at bottom (which 
will keep cool) about one foot thick, then fill up 
the other two feet with rich loam, and plant 
your tree right in the centre. 

This it may be said is a great deal of trouble, 
but what is a garden without an apple tree ? — and 
when once done they will last for many years, 
either in gravelly or sandy soil, in neither of 
which apples will do well alone. 

It is under the above treatment indispensably 
necessary to study the sort of stock your apple 
is grafted on ; it should be the small Paradise 
stock, for apples grafted on these stocks will 
bloom beautifully and produce fruit even in pots, 

c 



26 DIRECTIONS FOR PLANTING IN BAD SOIL. 

as the root is of a fine fibrous nature, and will 
remain in a small compass; but the crab is natu- 
rally a strong-rooted tree, and would soon over- 
run the boundaries of the hole made for it, and 
consequently not flourish after : in fact, apples 
grafted on paradise stocks are greatly recom- 
mended as dwarfs, where you do not want the 
trees to grow large, for they generally bear 
very freely on those stocks ; and although the 
fruit will come very fine, they do not produce 
near such strong wood as those grafted on the 
crab ; in all cases in planting of apples be care- 
ful not to plant them too deep, but merely cover 
the roots well. 

CULTIVATION OF STANDARD APPLES. 

Par. 11.— The culture of standard apples is 
so generally known in this country, that it is not 
necessary to make many observations ; at the same 
time a few may not be considered superfluous. 

In the first place, when you select your trees 
from the nursery, be careful there is no blemish 
on the stem caused by the canker ; and when 
orchards are planted the trees should stand at 



CULTIVATION OF STANDARD APPLES. 27 



least sixteen feet apart, but distances vary in 
different countries, from sixteen to forty feet : I 
should recommend about twenty feet, or twenty- 
five if the land is very good, to give room for 
the under eron ; and as there is no fear in future 
of the trees decaying through the canker, it 
would be better than planting them nearer, for 
it is necessary for the meadow to have a free 
current of air, otherwise it would produce a poor 
sour pasturage. 

It is a very good plan to plant the trees three 
or four years or more before the ground is laid 
down for grass, for keeping the ground dug 
about the trees while young greatly encourages 
their growth, and they then become strong and 
out of the way of cattle. 

This plan is often adopted by hop-growers to 
plant their trees before the hop grounds are 
worn out ; and when the meadow is laid down, 
there is at once a fine young orchard in bearing 
without further trouble, and while the trees are 
in that young state they do so little injury to 
the under crops, that the same method may be 
adopted by cropping the land with vegetables 

c 2 



28 CULTIVATION OF STANDARD APPLES. 

or corn, but not too near the tree, for any thing 
of strong growth is very injurious; those who 
plant standards in gardens, must be guided by 
the spots they can best select to plant the trees 
where they will do the least injury to the vege- 
table crops. 

It would be very wrong to plant standard 
apple orchards on very inferior land; and on 
good land I would by no means recommend very 
large holes, for the ground will naturally sink, 
thereby causing the tree to be considerably 
lower than it ought, which is very injurious, 
particularly if sunk below the graft ; at the same 
time they should be made sufficiently large to 
let the roots in easily, and the earth at the bot- 
tom of the hole finely loosened full one foot 
deep before the tree is put in. 

PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES. 

Par. 12. — The pruning of apple trees is a 
most important thing to attend to, and to un- 
derstand, both for keeping the trees in a healthy 
state, and likewise for the production of fine 
fruit, particularly dwarfs, of which I shall first 



PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES. 29 

treat; I mean common dwarfs (called by some 
dwarf standards) and not dwarf trained trees. 

It is necessary to commence from the maiden 
graft, and go on till the tree is in a state of ma- 
turity, in order to render the process as clear as 
possible. 

Suppose your maiden tree has only one or two 
shoots, it is then necessary to cut them down to 
four or five buds, to get a sufficiency of wood to 
form the bottom of the tree ; the following sea- 
son leave about five of the most regular shoots, 
which will be quite sufficient, or even four, for 
they are none the better for being crowded with 
limbs from the stem. 

But as apples, sometimes the first year after 
planting, will scarcely make any grow r th, they 
had better stand one year after planting before 
they are headed down ; but I should prefer those 
trees which have been one year headed down 
in the nursery, having enough shoots to form 
the bottom of the tree ; I should not leave more 
than six shoots at the outside, but what you take 
out, take out clean, and be sure not to leave any 
blemish, nor bruise the bark with the knife. 



30 PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES. 

I here beg leave to differ from those who re- 
commend heading down dwarf apple trees, when 
they have wood sufficient to form the bottom of 
the tree; I prefer letting it remain, for, as the 
new wood will grow but little the first year, the 
shoots will swell and get strong, and if it is a 
good bearer will form bloom buds all up these 
young shoots : this, perhaps, will alarm some to 
allow the tree to bear so young, but it must be 
remembered that the trees while young will pro- 
duce the finest fruit : besides, it is necessary to 
throw them into bearing early, to keep them 
from growing too luxuriantly. It is useless 
having a great fruitless tree covering a large 
space of ground, while by proper management 
you can get an equal quantity of fruit off a tree 
half the size, and that fruit finer, and the tree 
kept sufficiently strong and in perfect health, by 
the mode of pruning I shall adopt. 

Now the tree having stood two years without 
being headed down as before described, it will 
throw out some young side-shoots towards the 
top of the original shoots; these should be cut off 
within two buds of the bottom, allowing the ori- 



PRUNING OF DWARF APPLES. 31 

ginal shoots to grow straight up, till they get to 
the height you wish them, say five or six feet or 
higher, then cut their tops off, and keep all the 
young shoots spurred in every year, to about two 
buds, nearly the same as you would a red currant 
tree ; by this means it will throw all those spurs 
into bloom buds, and I have seen by this process, 
the trees hanging from bottom to top with apples 
like ropes of onions ; and by pruning away all 
that superfluous wood, the fruit receives the 
whole strength and nourishment of the tree ; and 
besides, by this method, you not only throw your 
trees into bearing, and produce more fruit, but 
they have the advantage of the sun, so essential 
both for their flavour and beauty ; the trouble is 
no more than that of pruning your currants and 
gooseberries, and surely apples are worth as 
much attention. 

When the trees begin to get old, you may 
occasionally leave a clean young shoot, and the 
following year remove an old one, and by so 
doing you will keep your trees in a young, heal- 
thy, bearing state. 

Dwarf apples on the small Paradise stock, may 



32 PRUNING OF STANDARD APPLES. 

(if required) be kept in a much less space than 
those described above, and by this way of prun- 
ing, the trees may be, with proper management, 
kept perfectly free from the canker. 

PRUNING OF STANDARD APPLES. 

Par. 13. — The pruning of standard apples has 
for many years past been attended with very 
dangerous consequences, on account of the can- 
ker ; for where the tree has not been cut parti- 
cularly clean, or left at all bruised, there the 
insect would be sure to get in, and keep wound- 
ing the tree further and further, till it completely 
ruined it ; therefore, in all kinds of pruning, you 
ought to cut very smooth and clean, and then it 
will soon heal over, but if bruised or left rough, 
it will not. 

Having selected the standards with young 
heads, such as are recommended in paragraph 
the seventh, I should plant them without touch- 
ing their heads with a knife, for if you cut them 
down, and they do not break freely the first year, 
they seldom do well after ; but if the head is not 
cut, and the tree does not grow 7 much the first 



PRUNING OF STANDARD APPLES. 33 

year, it will get strong, and the main shoots 
from the stem will get strong likewise, and 
sooner get out of the way of cattle. 

But where you plant trees that have been two 
or three years headed down in the nursery, it is 
necessary to cut out any cross shoots, or where 
two shoots are close together to take away one ; 
for although they might not injure while young, 
they would when they grew old, and the tree not 
grow so handsome, 

I must add another reason for not cutting 
down the heads of fresh planted standard apples: 
I have often seen them when they have been cut 
down, instead of making fine young heads, throw 
out short shoots two or three inches long, and 
those (if they are good bearers) formed into 
bloom, which stagnates the tree, and seldom 
forms a good head after. 

Standard trees planted, and their heads left 
in this state, will require no pruning till the 
trees get large and too full of wood, except an 
occasional cross branch, and taking out all dead 
pieces. 

But old trees should occasionally be thinned 

c 5 



34 



PRUNING OF 



TRAINED 



APPLES. 



where they grow too thick of wood, and this 
should be performed with a saw where the 
branches are large, but be sure to saw them off 
without splitting or injuring the bark, and as 
the saw will leave it rough, the part where it has 
been sawed off should be made smooth with a 
sharp knife, otherwise it will not heal so well or 
so soon. 

PRUNING OF TRAINED APPLES. 

Par. 14. — As trained apples are not so much 
in request since the introduction of common 
Dwarfs, and as the pruning of them has been 
so fully explained, it is necessary only to state 
after the tree has been properly trained in the 
nursery, the pruning it will require, will be si- 
milar to the pruning and management of dwarf 
apples, in paragraph the twelfth. 

There is one great benefit arising from trained 
apples; while young the wind has not the power 
of shaking them about so much, and consequently 
the fruit is not so likely to fall: likewise, if they 
have no other trees to shade them, the fruit is 
sure to receive the benefit of the sun. 



PRUNING OF TRAINED APPLES. 



35 



The season I should recommend for pruning 
apples, is from the middle of January till the 
middle of March; some will prune through 
April, and so late as May ; but my opinion is by 
causing the sap to flow, and the tree to bleed 
too freely when the bloom is tender, often causes 
the fruit not to set well. 

Another thing should be observed in pruning 
of dwarf and trained apple trees: there are 
some sorts which bear principally at the end of 
the young shoots; where that is the case, you 
should always leave plenty of the young one 
year shoots; for want of a knowledge of this 
many fail in their crops on trained trees, for if 
the bloom is cut off we cannot have fruit ; this 
is easily discovered by leaving those sorts you 
are unacquainted with till March, before you 
prune them, you will then see where they shew 
their bloom, and the tree may be kept free, by 
taking away old wood instead of young, 

BUDDING OF APPLES. 

Par. 15, — Budding of apples some years back, 
was much more practised than at the present 



36 



BUDDING OF APPLES. 



day, although in some nurseries in the country, 
it is still continued, and, of course they think 
it best : but I will here give my reasons for not 
approving of the general practice of budding 

apples. 

The argument of those who approve of bud- 
ding apples is, they generally grow taller for 
standards the first summer, there being but one 
shoot for the stock to support: granted; but 
this is often the cause of crooked, weak, stem- 
med trees, for having run up so tall, they fre- 
quently throw out shoots at the top the following 
summer, which are often too heavy for the stem 
to support, and they consequently bend down and 
grow crooked. 

Another very great objection to budding 
apples is the canker, for buds are generally 
untied late in summer, and there is naturally a 
wound in the stock, which the most scientific 
budder cannot prevent ; and this is the season 
of the year, of all others the most dangerous, 
for the insect is fond of a wound where they can 
enter for their winter quarters, and that spot of 



DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING. 



37 



all others, is the most dangerous in the tree for the 
canker to take place. 

But although I do not recommend it gene- 
rally? sometimes it is necessary : for if you wish 
to make the most of a cutting, or it might 
happen you would be able to get a cutting of 
some favourite sort at the budding season, and 
could not at the grafting season. I will, there- 
fore, give as clear a description of budding, as 
can be given in writing, which will serve not 
only for budding apples, but all other fruits. 

DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING. 

'Par. 16.— Budding is an art which requires 
long practice, and close attention, to arrive at 
perfection in ; indeed most authors have said, it 
is impossible to convey an accurate idea to the 
reader; but I will endeavour to state it so plain, 
that I think with attention it may be of service. 

The budding of apples is what we now have 
before us ; in the first place, it is necessary to 
attend to the state of the stocks you intend to 
bud, for some seasons are much earlier than 
others, and some soils will cause the stocks? 



38 



DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING. 



either Crabs or Paradise, to grow much longer 
than others; and in budding of all kinds of fruit 
trees, it is very necessary to bud them before the 
stocks have stopped growing. 

Generally the best time for apples, is late in 
August, but this must entirely depend on the 
state of the stocks, or trees, which you intend 
to bud. 

The stocks being ready, you should endea- 
vour to get your cuttings (which must be of 
the same summer's growth) as firm and ripe 
as you can, and having prepared some strong 
new matting for the purpose, you proceed to 
budding. 

After cutting the leaves off the cutting or 
scion, cut off the top likewise, as low down as 
it is soft and too green, then with your budding 
knife which must have a very keen edge, take 
off the top bud from the scion, commencing 
with your knife about an inch below the bud, 
then hold the bud firm betwen your thumb and 
finger, and take out the piece of wood the re- 
verse way of the bud, leaving nothing but the 
rind, this must be done clean without leaving it 



DESCRIPTION OF BUDDING, 39 

any way ragged ; you then look, (and in this 
it is necessary to be very particular.) to see if 
taking out the wood has injured the bud, which 
it will do in various ways; sometimes it will draw 
all the centre of the bud out, which renders the 
bud of no use whatever ; sometimes it will leave 
the bud very hollow ; in that case they are 
doubtful ; therefore if you are not short of cut- 
tings, do not make use of one bud unless it is 
quite plump and level with the inside rind, and 
then you may almost make a certainty of its 
growing; on the contrary, you cannot depend 
on them, for they will often keep alive to all 
appearance even through the winter, but will 
not shoot in spring ; in fact, this is one of the 
most nice points in budding ; having your bud 
ready, you next proceed to open the incision in 
the stock or tree ; the incision is made nearly 
in the form of a letter T, cutting through the 
rind first at the top about half way round the 
stock, then commencing with your knife about 
two inches lower down, draw your knife up to 
the cut at the top, and before you take your 
knife out, gently open the rind on one side. 



40 



UNTYING OF BUDS* 



which will let in the handle of your budding 
knife, then open the incision so that it will let 
in the bud to the bottom, and cut off what may 
remain too long for the incision; tie the bud 
tight round with some strong matting, observing 
that you do not let the bass go at all over the 
bud, for that is sure death ; give it a tight hitch 
to fasten off and the budding is finished. 

UNTYING OF BUDS. 

Par. 17. — When the stocks or trees have 
been budded about six weeks, it is necessary to 
untie the bass from them ; it is the practice of 
some to tie them again, but this is qnite unne- 
cessary, except where they have been budded in 
very free growing young wood, but even then if 
the bass is not tied too tight, they need not be> 
or at least very seldom, tied again. 

HEADING DOWN STOCKS WHICH ARE BUDDED. 

Par. 18. — The heading down of stocks or 
trees which have been budded is the next pro- 
cess ; they should be cut off about four inches 
above the bud ; this may be done any time after 



TYING A&D SUCKERING OF BUDS, 41 



Christmas, but about the end of February is a 
good time ; they are not so well to be left much 
later in the season, otherwise the bud is apt to 
go blind, through the sap rising more up into 
the head of the stock or tree. 

TYING AND SUCKERING OF BUDS. 

Par. 19. — The next thing is the tying and 
suckering of buds; it is necessary when the 
suckers shoot out from the stocks to cut them 
clean off, in order to give the bud all the encou- 
ragement you can ; and when the bud has grown 
four or five inches long, tie it gently up to the 
piebe of the stock which is left above the bud 5 
but be sure to leave a sufficient space between 
the bud and the stock for the bud to swell, after 
this you have no further trouble with them, ex- 
cept keeping them free from suckers till they 
want snagging, for which see snagging, Para- 
graph 4. 

OBSERVATIONS BEFORE THE EXPLANATORY 
LIST OF SORTS. 

Par. 20. — Having given all the necessary in- 



42 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 



formation for the cultivation, pruning, and ge- 
neral management of apple trees, I shall next 
furnish the reader with an explanatory list of 
sorts, giving each their true character. 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 

TABLE OR. DESSERT APPLES. 

Par. 21. — Ribston Pippin; this is one of the 
most celebrated apples in cultivation ; it is ripe 
in October, and in the months of November 
and December ; it is considered by most superior 
in flavour to any apple at that season ; its bloom 
is simple and by no means showy for the shrub- 
bery ; it is a general bearer, but wijl not keep 
late, for if the fruit does not rot, it will lose its 
juices and become insipid. It will also make 
excellent sauce, but it is generally recommended 
as one of the best table apples. 

(22.) — Court of Wyck Pippin; this is a very 
handsome small table apple; it is said to be a 
seedling from the old golden pippin : it ripens 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 43 

in October, is a good bearer, and will keep 
through the winter. 

(23.) — Scarlet Nonpareil; this is a very 
choice table apple, in high perfection at Christ- 
mas, at which season it is not excelled by any 
apple for beauty and flavour ; it is rather larger 
than the old nonpareil, of very handsome form, 
and if the fruit stands open to the sun, it will 
turn of a beautiful scarlet ; it produces a prodi- 
gious quantity of bloom, and generally bears 
well. 

(24.) — Old Nonpareil; this is an apple too 
well known to require much explanation or re- 
commendation ; it is a fine keeping table fruitc 

(25.) — Downton Pippin; this is one of the 
productions of Mr. Knight, of Downton Castle, 
and President of the Horticultural Society ; 
it is a very handsome small yellow apple, very 
full of juice, of rather a tart flavour; it is a 
great bearer, and in high perfection in the 
autumn. 

(26.) — Sykehouse; this is a small firm table 
apple of a russet colour, handsome form, and 



44 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 



equal, from Christmas till May, to the old non- 
pareil ; it is a very great bearer. 

We have not a better keeping table apple in 
England. 

(27.) — Yellow Ingestry Pippin ; this is a very 
handsome small yellow table fruit, a good bearer, 
and is in perfection about October. 

(28.) — Hicks Fancy ; this is a most delicious 
dessert apple, of small size, a very great bearer, 
and will keep ; but it is best before Christmas. 

(29.) — Old Golden Pippin ; this apple as a 
table fruit, is decidedly one of the best in this 
country; although there are many apples far 
superior to it in flavour before Christmas : it is 
not excelled by any after, and consequently at a 
season when most of our finest table apples are 
gone by. I cannot pass over this fruit without 
making a few observations, knowing an impres- 
sion has been made on some gentlemen, that 
the Golden Pippin is entirely wearing out, and 
therefore useless to cultivate it ; in this I must 
beg leave to differ: from my great practice 
among apples, I am satisfied they are to be kept 
in as flourishing a state as ever they were, for 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 45 

the cause of its early decay is entirely from the 
canker, which is the case with most sorts of 
weak growth, but the Golden Pippin is one of 
the insect's greatest favourites : therefore by 
keeping the body of the trees sound, you may 
depend on your Golden Pippins flourishing as 
well as ever. 

(30.) — Franklin's Golden Pippin ; this is a 
very good juicy table apple, a good bearer 
and will keep, it is in high perfection in No- 
vember. 

(31.) — Esopus Spitzenberg Apple; this apple 
is said to be an American, and was first raised 
in Albany : it requires the protection of a wall: 
it is large, handsome, and of an exquisite fla- 
vour. 

(32.) — Scarlet Pearmain ; this is a handsome 
table apple of a fine scarlet colour, full of fine 
sweet juice, and a great bearer; ripens early in 
the autumn, and will keep through the winter. 

(33.) — Royal Pearmain ; this apple is very 
handsomely formed, of rather a russet red co- 
lour, and a good size for the table, the flavour 
.is very fine, and it is generally a good bearer ; 



46 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 

it ripens in September, but soon becomes mealy 
after it is gathered. 

(34.) — Margaret Apple; this a good summer 
apple of a red colour, with a little russet to- 
wards the eye ; it is a good bearer and ripens in 
August. 

(35.) — Kirke's Duchess of Oldenburgh ; this 
is a table apple of a tolerable size ; it is rather 
a flat form ; the ground of the fruit when ripe 
is a greenish yellow, beautifully pencilled with 
pink and red; it is full of fine sweet juice, and 
may be fairly called one of our best summer 
table apples. 

(36.) — Kirke's Golden Reinet ; this is a very 
handsome table apple of a golden russet colour, 
and a fine red next the sun ; the flavour is very 
fine ; it ripens about October, and is good till 
after Christmas. 

(37.) — King of the Pippins; this apple ripens 
late in the summer, and to eat it from the tree 
it is equal in flavour to any at that season ; but 
a few days after it is gathered it looses its fla- 
vour, or at least is very materially diminished. 

(38.) — Wellington Apple; this is a very. 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 



47 



handsome keeping table fruit, and deserves 
to be brought into general cultivation ; the 
fruit is of a pale green ground, of a beautiful 
pale red or rather pink next the sun, and is a 
great addition to the desserts at, and after, 
Christmas. 

(39.) — Kerry Pippin ; this is a much admired 
summer table apple, and is a good fearer. 

(40.) — Wheeler's Russet ; this apple, as a 
table fruit, deserves the highest character; it is 
rather larger than the old nonpareil, much like 
it in appearance and flavour; it is a great bearer, 
and will keep till May. 

(41.) — Powell's Russet is a most excellent 
table apple ; it is smaller than Wheeler's, very 
fine flavour, a great bearer, and will keep through 
the winter. 

(42.) — Devonshire Whitesour ; this is a very 
early summer table apple, of a whitish yellow 
colour ; it has fine melting flesh, with very rich 
juice; it is a good bearer, and is greatly ad- 
mired. 

(43.) — Margell is a table apple, in flavour 
much like the Ribston Pippin, but does not 



48 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 



grow so large ; it is a great bearer, and will 
keep till spring. 

(44.) — Christy's Pippin ; this is an apple not 
much known at present; it is one of the best 
table apples among the new varieties ; in form 
much like the Nonsuch, firm and juicy, of a 
greenish colour, fine flavoured, is a very great 
bearer, and will keep through the winter. 

APPLES EOR CULINARY PURPOSES. 

Par. 45. — Beauty of Kent ; this is one of the 
largest apples in cultivation ; it is a most ex- 
cellent apple for sauce, looks very handsome on 
the trees, is a great bearer, and will keep. 

(46.) — Kirke's Emperor Alexander ; this is a 
fine sauce apple, and is decidedly the most beau- 
tiful apple grown. I have known them measure 
sixteen inches round ; and although they grow 
so large, they seldom fall from the trees if sound ; 
it is a good bearer, ripe late in October, and will 
keep till Christmas. 

(47.) — Keswick Codlin is a large yellow ap- 
ple, and one of the greatest bearers we have. 
This is well adapted for small gardens, for it is 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 49 



a long time before it gets large through its great 
bearing ; it ripens in September, but will not 
keep long after they are gathered. 

(48.) — Luecumb's Seedling, is a great bearer, 
of a greenish yellow striped with red, will grow- 
large; it is a very good sauce apple, and will 
keep through the winter. 

(49.) — Northern Greening; this is a most 
desirable apple to plant, it is a firm green fruit, 
a very great bearer, and will keep sound till 
spring. 

(50.) — Kirke's Scarlet Admirable; this is a 
very fine large sauce apple, of a beautiful scarlet 
next 1 the sun; is generally a good bearer, and 
will keep. 

(51.) — Royal Russet; this is a well-known 
good keeping sauce apple. 

(52.) — Cockagee; this apple, which is so ce- 
lebrated for cider, I have merely recommended 
for kitchen use, on account of its fine acid for 
being mixed with other apples in the tart or 
pudding — it answers the purpose of the Quince. 

(53.) — Shepherd's Newington; this is a fine 
large juicy sauce apple, and is a great bearer. 

D 



50 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 



(54.) — Striped Holland Pippin ; this would 
be very handsome in the shrubbery, for the 
bloom which comes out early is extremely beau- 
tiful ; it is a good bearer and a very good apple. 

(55.) — Dutch Codlin ; although I cannot re- 
commend this as a general bearer, the fruit is so 
fine, and the bloom so beautiful, it deserves a 
place amongst a collection. 

(56.) — Kentish Codlin; this is a very good 
bearer, not so large as the Dutch Codlin, but is 
a very good sauce apple. 

(57.) — Norfolk Storing ; this apple will keep 
well through the winter, and is good for sauce 
when most others are gone by ; it is generally a 
good bearer. 

(58.) — Norfolk Beefin ; this is a well-known 
long keeping apple, of a dullish red colour, it is 
famed for baking, and is good for all culinary 
purposes. This apple will keep good till Au- 
gust, and is a general bearer. 

(59.) — Lemon Pippin ; this is a very good 
sauce apple, of a yellow colour, is a good bearer, 
and will keep till March. 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 51 

(60.) — Loan's Pearmain, is an excellent sauce 
apple, is a good bearer, and will keep. 

APPLES FOR DESSERT OR CULINARY PURPOSES. 

Par. 61. — Hawthorne D^an; this apple, for 
the beauty of its bloom, the beauty of its fruit, 
its fine flavour when in season, together with 
its wonderful bearing, surpasses every apple now 
in cultivation : if the trees stand where they can 
have the benefit of the sun, the fruit will look 
as handsome as a beautiful peach ; it is hand- 
somely formed, of a whitish yellow ground, and 
a brilliant pink next the sun ; they are very full 
of juice, and the flavour universally admired 
while in season; it is generally in perfection 
through the month of September, although they 
are used much earlier, and till the end of Octo- 
ber. If this apple would keep, there would not 
be such an apple in cultivation, for many of them 
grow large for kitchen purposes, while the small 
ones produce a beautiful and delicious fruit for 
the dessert, and it is thought by many it would • 
make fine cider : but to have this fruit hand- 
some it is absolutely necessary to plant the trees 

2 D 



52 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 

where the fruit will receive the sun, otherwise 
it will be of a pale colour. I know of no plant 
or shrub in cultivation that would adorn the 
shrubbery more than this tree ; for the bloom is 
extremely handsome in the spring, and in the 
summer the fruit would not be passed without 
being admired. 

(62.) — Hertfordshire Pearmain; this is an 
exceedingly fine apple for winter, it is rather of 
a red russet colour, the small ones are handsome 
for the table, having a very fine flavour; the 
large ones are most excellent for kitchen pur- 
poses. 

(63.) — Kirke's Lord Nelson; this apple is 
one of Mr. Kirke's finest productions, it is. a 
great bearer, and very handsome ; good for table 
or sauce, is in perfection in October, and will 
keep till spring. 

(64.) — French Crab, called by some the ever- 
lasting pippin ; this is a very firm green apple, 
it is good for culinary purposes through winter, 
and in spring is a very fine table fruit ; it will 
keep good till the early summer apples come in, 
and may be considered one of the most useful 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 



53 



apples in cultivation : it might be grown in the 
country to very great advantage for the London 
markets, for they are so firm they will not bruise 
like other apples, and in the spring they always 
fetch a great price. 

65. — Nonsuch ; this well-known apple de- 
serves cultivation, it is a great bearer, and very 
good for kitchen purposes ; and for those who 
are fond of a sharp juicy apple, they will do 
for the dessert ; it ripens late in summer, but 
will not retain it flavour long after it is ga 
thered. 

(66.) — Norfolk Paradise ; this is a handsome 
apple for table, and very good for sauce ; it will 
keep through the winter. 

(67.) — Woodstock, or Blenheim Pippin ; this 
apple was produced at Woodstock, the seat of 
the I)uke of Marlborough; it is a most excellent 
apple for all purposes ; it ripens in October, and 
will keep good some time. 

(68.) — Mank's Codlin ; this is one of the 
greatest bearers we have ; the fruit is hand- 
somely formed, of a pale yellow colour, and 
where the sun can get at them they turn of a 



54 EXPLANATORY LIST OF SORTS. 

beautiful pale pink ; it is full of fine rich juice, 
and good for all purposes ; the bloom is not ex- 
celled by any ; it is nearly as handsome as a 
rose ; it is further to be recommended to plant 
as dwarfs in the shrubbery, for its great bloom- 
ing and bearing prevents its growing so large as 
many sorts ; it is in perfection about September, 
but will not keep lon^. 

(66.) — Pile's Russet; this is an old, well- 
known excellent keeping apple, and good for all 
purposes. 

(70.) — Braddick's Nonpareil ; this apple, 
which is rather new and not much known, de- 
serves to be recommended ; it partakes much of 
the old nonpareil in flavour, but is an earlier ap- 
ple : it is nearly of a russet colour, tine melting 
flesh, and full of rich juice ; some of them grow 
a tolerable size, which will do for culinar\% pur- 
poses, and the small ones afford a fine dessert : 
it is in perfection about November, and will keep 
and retain its juices ; it is a great bearer. 

OBSERVATIONS. 

Par. 71. — I have now furnished my readers 



OBSERVATIONS. 



55 



with a collection of the best sorts of apples now 
in cultivation, for the different purposes as de- 
scribed in the character of each apple. Although 
there are more very good apples, there are a 
great many not worth recommending ; indeed 
there are some I could mention superior to some 
of those in the list, but what a disappointment 
it is when your crops continually fail ! Some 
may say. why leave out such and such a sort,, 
where it may probably be a favourite ? but there 
is such a confusion in the names of apples, that 
it is likely to be in this list under another name, 
for there are several among them I know to have 
three or four different names : but these are pro- 
perly named as known by the Horticultural So- 
ciety, and the principal nurserymen round Lon- 
don. 

Some may think, if they see a tree full of fruit 
it must be a good bearer, but I have known 
some of the most shy bearers (by chance) pro- 
duce a fine crop ; it is therefore necessary to 
watch its general bearing : such fruits as I have 
described here I have thoroughly tried, and cho- 
sen them from a very large collection ; I can 



56 



OBSERVATIONS. 



therefore recommend them with confidence. I 
should also wish it to be understood, that fruit 
will not ripen at the same time every year ; nei- 
ther will apples keep so well same seasons as 
others. I have mentioned the time of ripening 
as that of our usual summers. 

To confuse the reader with an explanatory 
list of other sorts for the above purposes, would 
be useless, and render it difficult to choose ; but 
as there are other very good apples, and every 
one have their favourites, I will give an alpha- 
betical list of names of those sorts now generally 
cultivated. 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES. 

NOW IN GENERAL CULTIVATION. 

Those marked with an asterisk (*) are described 
in the explanatory list. 

Par. 72.— 

Aromatic Russet Berecourt Pippin 

Ashmead's Kernel *Braddick's Nonpareil 

*Beauty of Kent Boatswain's Pippin 

Beauty of Wilts Biggs' Nonsuch 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APPLES. 57 



Barcelona Pearmain 


Team's Pippin 


Benwell's Pearmain 


Formuse Apple 


Bedfordshire Foundling 


Fall Pippin 


Claggate Pearmain 


♦Golden Pippin 


*Court of Wyek Pippin 


♦Golden Rennet 


Cray Pippin 


Gibbon's Russet 


Crofton Apple 


Golden Russet 


Cockle Pippin 


Gough Apple 


Costard Apple 


Grange Apple 


♦Cockagee 


Gray Leadington 


♦Cristy's Pippin 


Golden Harvey or Brandy 


Carlisle Codlin 


Apple 


Cornish Aromatic 


General Wolf 


Custard Apple 


♦Hawthorne Dean 


Cobham Apple 


♦Hertfordshire Pearmain 


♦Downton Pippin 


♦Hick's Fancy. 


♦Dutch Codlin 


Hughes' Golden Pippin 


*Duchess of Oldenburg 


Holland Pippin 


♦Devonshire Whitesour 


Hall Door 


Duke of Beaufort's Pippin 


Hunt's Royal Red 


*Ernperor Alexander 


Jubilee Pippin 


Embroidered Pippin 


♦Keswick Codlin 


*Esopus Spitzenberg Apple 


Kirke's Golden Pippin 


Flower of Kent 


Kirke's Incomparable 


♦Franklin's Golden Pippin 


♦King of the Pippins 


French Crab 


♦Kerry Pippin 


Foxley Pippin 


♦Kirke's Lord Nelson 


Farleigh Pippin 


♦Kentish Codlin 




D 5 



\ 

58 ALPHABETICAL 



LIST OF APPLES. 



Kentish Fillbasket 
•Luccomb's Seedling 
*Lemon Pippin 
*Loans' Pearmain 
Lewis' Gilly Flower 
*Manks Codlin or Irish 

Pitcher 
•Margaret Apple 
Marmalade Pippin 
*Margil 
Minchin Crab 
Memmel Pippin 
*Norfold Storing 
•Norfolk Beefin 
•Norfolk Paradise 
•Nonpareil 
New Town Pippin 
•Northern Greening 
•Nonsuch 
Oslin 

Orange Pippin 

Ord Apple 

Potter's Apple 

Pigeon's Heart or Arabian 

Apple 
Pedley's Pippin 
*Piles Russet 



Peach Apple 
Pomgree 
•Powell's Russet 
•Pomme de Violet 
Quince Apple 
•Ribston Pippin 
•Royal Pearmain 
Royal Corpendue 
Red Quarentine 
•Royal Russet 
Ridding's Nonpareil 
Red Ingestry Pippin 
Red Juneting 
•Scarlet Nonpareil 
•Sykehouse 
Scarlet Crab 
Siberian Crab 
Siberian Harvey- 
Sops of Wine 
Sellswood Rennet 
Scarlet Pearmain 
Scarlet Queening 
Southampton Pippin 
•Scarlet Admirable 
•Shepherd's Newington 
Stubbard Apple 
•Striped Holland Pippin 



CIDER APPLES. 



Spring Grove Codlin 
' Sandy's Russet 
Stony Royd Pippin 
Transparent Crab 

* Woodstock or Blenheim 

Pippin 

* White Juneting 

* Wellington Apple 



59 

Wormsley Pippin 
*Wheeler's Russet 
Winter Pearmain 
Wyken Apple 
White Lilly 
Yorkshire Greening 
* Yellow Ingestry Pippin 



CIDER APPLES. 

Par. 73. — As it is now become a question 
whether our old cider fruits are not going to decay 
from old age, it is necessary to say something on 
the subject. 

I 'have no doubt but many, where they have 
not had sufficient practice, will differ with me, 
but having for many years had thousands, and 
tens of thousands, continually under my imme- 
diate care and notice, it has given me an oppor- 
tunity of becoming thoroughly acquainted with 
the constitution of the apple tree ; and I am con- 
fident it is nothing but bad management and ill 
treatment which is the cause of the general 
decay of our apple trees, and principally, from 
want of proper attention to the canker. This is 



60 



NEW CIDER APPLES. 



quite evident from all our new sorts becoming 
affected by it, as well as the Golden Pippin, and 
our other fine old cider fruits. To conclude, I 
am convinced so long as English oak is known to 
flourish in England, so long by proper manage- 
ment, may our Golden Pippins be known to 
flourish, as well as they did fifty years back ; I 
will therefore give a list of the esteemed old 
sorts, with a list of others which are now gene- 
rally approved of for cider. 



Old Golden Pippin 
Fox Whelp 

Herefordshire Redstreak 
Orange Pippin 
Red Musk 
Hagloe Crab 



Wood Cock 
Forest Stire 
Old Queening 
Bennet Apple 
Friar 

Yellow Elliott. 



NEW 

Court of Wyck Pippin 
Foxley Apple 
Downton Pippin 
Stead's Kernel 
Cockagee 



, APPLES. 

Kirke's Lord Nelson 

Kirke's Seedling Golden 

Pippin 
Franklin's Golden Pippin 
Kirke's Golden Rennet 



If I were going to plant apples, purposely for 



NEW CIDER APPLES. 



6i 



cider, I should confine myself to a few sorts 
for if we have those sorts which are good, and 
good bearers, what can we wish more ? I should 
therefore recommend the following : — 

Court of Wyck Pippin 4 Kirke's Lord Nelson 
Foxley Apple Kirke's Seedling Golden 

Downton Pippin Pippin 
Cockagee Franklin's Golden Pippin 

The most favourite cider apple now in culti- 
vation, is the cockagee ; I am informed by some 
of our principal cider merchants it is decidedly 
the best for bottling, and will bring the great- 
est price ; therefore, as this apple is a good 
bearer, and a free grower, it would be the most 
profitable of any to plant for cider. 

Kirke's Lord Nelson, is not much known at 
present as a cider fruit, but this apple, which is 
a good bearer, produces a large quantity of fine 
astringent saccharine juice, and makes a most 
excellent cider to drink from the cask. 

List of apples from one to twelve sorts recom- 
mended for small gardens, 



62 ?HE MODE OF PRODUCING 



Par. 74.— 

1 Hawthorne Dean 

2 Ribston Pippin 

3 Kirke's Lord Nelson 

4 Cristy's Pippin 

5 Beauty of Kent 

6 Sykehouse 



7 Manks Codlin 

8 Scarlet Nonpareil 

9 Scarlet Pearmain 

10 Hick's Fancy 

11 Woodstock Pippin 

12 Court of Wyck Pippin 



The above are all described in the explana- 
tory list, where the different seasons of ripen- 
ing, with the character of the apples, may be 
found. 



THE MODE OF PRODUCING NEW KINDS OF 
APPLES. 

Par. 75.— It is a well known fact, not only 
among botanists, but all those who have paid at- 
tention to the culture of the vegetable tribe, that 
by improper management their sorts will dege- 
nerate ; and this is caused, by such sorts being 
planted too near together, by which means they 
unite with each other. 

If you plant cabbages and potatoes, or cucum- 
bers and turnips near each other, or anything of 
a different nature^ they will not injure ; but if 



NEW KINDS OF APPLES. 



63 



you plant cabbage and cauliflower, or savoy, or 
anything of a similar nature, it will cause the 
most perfect sort to degenerate, if they are al- 
lowed to bloom together. The same is the case 
with apples ; for, if various sorts are in the same 
garden blooming near each other, although you 
might save your seed from what appeared a very 
fine apple, you would not judge which was the 
male parent : in order to elucidate this particu- 
lar, I will endeavour to state as plainly as pos- 
sible, the nature of the apple from its first forma- 
tion, till it becomes perfect, and produces the ripe 
pi{) or seed. 

In the first place, when the bloom is quite 
open, the principal attraction is the leaves of the 
bloom, five in number ; that which is called the 
corolla ; below the flower, where the small green 
apple is formed, which continues to grow larger 
till it comes to perfection, this is called the flower 
cup or calyx ; in the centre of the cup you see 
small yellow things, which are called stiles, and 
below the stiles are to be seen several other very 
small things with round heads like pins, which 
are called stamens, and these produce a fine dust 



64 



THE MODE OF PRODUCING 



called the Farina or Pollen, which is collected by 
the bees and other insects, and which the former 
so industriously collect and lay up for their 
young, &c. 

Various have been the opinions on this sub- 
ject, but it is now become conclusive, that the 
bloom becomes impregnated with other varie- 
ties, through the bees and other insects; indeed, 
most insects after they become winged, are 
fond of the sweets they can collect from flowers ; 
and although we have not so just an idea of 
many insects as we have of bees, yet I have no 
doubt many of them take part in crossing the 
fruits and vegetables : but the bees may be seen 
flying to a great number of different flowers and 
trees, before they have a sufficient load to take 
home to their hive, and by thus flying from bloom 
to bloom, and tree to tree, they occasionally drop 
part of the Pollen into another flower, which 
causes it to be impregnated with the nature of 
the fruit or vegetable from which it was collected : 
it therefore shows the necessity, if w r e wish to 
produce a new variety of any peculiar quality, to 
plant the trees where they will not be within a 



NEW KINDS OF APPLES. 



65 



considerable distance of any other ; for instance, 
suppose you wish to raise a new keeping apple, it 
will be necessary to choose two good keeping 
apples, and if one were very sour, and the other 
sweet, it will have a great chance of combining 
these two qualities, which are quite necessary to 
constitute a good apple : or if you have a favou- 
rite early apple, and would wish to get one 
nearly like it that it would keep, then plant by 
it a good keeping apple, and you will have a 
chance of getting one nearly like it, and probably 
much better. 

If your seedlings are at all strong, the best 
method, and most quick to prove them, is, the 
following spring after they have come up, to 
graft them on young fruit-bearing trees ; it will 
bring them into bearing early, and by so doing, 
you ^likewise have an opportunity of noticing 
which are likely to become good bearers. 

OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIFFERENT MODES OF 
GRAFTING. 

Par. 76. — Various are the opinions respecting 
the influence the stock will have on the scion, 



66 



OBSERVATIONS 0!N THE 



or graft : many persons (for want of sufficient 
practice) to this day, suppose the stock will 
affect the scion, and consequently the fruit pro- 
duced from the tree grafted on a stock whose 
fruit is different ; but during ray practice I 
never have known in any instance, the fruit to 
become altered through the stock it was grafted 
on : in order to illustrate this fact as clearly as 
possible, I will give my general opinion on the 
subject. 

It is necessary sometimes to convey our ideas 
(particularly in writing, where it is subject 
to every criticism) as plainly as possible ; I 
shall therefore commence from the seed of the 
stock. 

In the first place, when the seed first spears, 
(say the Crab,) its spear grows downwards, (the 
same by a common bean or pea,) perhaps two 
inches before we see the green seed leaf above 
ground, this shews that the fund of vegetable 
matter above ground, must be filtered through 
the root, for without the root the tree cannot 
grow, but the root might exist for some time, 
although the head was cut down ; I am there- 



DIFFERENT MODES OF GRAFTING. 67 

fore most decidedly of opinion, that the stock in 
some degree partakes of the nature of the scion 
which is grafted on it ; for if we look at the 
nature and constitution of a tree, and from prac- 
tice mark its general progress, there cannot be 
an existing doubt, that the roots, veins, fibres, or 
whatever they may be called, which strike from 
the scion into the stock, must take root and run 
downwards, and that to the very extremity 
where the sap flows ; this I am further convinced 
of by putting the graft on the centre of the 
stock instead of the side, for you always find 
them make a considerably better growth, and 
the trees are more durable ; therefore, if the 
graft sends its roots down to the very extremi- 
ties of the roots of the stock, it either becomes 
impregnated, it must be the stock and not the 
scion. 

The same by budding; if nature had so 
ordered it, that the stock should have had any 
influence on grafting, much more must it have 
had on budding, where there is nothing left but 
the mere rind ; yet this small bud has been in 
no instance ever known to degenerate on account 
of the stock, if budded on a stock it was fond of. 



68 



OBSERVATIONS ON THE 



What I mean by a bud being fond of a stock, 
is such stocks as buds and grafts are usually 
worked on: this is one very necessary branch of 
£ nurseryman's profession, when he has a new 
fruit, to endeavour to find out such stock as is 
best suited to its constitution, &c. 

I remember many years back, when quite a 
boy, a common white jasmine which was growing 
against the house, and being fond even from my 
earliest years of trying experiments among trees, 
I took a bud from a striped jasmine, and budded 
a branch of the green ; the bud grew, and what 
shoots put forth below the bud, most of them 
became blotch leaved ; this is a proof the bud or 
graft must have an effect on the 6tock. 

There are other modes of grafting, but which 
are little noticed for fruit trees, except when the 
trees are very large, and as it will not be foreign 
to the present work I will mention them. 

First, rind grafting ; this is principally prac- 
tised on large trees. After cutting off the 
branch of the tree (if with a saw it should be 
made smooth with a knife) cut a slit in the rind, 
about two inches from the top where it was cut 



DIFFERENT MODES OF GRAFTING. 69 

off, open the bark without bruising it, (the handle 
of a budding knife is the best instrument,) then 
cut a slice of your scion the length of the inci- 
sion on the branch, nearly the same as described 
in. whip-grafting ; run the scion down between 
the rind and the wood, placing the wood of the 
scion against the wood of the stock, then bind 
it tight round with strong matting, and put clay 
round it the same as directed in whip-grafting ; 
when this method of grafting was more in prac- 
tice, many would make a shoulder in the scion, 
to rest it on the shoulder of the stock ; but this 
I think unnecessary, as the two woods would not 
gencler without the bark, and there would be no 
bark on the crown of the branch or stock : three 
or four scions may be put on one large crown ; 
but this method of grafting is by no means to be 
recommended, for the winds are so apt to blow 
them out, and if the bodies of the trees were 
sound and worth grafting, and the branches were 
too strong for whip-grafting, it would be far 
better to cut them down nearly to the stem of 
the tree, and the following year they would 
throw out fine young wood for whip-grafting, and 



70 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 

rather than lose, you would save time by this 
practice ; I have whip-grafted with success, 
branches six and eight inches in circumference. 

Grafting by approach, commonly called 
enarching ; this method is principally practised 
among exotics, consequently the fruit grower 
will not feel interested in its detail, particularly 
the apple grower, it being by no means neces- 
sary ; this practice is principally adopted where 
the scion and stocks will not unite freely by whip- 
grafting. 



CHAPTER TI. 



On Pears, Plums, Cherries, Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, 
Grape Vines, fyc. fyc. 

ON PEARS. 

Par 77. — What has already been said on the 
culture of apples, will generally apply to pears ; 
the budding, graftings pruning, and general 
management being the same, excepting that they 
are worked on different stocks. The stock which 
is generally used, (and which is decidedly the 
best for standard pear trees,) is raised from the 
seed of the small wild pear, which like the true 
crab is more durable than those grown from 
other pears, It has many years been the prac- 
tice in France, and several parts of the Con- 



72 



ON PEARS. 



tinent, to graft pears on quince stocks, and in 
this country they have been found to answer 
extremely well as dwarfs, for they come into 
bearing much earlier than those on the pear 
stock, and the fruit exceedingly fine, and by 
keeping them spurred like dwarf apple trees, 
they may be kept within any compass you wish, 
as they do not grow near so strong as those on 
the pear stock. 

Many sorts of pears, which are generally 
grown against walls, have got the name of bad 
bearers through bad pruning, it being a general 
method to spur them all indiscriminately ; at the 
same time, some sorts scarcely ever bloom, ex- 
cept at the extremities of the young shoots, 
therefore, if they are removed it is impossible 
to have fruit. 

This may be easily remedied, when you have 
discovered which sorts bear at the ends of the 
shoot, by leaving a sufficient quantity of young 
wood for that purpose. 

The confusion in the names of pears is quite 
equal to the apples ; I shall therefore confine 
myself in the explanatory list of pears which 



LIST OF PEARS. 



7.3 



follows, to such sorts as are known to be good ; 
and such as are sufficient for all purposes, 

EXPLANATORY LIST OF PEARS. 

Par. 78. — 1. Green Chisel ; this is a small 
green pear, very full of juice, and is remarkably 
sweet ; it will ripen in early seasons in July. 

2. Present de Malines; this pear is suited 
either for the wall or standard ; in form much 
like Williams's Bonchretien; smooth skin, and 
when ripe of a yellow colour ; the flesh is melt- 
ing, and of a rich musky flavour, it is generally 
a good bearer, and ripens late in the autumn. 

3. Jargonelle ; this a fine early pear, ripe 
about August ; it is of a green colour with a 
little russet next the sun, — it generally bears 
well. 

4. Windsor Pear; this is very fine fruit if 
eaten in proper season ; it is of a green colour, 
but when quite ripe turns yellow ; it should be 
eaten just as it begins to change colour, or it 
will soon become mealy and good for nothing ; 
it ripens about the end of August. 

5. Hambden Burgamot ; this is rather a large 

E 



74 



LIST OF PEARS. 



pear, fine melting flesh and full of juice : it is 
ripe about the end of September. 

6. Autumn Burgatnot ; this pear, which is of 
rather a small size, and handsomely formed, is 
one of the finest flavoured melting pears in cul- 
tivation ; it is perfection in October. 

T. Crasanne ; this is a very fine pear for the 
wall ; the flesh is very tender, and full of fine 
sweet juice; I know not so good a pear in De- 
cember and the beginning of January. 

8. Colmar, is a fine rich sweet pear ; it is best 
adapted for the wall, being a bad bearer as a 
standard; it is in perfection about January. 

9. Virgoleuse ; this is a fine melting pear, full 
of rich juice ; it would be more generally culti- 
vated, but in wet seasons they are very apt to 
crack ; it ripens about the end of December. 

10. St. Germain; this is a very fine melting 
pear, full of juice and a general bearer; an east 
wall will bring the fruit to the greatest perfection ; 
at the same time, they will do well as standards 
in sheltered situations ; they are ready for the 
dessert in December, and I have eaten them in 
March. 



LIST OF PEARS. 



75 



11. Spanish Bonchretien ; this is a good win- 
ter pear, and rather generally admired ; it grows 
large against a wall, and will keep till January. 

12. Brown Beurre ; this is one of the best late 
autumn pears we have ; they do best against a 
wall, where they will grow large, of a brown 
colour, and rather tinged with red ; it is a fine 
juicy rnelter ; and is in perfection through No- 
vember. 

13. Winter Bonchretien ; this is highly es 
teemed for its long keeping ; it is very large, full 
of rich juice, and will keep till June. 

14. Chaumontelle ; this is a fine rich juicy 
pear: is a great bearer either as a dwarf or 
standard, and will come into eating in December. 

15. Poire D'Auch ; this is a handsome green 
pear of excellent flavour ; is a good bearer, and 
I may add, there are but few winter pears 
which equal it; it is fine from December to 
the end of March : — it is best suited for the 
wall. 

16. Citron D'Carlmes ; this is rather a small 
pear of a greenish colour, it is a great bearer, 
and is ripe in July. 

e 2 



76 



LIST OF PEARS. 



17. Williams's Bonchretien ; this is a very 
juicy fine pear; is a good bearer, and ripens 
about September. 

18. Swan's Egg ; this pear is too generally 
known to require much comment ; it is of an 
egg shape, and of a brownish green colour ; it 
is a melting pear, full of very fine flavoured 
juice, and one of the greatest bearers in cultiva- 
tion ; it is ripe in November, and is good at 
Christmas. 

19. Paddington or Tarling ; this pear is much 
esteemed for its long keeping ; it is a handsome 
fruit of a yellowish colour when ripe ; it is good 
from March till the end of May — best suited for 
the wall. 

20. Golden Buerre ; this is a fine fruit, full 
of very fine juice, with melting flesh ; it is in per- 
fection about November, and is a general bearer 
against a wall. 

21. Bishop's Thumb; this pear will do well 
for wall or standards ; it is a long brown fruit, 
large towards the eye, and tapering towards the 
stalk ; it is a great bearer, and is good in Decem- 
ber. 



LIST OF PEARS. 



71 



22. Gansell's Burgamot ; this pear for its rich 
melting flesh, and abundance of fine flavoured 
juice, is decidedly the finest pear of its season ; 
it is rather a shy bearer, but will do best against 
a wall ; I have often seen fine crops on 
standards ; it is in high perfection in Novem- 
ber. 

23. Cardiliac ; this is a large pear generally 
used for baking, and if they can be gathered 
sound late in the Autumn, they will be good for 
that purpose through the winter ; it is a good 
bearer, but being generally cultivated as stand- 
ards, and the fruit growing so large, the high 
winds are very apt to shake them off. 

24. Seckle ; this pear among the new varie- 
ties is very much esteemed; it is of a middling 
size, full of very fine sweet juice, and will bear 
well as standards, — is in eating about October. 

25. Maria Louisa ; this is a very fine pear ; 
the flesh is melting and full of fine juice ; the 
wood is weeping and best adapted for the wall : 
at the present day it is esteemed as highly as any 
of the new varieties, and will no doubt be gene- 
rally cultivated. 



78 



LIST OF PEARS* 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PEARS. 



Those marked with an Asterisk ( # ) are described 
in the explanatory List. 
p ar . 79.„ 



Ashton Town 

* Autumn Burgamot 
Awken 

Beurre De Roi 
Burre de Aremberg 
*Bishop's Thumb 
Bloody 
Britannia 
Brocas Burgamot 

* Brown Beurre 
Burdelieu 
*CardiIiac 
Catherine 
*ChaumontelIe 

* Colmar 
Colmar D. Pache 
*Crasanne 
*Citron de Carhnes- 
Dauphine 

*D'Auch or Poire D'Auch 
Delicis Lardenpont 
Dutch Burgamot 



*Gansell's Burgamo r 
Germain Muscal 
*Golden Beurre 
Gray Beurre 

* Green Chisel 
*Hambden Burgar 
Holland Burgamot 

* J argonelle 
Lammas 

La Pastorelle 
Little Muscat 
*Maria Louisa 
Moorfowl Egg 
Napoleon 
Orange Burgamot 
*Paddington or Tar'i/.. 
*Passe Colmar 
*Poire d'Ananas 
^Present de Marines 
Quos Madam 
Red Muscatelle 
*Seckle 



•Spanish Bonchretien 
*St. Germain 
Summer Burgamot 
*Swan's Egg 
•Urbaniste 

•Uvedel's St. Germain 
*Vanmons 



PLUMS. 

Vergoleuse 
Vine Pear 

Williams' Bonchretien 
•Windsor 

•Winter Bonchretien 
Winter Russelet 



PLUMS. 

Par. 80. — We have not to complain so much 
of the coining of names for plums, as for apples 
and pears : nevertheless, a confused nomencla- 
ture has found its way among them ; however, 
I trust that those I shall mention in the expla- 
natory list will be so clearly described, that every 
person will be satisfied of his competency to de- 
cide on each particular sort when he sees the 
fruit ; and more especially as plums cannot be 
so easily mistaken, because the soils or situation 
will not have the same effect in changing their 
character, as they have on some other fruits. 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF PLUMS. 

Par. 81. — Orleans; this plum is a fine large 



so 



PLUMS. 



rich fruit, it is a great bearer, and good for all 
purposes. 

2. Poupart's plum ; this plum was raised from 
seed, by Mr. James Poupart, near Fulham ; it is 
a very great bearer, of a red colour, and rather 
a long form, it is a tolerable good plum, but 
best suited for culinary purposes. 

3. Blue Perdigron ; this plum is of a very 
dark blue colour, is good flavoured, and ripens in 
August. 

4. White Bonum Magnum, or Egg Plum ; 
this is a very great bearer, the fruit is large, in 
the form of an egg, and very handsome ; it is 
not a bad eating plum, though it is principally 
used for baking ; it ripens in September, 

5. Red Bonum Magnum, or Red Imperial ; 
this is a large red plum in the form of an egg, it 
is a good bearer, but like the white, it is princi- 
pally used for culinary purposes ; it ripens early 
in October. 

6. La Royale ; is a very fine flavoured plum 
of a red colour ; this being rather tender in the 
bloom, it succeeds best against a west wall ; it 
ripens late in September. 



PLUMS. 



81 



7. Downton Imperatrice ; this plum was 
raised by Mr. Knight of Downton, and said to 
be a seedling from the white Magnum Bonum, 
claiming the blue Imperatrice, for its male 
parent ; it is considered a good plum and a tole- 
rable bearer. 

8. Drap d'Or ; this plum is very much admired, 
and is a general bearer, particularly against a 
wall ; it ripens late in September. 

9. Green Gage ; this plum is too well known 
to require much being said of it ; it is decidedly 
the finest plum in cultivation ; it ripens late in 
August. There are several new varieties of 
this plum, but all are very inferior to the ori- 
ginal, or which is generally called, the royal 
Green Gage. 

10. Blue Imperatrice ; this is one of the best 
late plums we have ; it is best adapted for the 
wall, and when perfectly ripe, there is no plum 
of its season equal to it for sweetness ; it ripens 
in October, and I have eaten fine ones from the 
trees in the middle of November. 

1 1 . La Diliciuse ; this a large red American 
plum, said to have received its name from Charles 

e 5 



82 



PLUMS. 



the Tenth. Some English nurserymen have 
named it after their own bent, I believe without 
any legitimate claim to its origin ; it is very pecu- 
liar in its habit, both of its wood and its foliage ; 
the fruit is of a large size, oval purplish colour., 
rich and juicy, and makes an excellent preserve, 
ripens about the end of September or beginning 
of October. 

12. Saint Catharine; this is a good plum and 
is a good bearer ; it is ripe in September, and 
will hang a long time on the tree. 

13, Winesour; this plum is much esteemed 
for preserving ; it is a late plum, and is a good 
bearer. 

14, La Mirabelle ; this is a handsome small 
yellow plum, very full of juice ; it is ripe about 
the middle of September, and is a good bearer. 

15. Coe's Golden Drop; this plum is of a 
line amber colour, much in the form of the white 
egg plum, and of about half the size ; they bear 
well as standards or against the wall, and when 
ripe, the flavour is very fine, and certainly the 
most beautiful plum for the dessert, of its 
season ; it ripens towards the end of September, 



PLUMS. 



83 



16. Kirke's fine Red Plum ; this plum, which 
comes in just after the Orleans, is large, fine 
flavoured, and is a good bearer ; it deserves to 
be brought into general cultivation. 

17. Street's Plum, or St. Lowe ; this plum 5 
which is a great bearer, exceeds all I ever saw 
for size ; it is much in the form of the Orleans, 
but considerably larger and very handsome ; it 
is of a red colour, and generally carries a good 
bloom on the fruit ; they bear well as stand- 
ards, or against the wall ; it ripens about Sep- 
tember. 

18. Blue Gage i this is a most excellent plum 
fot the wall, the flavour is very fine, and it is ge- 
nerally a good bearer. 

19. Early Orleans ; this is rather earlier than 
the old Orleans plum ; it is a good bearer, and 
the fruit is very much admired. 

20. Yellow Orleans ; this is a beautiful trans 
parent plum, nearly as large as the old Orleans, 
good flavoured, and very handsome for the des- 
sert ; it will bear well as a standard ; it ripens 
about September, 



34 



LIST OF PLUMS. 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PLUMS. 



Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described 
in the explanatory . List . 
Par. 82.— 

Mirabelle 
Morocco 
*Orleans Red 
* Early 



Admirable 
Apricot Plum 
Avone 

*Blue Perdigron 
Brignole 
*Blue Gage 
*Blue Imperatrice 
Blue Matchless 

* Catharine 

*Coe's Golden Drop 
*Downton Imperatrice 
*Drap d'Or 
Early Amber 
Fotheringham 
Goliah 

* Green Gage 
Gross Mirabelle 
Jaune Hative 
*Kirke's Large Red 
*La Mirabelle 
*La Royale 

*La Diliciuse 
*Magnum Bonum White 
*Magnum Bonum Red 



New Early 

Yellow 

*Poupart's Seedling 
Precos de Tours 
Pruin 

Queen Mother 
Reian Claude Violet 
Red Diaper 
Royal Dauphin 
*Street's Large Red 
Sharp's Emperor 
Stoneless 
Violet 

White Bullace 
White Damson 
White Imperatrice 
White Pear 
White Perdigron* 
*Wine Sour 
Yellow Gage 



CHERRIES, 



85 



CHERRIES. 

Par, 83. — The culture of cherries in this 
country being rather large, and profitable to 
grow, it is necessary to make a few observations 
on the constitution of this tree. 

There is no fruit tree I know of more subject 
to gum than the cherry, which is frequently 
caused by the land, particularly if the bottom is 
strong clay ; the most essential point to be ob- 
served in planting orchards of this fruit, is to 
select those trees which have been budded stand- 
ard high, for those budded within a few inches 
of the ground, and trained up for standards, 
are very liable to sink below the bud, which is 
which almost sure to cause the tree to decay 
early. 

Likewise, this should always be observed in 
planting of dwarf trained cherries, to keep the 
bud or graft a few inches above the surface of the 
earth ; for if cherries once begin to gum, they 
seldom recover. I have given a description of 
some of the best sorts, which will be found in the 
explanatory list. 



86 



CHERRIES. 



There is no stock so durable for budding and 
grafting cherries on as the small wild black 
cherry, the seed of which should always be select- 
ed for that purpose. 

EXPLANATORY LIST OF CHERRIES. 

Par. 84. — 1. May-tluke ; this cherry which 
ripens early in June against a south wall, is one 
of the best cherries in cultivation : they are great 
bearers as standards, and the flavour is very 
fine. 

2. Ronald's Black heart, or Circassian ; this 
is a fine large black cherry and good bearer ; it 
would deserve general cultivation, but the wood 
in some soils is very apt to decay; it ripens 
early in July. 

3. Black-heart; this is a well known good 
fruit, handsome, and a good bearer. 

4. Arch-duke ; this is an exceeding fine 
cherry, larger than the May-duke, and a good 
bearer ; it is not properly in perfection till July. 
This is a valuable cherry to grow for the 
market. 

5. Morella ; this cherry is one of the greatest 



CHERRIES. 



87 



bearers, either as standards, or against a wail, 
we have in cultivation ; it is large and handsome, 
and in the month of October is nearly black, — ■ 
at this season it is a great addition to the 
dessert ; it is also fine for tarts and pre- 
serving, and by far the best for putting in 
brandy. 

6. Bleeding Heart ; this is a very fine fruit, is 
ripe about the middle of July, but it is not a gene- 
ral bearer. 

7. Harrison's Heart ; this by many persons is 
considered a very fine cherry ; it comes in late for 
the dessert, being ripe in August. 

B. Black Coroon ; this is a very fine cherry, 
and generally Is a good bearer; it ripens in July 
and August. 

9. Biggereau : this is a very fine cherry, and 
is a great ornament to the dessert in July ; they 
will do well as standards, but the fruit will come 
finer against a west wall. 

10. Kentish ; the wood of this cherry very 
much resembles the wood of the Morella, and 
is one of the best to plant for orchards, the con- 
stitution of the tree being strong, and the de- 
mand for the fruit great, being consumed in 



88 



CHERRIES. 



large quantities for kitchen purposes : it likewise 
very much resembles the Flemish, for which it 
is a very good substitute, being a better cherry 
and a better bearer. 

11. Florence ; this is a most beautiful cherry 
for the dessert, and will bear well as standards, 
but the fruit will grow larger against the wall, — 
the flavour is excellent. 

12. Waterloo ; this cherry is one of the fine 
productions of Mr. Knight ; it is a very fine 
sweet flavoured fruit, and tolerably productive. 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF CHERRIES. 



Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described 



in the explanatory List. 



Par. 85.— 



Amber Heart 



Adam's Crown 



Carnation 
Churchill's Heart 



*x\rch-Duke 



Double Blossom 



•Biggereau 
•Black Coroon 
Black Eagle 
•Black Heart 
Black Tartarian 
"•Bleeding Heart 



Early May 
Elton 



Flemish 



•Florence 



Graffion 



Harrison's Heart 



APRICOTS. 



89 



Holman's late Duke 

* Kentish 
Kensington Duke 
Knight's new Black 
Lady Southampton's Duke 

* May-duke 
Montmorencie 
*Morella 



Ox Heart 

*Ronald's Black Heart or 

Circassian 
Waterloo 
Weeping 

Wentworth Heart 
White Heart 
White Tartarian 



APRICOTS. 

Par. 86. — Various have been the opinions re- 
specting the stocks generally used for budding 
apricots, as they will grow on the muscle, the 
Brussels, and the common plum stock ; but it is 
a general opinion (and not without foundation) 
that those budded on the Brussels stock are more 
liable to decay. 

Having tried the whole of the above stocks 
for years past, I find none so well suited for 
Apricots as the common plum stock, usually 
called commoners, except the Royal Orange, 
which does best on the muscle ; there may be 
many who will not agree with my recommending 
the common plum before the muscle, for the 
Moor Park, but I give it the decided preference. 



90 



APRICOTS 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF APRICOTS. 

Par. 87. — 1. Moor Park; this apricot is con- 
sidered decidedly the best in cultivation ; it is a 
very great bearer, the fruit is very fine, and de- 
serves to be recommended before any other ; — it 
ripens about the middle of August. 

I have seen the Moor Park bear well as stand- 
ards in the open ground. 

2. Peach Apricot ; this is a fine large apricot, 
very much like the Moor Park, and ripens about 
the same time. 

3. Turkey; this is a tolerably good apricot, 
of rather a deep colour, but not very full of juice, 
— it ripens late in August. 

4. Red Masculine; this should always be 
planted amongst a collection, for it comes in 
earlier than most other sorts ; it is a small fruit, 
red towards the sun when ripe, and is esteemed 
for being ready before other sorts, — it ripens in 
July. 

5. Algiers ; this is a yellow apricot, of rather 



LIST OF APRICOTS. 



91 



a flat shape, and good flavour ; it ripens in Au- 
gust. 

6. Small Orange Apricot; this is a great 
bearer, and is grown principally for preserving, 
and tarts. 

7. Royal Orange; this is a fine apricot of a 
yellow colour, — it is ripe in August. 

8. Roman ; this is a large yellow apricot of a 
good flavour, — it is ripe about the middle of Au- 
gust. 

9. Breda ; this is an excellent apricot, large, 
of a yellow colour, full of fine flavoured juice, 
and is a good bearer,— ripe about the end of 
August : it may be planted as an open standard. 

17. Brussels ; this is rather a small apricot, 
but is a very great bearer, and is generally 
preferred for planting as standards, in the 
open ground ; it is of a red colour towards the 
sun, and looks very handsome on the trees ; it 
has a tart flavour which is generally admired 
when grown on the open standards, — it is ripe 
in September. 



92 



APRICOTS 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF APRICOTS 



Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described 
in the explanatory List. 

Par. 88.— 



Alberge 

* Algiers 

Black 

*Breda 

^Brussels 

Dutch 

Gold Blotched Leaved 
Grover's Breda 
*Moor Park 
*Orange 
*Peach 



Persian 

Portugal 

Provence 

*Red Masculine 

*Roman 

*Roval Orange 

Temple 

Transparent 

^Turkey 

White Masculine 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES. 

Par. 89. — Peaches and Nectarines being so 
much alike in nature and cultivation, what is 
said of one will equally apply to the other ; it 
appears, from the best authorities, that the 
almond was the original parent of the above 
fruits, and they grow freely budded on the 
almond stock, but they are far more durable 



PEACHES AND NECTAKINBS. 



93 



when budded on the plum. To enter here into 
a detail of the different peaches and nectarines 
which grow best on the different sorts of plums, 
would be wholly unnecessary, as I do not consi- 
der myself as writing complete and full instruc- 
tions to render every one of my readers compe- 
tent to fill the arduous labours of a nurseryman, 
and to particularise each would rather tend to 
confuse than inform ; suffice it to say, that nei- 
ther peach or nectarine will succeed on the 
Brussels Stock, and the stocks generally used 
for peaches and nectarines, which they like most, 
are the Muscle and Pear plums. 

It often occurs, that peaches and nectarines 
swell too large for the stock they are budded on ; 
this plainly denotes the stock is not suited to 
the constitution of that variety ; and this the 
nurserymen in the neighbourhood of London 
have made their study, and have brought it to 
that perfection, which has given them a decided 
superiority over most of their country contem- 
poraries, who, generally speaking, have not 
sufficient practice in this department ; indeed it 
is no small matter of consideration, for it is not 



94 



LIST OF APRICOTS. 



only the sum paid for the trees, but the morti- 
fication (which can only be known to those who 
have experienced it) after having planted the 
trees a few years, of seeing them diseased and 
and gradually dwindling away. Peaches will 
grow by grafting, but they never do well, being 
sure to gum, and get diseased where the scion 
is put on the stock. In the explanatory list will 
be found a description of the best sorts, with 
their seasons for ripening, &c. 

EXPLANATORY LIST OF PEACHES. 

Par. 90. — Noblesse ; this peach is large and 
handsome, of a whitish green colour, and inclined 
to red where they are exposed to the sun ; it is 
a fine melter, and very full of rich juice ; it is 
a good bearer, and ripens early in September. 

2. Montauban ; this is a fine melting peach, 
and full of juice, of a deep red towards the 
sun ; it is a good bearer, and ripens early in 
September. 

3. Vanguard ; this peach is in every respect 
so much like the Noblesse that many persons 
think it the same, but it is not ; the tree is rather 
of stronger growth, and the fruit something 



LIST OF PEACHES, 



95 



larger ; there is but little difference in their 
time for getting ripe. 

4. Red Nutmeg ; this is a small peach of a 
deep red colour, and a good bearer ; it ripens 
early in August, for which it is much esteemed. 

5. Early Ann; this peach is admired for being 
early ; it is a good peach, and ripens about the 
middle of August. 

6. Royal George ; this is a fine old peach, of 
a high colour next to the sun ; it is full of fine 
sweet juice, a good bearer, and ripens early. 

7. French Mignonne ; this is a large beautiful 
peach of a red colour, a fine melter, and full of 
sweet juice ; it is a good bearer, and ripens late 
in August. 

8. Royal Kensington ; this is a very fine peach, 
and considered by many persons to be the same 
as the French Mignonne ; some trees being 
sent from France as a present to her Majesty, 
Queen Charlotte, it was called the Royal Ken- 
sington. 

9. Bourdine ; this is a fine melting peach, of 
a red colour next to the sun; it is a great bearer, 
and ripens about the end of September. 

10. Red Magdalen; this is a large beautiful 



96 



LIST OF PEACHES. 



peach, of a deep red colour, full of fine rich 
juice, and ripens early in September. I have 
seen this peach bear plentifully on standards in 
the open ground. 

11. Chancellor ; this is a fine old peach, with 
melting flesh, full of rich juice, and very hand- 
some ; it ripens early in September. 

12. Rosanna ; this is one of the greatest 
bearers in cultivation; it is of a deep purple 
next the sun, and is considered a good peach ; 
it will bear well as a standard in the open ground : 
—it ripens in September. 

13. Early Gallande ; this peach is highly es- 
teemed, and is certainly one of the best peaches 
we have ; it is a great bearer, very handsome, 
and ripens early in September. 

14. La Teton de Venus ; this is a fine rich 
peach, rather a long form, of a pale red, and 
ripens late in September. 

15. Early Admirable; this is a large fine 
peach, of a beautiful red colour next the sun, ; 
it is full of fine sweet juice, and ripens early in 
September. 

16. Monstrous Pavie of Pompone; this is 



LIST OF PEACHES. 



97 



called by our market gardeners a Cling-stone 
peach, but the French call all Pavies which do 
not come clean from the stone : it is cultivated 
more for its size and beauty, than its excellence ; 
it ripens about the middle of October. 

17. Grim wood's Royal George ; this is a very 
fine melting peach, a great bearer, and ripens 
late in August. 

18. Catharine ; this is a late good peach, but 
will adhere to the stone ; it is of a fine red co- 
lour towards the sun, is rich, and full of juice ; 
it ripens late in October. 

19. Late Admirable; this is a very fine melt- 
ing*peach, handsome, full of juice : and ripens late 
in September. 

20. Old Newington ; this peach is handsome, 
and of a deep red towards the sun ; it is tolera- 
bly full of juice, but it will adhere to the stone ; 
— it ripens about the end of September. 

21. Double Swalsh ; this is a very fine melt- 
ing peach, — is ripe early in September. 

22. Smoth-leaved Royal George : this is a 
most excellent peach, full of fine rich juice, 

F 



98 



LIST OF PEACHES. 



handsome, and one of the greatest bearers we 
have j — it is ripe early in September. 

23. Violet Hative ; this is a fine high coloured 
peach, melting flesh, with an abundance of rich 
juice ; it is a good bearer, and ripens late in 
August. 

24. Millet's Mignion ; this is a very fine large 
melting peach, and excellent for forcing, it not 
being so subject to mildew as some sorts ; it is a 
good bearer, — is ripe early in September. 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF PEACHES. 



Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are describ ed 
in the explanatory List. 



Par. 91.— 



Acton Scot 



Belgarde 
Bell Chevreux 



Double Montagne 

Down ton 

* Early Admirable 



*Bourdine 



Ann 



Braddick's 



— — Avant 



Buckinghamshire Mignion 

Catharine 

* Chancellor 



Double Blossom 



Purple Avant 
- Gallande 

Purple 

Newington 



Swalsh 



*French Mignion 



LIST OF NECTARINES. 



99 



* Grim wood's Royal George 
Gross Mignion 
Incomparable 
Java 

*Late Admirable 
Late Gallande 
*La Teton D' Venus 
Lowe's Large Melter 
^Millet's Mignion 
^Monstrous Pavie. of Pom- 
pone 
*Montauban 
*Newington 
Nivette 
*Noblesse 



* Nutmeg Red 
White 



*Red Magdalen 

*Rosanna 

*Royal Kensington 

*Royal George 

*Smooth-Leaved Royal 

George 
Spring Grove, or Persian 

Peach 
*Vanguard 
*Violet Hative 
White Magdalen 
Yellow Alberge 



EXPLANATORY LIST OF NECTARINES. 

Par. 92. — 1. Elruge ; this is one of the finest 
nectarines we have ; it is of a good size, and a 
great bearer ; the colour is a dark red towards 
the sun, and a yellowish green next the wall ; 
the flesh is fine and melting, and full of sweet 
juice ; it ripens late in August : it is also a fine 
nectarine for forcing. 

2. Newington ; this is a very good Nectarine, 
and a great bearer, of a fine red colour, — it ad- 

f 2 



100 



LIST OF NECTARINES. 



heres to the stone, but is full of fine sweet juice : 
it ripens early in September. 

3. Red Roman ; this is an old well-known 
good nectarine, of a deep red or purple next the 
sun, and rather yellow on the wall side, — it is a 
good bearer, and ripens early in September. 

4. Brugnion ; this is a good^ nectarine, of a 
deep red towards the sun, and a pale yellow 
next to the wall ; it is fine eating when full ripe 
from the tree, but soon loses its flavour after 
it is gathered ; it ripens late in August. 

5. Murrey: this is a very fine nectarine, of 
a purple colour towards the sun, large, a good 
bearer, full of fine sweet juice, and may be 
considered one of the best ; it ripens early in 
September. 

6. Golden or Temple Nectarine ; this is 
handsome, of a light red towards the sun, and 
yellow on the wall side ; it has plenty of juice, 
and is generally admired ; it ripens late in 

September. 

7. Violet Hative; this is a most excellent 
nectarine, of a deep red towards the sun ; it is 



LIST OF NECTARINES, 



101 



a fine rich melting fruit, full of sweet juice, and 
a good bearer ; it ripens late in August. 

8. Fairchild's Early; this is a small early 
nectarine, of a fine red colour, the flesh is melt- 
ing and full of fine juice ; is ripe about the 
middle of August. 

9. Vermash ; this is a fine late nectarine, of a 
green colour, a 'little inclined to red towards 
the sun ; it ripens late in September. 

10. Italian ; this is a fine large nectarine, of 
a deep red next the sun, full of rich juice, and 
is greatly admired ; it ripens early in Septem- 
ber. 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF NEC- 
TARINES. 
Those marked with an Asterisk ( # ) are described 
in the explanatory List 



Par. 93.— 

Aromatic 
Brugnion 
*Elruge 



*Fairchild's Early 

Genoese 
*Italian 



102 



GRAPE VINES. 



*Murrey *Roman 

Newfoundland St. Outers 

*Newington *TempIe 

New White *Violet Hative 

Old White *Vermash 

Peterborough 

GRAPE VINES. 

Par. .94. — The principal part of this deli 
eious fruit is grown in hot-houses and vineries, 
as our climate will not admit of their coming to 
perfection in the open air, excepting a few 
sorts. Those will be found in the explanatory 
list which will suit the different situations best. 

I know of no grape for the open wall to 
equal the Royal Muscadine ; it seldom fails to 
ripen, is a great bearer, and a most excellent 
grape for the dessert; it also makes very fine 
wine. 

t 

EXPLANATORY LIST OF GRAPE VINES. 

Those marked with W* are for the Wall — those V. 
are for the Vinery— and those H. are the 
Hot-house, 

Par. 95,— 1. Royal Muscadine,, by some 



GKAPE VIXES. 



103 



called the Malmsey ; this is an excellent grape 
for the wall or vinery, the berries when ripe 
are of an amber colour, large, round, and very 
fine flavoured ; it is one of the best white grapes 
we have for the open wall, for it is a great bearer 
and seldom fails to ripen. W. V. H. 

,2 Black Muscadine : this is a great bearer, 
and will often ripen against the open wall : the 
berries are handsome, having a very fine purple 
bloom. V. 

3. Black Damascus ; this is a very fine large 
black grape, full of rich juice, and highly es- 
teemed. H. 

'4. White Muscat of Alexandria; this grape 
is in high estimation for the hot-house, the 
berries are of a fine oval shape, the bunches 
long and large, and the flavour much admired. 
H. 

5. White Muscat ; this is a good bearer, with 
large berries of rather an amber colour. V. H. 

6. White Chasselas, called by some the 
White Muscadine ; this is a very good grape 
for the wall, the berries rather resemble the 
Royal Muscadine, but are not so large. W. 



104 



GRAPE V1XES. 



7. Elford's Seedling ; this grape is remarkable 
for its bearings the seed being sown in January 
1821, and fruit produced from the seedling was 
exhibited at a meeting of the Horticultural 
Society, on the 1st of October 1822 ; it is a 
tolerably good grape. W. V. 

8. The Black Tripoli; this is a very fine 
black grape, with large berries, full of fine rich 
juice. H. 

9. Black Muscadel has rather a peculiar 
flavour, but is generally considered pleasant, 
the berries are black, of an oval shape, and 
large. H. 

10. Red Muscadel ; the bunches of this grape 
grow very large, and likewise the berries, which 
are red. H. 

1 1 . Black Alicant or Spanish ; this is a tole- 
rably large sized black grape, and the flavour 
were generally admired. V* H. 

12. Black Frontinac ; the berries of this 
grape are not very large, full of fine rich juice, 
and are greatly admired. V. H. 

13. White Frontinac ; the berries of this 
grape are small and round, the bunches grow 



GRAPE VINES. 



105 



long and tolerably large ; the juice has a very 
peculiar flavour, but it is highly esteemed. W> 
V. H. 

14. Grizzly Frontinac ; this grape is rather 
of a brown red colour, very fine, and generally 
admired. V. H, 

15. Red Frontinac; the berries of this grape 
are rather large, of a dingy red colour ; it is 
considered a very fine grape. V. H. 

16. Black Hamburgh; this grape, for the 
hothouse or vinery, cannot be excelled ; the 
berries are large, round, and handsome, and the 
bunches well formed ; it is a great bearer, and 
of excellent flavour. V. H. 

16. Red Hamburgh ; this is a tolerably good 
grape, the berries are of a dark red colour. 
V. H. 

18. White Sweet Water ; the flavour of this 
grape is most excellent, the berries are of a 
tolerable size, but the bunches do not grow 
handsomely. W. V. H. 

19. New White Sweet Water; this is a most 
excellent grape, a great bearer, and the bunches 
not so irregular as the former. W. V. H. 

f8 



106 



GRAPE VI^ES, 



10. Black Sweet Water ; this grape has a 
small sweet berry which is very liable to crack, 
consequently against the open wall is much 
destroyed by birds and flies ; it is an early 
grape. W. V. 

21. Black Cluster ; this is a small black 
grape, a great bearer, and covered when ripe 
with a fine bloom. W. 

22. White Raisin ; the berries of this grape 
are very large, with a thick skin, the bunches 
also grow very large and handsome. H. 

23. Claret ; this grape has small black ber- 
ries, with red juice; it is not an agreeable fruit 
to eat, but makes excellent wine. V. H. 

24. Lombardy ; this is a large red grape 5 
the bunches grow 7 very large and are full of 
rich juice. V. H. 

25. ^ St. Peter's ; this grape is very black 
when ripe, the berries are large, of an oval 
shape, and the bunches very large ; it is a good 
grape. V. H. 

26. West's St. Peter's ; this is a fine black 
grape, now in high estimation, the bunches 



GRAPE VINES, 



107 



come fine, the berries large, and flavour excel- 
lent. V. H. 

27. Sir Abraham Pitchers ; this is a large 
fine black grape, and greatly admired. V. H. 

28. Black Prince ; this is one of the best black 
grapes for the natural wall, as it seldom fails 
to ripen, the bunches grow large, particularly 
in the vinery, and the berries, which are tole- 
rably large, are full of fine sweet juice ; it is now 
much in request. W. V. H. 

29. White Tokay ; this is a fine grape of very 
delicate appearance, but rather a bad bearer. V, 

30. Black Portugal; the berries of this grape 
are of a middling size, and in favourable sea- 
sons will ripen against the natural wall ; it is a 
good grape. W. V. H, 



108 



LIST OF GRAPE VINES. 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF GRAPE 
VINES. 

Those marked with an Asterisk (* ) are described 
in the explanatory List. 



Par. 96.— 

Aleppo 

* Black Alicant 
— Cluster 

* Damascus 

— Esperion 

— Frankendall 

*— — - — Frontinae or Mus- 
cat Noir 

— Gibraltar 

— Hamburgh 

— — Lisbon 

— — Morilion 

— Morocco 

* ■ Museadel # 

■ Muscadine 

■ Muscat 

* Portugal 

* Prince 

* Sir Abm. Pitcher' 

* ■ ■ ■ St, Peter's 



*Black Sweet Water 

* Tripoli 

*Chasselas 
*Claret 
*Elford's Seedling 

* Grizzly Frontinae 

* Golden Galacian 
*Lombardy 

Malmsey 

Miller's Burgundy 
Malvoise or Blue Tokay 
Muscat of Alexandria 
Muscatelle 
*New White Sweet Water 
*Red Frontinae or Muscat 

Rouge 
- Constantia 

* Hamburgh 
5 * Muscadel 

— Muscat 



LIST OF FIGS. , 



109 



Red Raisin White Xice 

Smyrna — Parsley Leaved 

Muscat of Alexandria Raisin 

Muscat of Jerusalem Syrian 

Syracuse Muscat of Lunel 

*Royal Muscadine Cornichon 

Tottenham Park Muscat Hamburgh 

*West's St. Peter's Olcobaca 

♦White Sweet Water Morillon 

* Frontinac Muscat 

* Muscat of Alex- * Teneriffe 

andria *■ Tokay 

EXPLANATORY LIST OF FIGS. 

Par. 97. Yellow Ischia, is a large fine fla- 
voured fruit, with a yellow skin and deep red 
flesh ; it is ripe about the middle of October. 

2. Brown Naples Fig ; this fruit is long, of 
a brown colour, well-flavoured, and is a good 
bearer ; it ripens early in October. In good 
seasons this fig will ripen well on standards. 

3. Green Ischia; this has a thin green skin, 
with a brown cast; when ripe, the inside is a 
deep red inclining to purple ; it is a good fig, and 
ripens late in September. 

4. Malta; this is a fine flavoured, small brown 



110 



LIST OF FIGS. 



fig ; the wood is rather tender, but if the wood 
ripens well, it is generally a good bearer ; it 
ripens early in September. 

5. Black Ischia; this fig is one of the great- 
est bearers we have; the fruit when ripe is 
nearly black, of a small size, but finely flavoured; 
it is good for forcing, wall or standards, and 
ripens early. 

6. Large White Genoa ; this is a large fig, 
with a thin skin of pale yellow ; it is a fine 
fruit, good bearer, and ripens late in August or 
beginning of September; it is a good fig for 
forcing. 

7. Black Genoa; this is a long dark fig. 
quite red inside, is fine flavoured, and ripens 
early. 

8. Small White Fig; this is a small, pale 
yellow fruit, of very good flavour, a great 
bearer, and will do well as standards; it ripens 
early. 

9. Large Brown Ischia ; this fig grows very 
large, — it is brown outside, and purple within, 
is fine flavoured, and will often produce two 
crops in the year : it ripens early. 



LIST OF FIGS 



in 



10. Black Italian; this is a small fig cf a 
very fine flavour ; it is one of the best for grow- 
ing in pots 3 being a very great bearer. 



ALPHABETICAL LIST OF FIGS. 

Those marked with an Asterisk (*) are described 
in the explanatory List, 



Par, 98.— 
* Black Genoa 

* — Ischie 

* Italian 

Blue Ischie 
Brown Ischie 

* Naples 

Common Blue 
*Green Ischie 



Madona 

* Maltese 
Murrey 

*Small Early White 
Turkey Large Black 

* White Genoa 
*Yellow Ischie 



Par. 99.= 

Golden Striped 
Silver Striped 



CHESTNUTS. 



Spanish 
Virginian 



112 



BARBERRIES, QUINCES, &C. 



BARBERRIES. 

Par. 100 — 

Black Sweet 

Common Red with Stones, 
Red without Stones 

QUINCES. 

Par. 101. — 

Apple Quince 

Oblong 

Portugal 



WALNUTS. 



Par. 102.— 



Black Virginian or French Walnut 

Hickery Large Walnut 

Cob Walnut Small Walnut 
Double Walnut 

FILBERTS AND HAZLE NUTS. 

Par, 103.— 

Barcelona or Spanish Nut Cosford Nut 

Cluster Wood Nut Dwarf Prolific Nut 

Cob Nut Red Filbert 

Common Wood Niit White Filbert 



RASPBERRIES, STRAWBERRIES, &C 1 



RASPBERRIES. 

Par. 104.— 

Double-bearing Red Large Red 

— White Red Antwerp 

Early White Smooth Cane 



STRAWBERRIES. 



Par. 105.— 

Alphine 
Bath Scarlet 
Carolina 
Chili 
Downton 
Keen's Imperial 

New Seedling 

Knight's Seedling 
Mathevin Castle 



Nairn's Scarlet 

New Hautboy 

Pine Apple 

Roseberry 

Scarlet 

Suranam 

Wilmot's Scarlet 

— — — Black Imperial 

Wood Strawberry 



CURRANTS. 



Par. 106.— 



Black American 

— — Common 

Large Pale Red Cham- 

paigne 



Long Bunched Red 
Red Common 
White Common 
■ Dutch 



114 



GOOSEBERRIES. 



COMMON GOOSEBERRIES IN THIS COUNTRY. 

Par. 107.— 



Champaigne 
Common White 
Early Black 
Green Gascoin 
Hairy and Smooth Red 



Large Rough Yellow 
Large Smooth Dutch Yellow 

Yellow 

Small Early Yellow 
Smooth Green 



RED GOOSEBERRIES. 
Alcock's King Fox's Jolly Smoker 

Boardman's Royal Oak 
Brundret's Atlas 
Chapman's Peerless 
Dean's Glory of England 
Duke of York 
Farlow's Lord Hood 
Fisher's Conqueror 



Hall's Porcupine 
Lomax Victory 
Mason's Hercules 
Taylor's Volunteer 
Warrington 

Worthington's Glory of 
Eccles 



GREEN GOOSEBERRIES. 

Chadwick's Hero Royal Green Gage 

Dean's Lord Hood Smith's Mask 

Mill's Langley Green Yeates's Duke of Bedford 
Reid's Satisfaction 

WHITE GOOSEBERRIES. 
Atkinson's White Hall Gibson's Apollo 
Chapman's Highland White Kenyon's Noble 
D avenport's Lady W T oodward's Whitesmith 



GOOSEBERRIES. 



115 



COLLECTION OF VERY 
BEI 

Ackerley's Double Bearer 
Costerdina Goliah 
Golden Drop 
Goliah Champion 
Hampson's Bearer 
High Sheriff 
Jackson's Golden Orange 
Layford's Seedling 
Monk's Charles Fox 



FINE SORTS OF GOOSE- 
RIES. 

Nixon's Golden Eagle 

Bidding's Old England 

Royal George 

Royden's Triumph 

Rumbulion 

Sparkler 

Supreme Red 

White Walnut 

Worthington's Lilly. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



Par. 108. — The generality of practical hor- 
ticulturalists have been inclined to despise the 
theorist, but since the study has now become 
not only a fashionable but a profitable source 
of amusement, it has led many scientific theorists 
to furnish the practical man with much useful 
information, which the latter has been able to 
improve on ; and from experiments and practice 
placed England on a level, and, I may add, in a 
superior situation to all foreign countries in this 
respect. The knowledge I possess on this sub- 
ject, as well as gardening in general, has certainly 
been greatly assisted by the study of different 
works which have appeared on these subjects ; 



GENEHAL OBSERVATIONS. 



117 



but because their authors may not have under- 
stood practically what they treated of, is no 
reason why I should be the less sensible of the 
obligations I am under to them. Yet, it may be 
said, these works are mostly produced from 
ancient writings, as the substance of most of them 
was known and treated of by our forefathers : 
but ought this to be allowed to depreciate the 
merit of their labours? Would the practical 
man, I would ask, give himself the trouble to 
search after these ancient works, did he know of 
their existence, putting out of the question the 
expense he would be at, (as most books, after a 
certain date, become scarce, and are then much 
enhanced in value,) and would he, when their 
attainment was accomplished, find himself com- 
petent to suggest the improvements made by 
most modern authors ? I will (speaking col- 
lectively) fearlessly answer with regard to the 
first, he would not be at the trouble ; and with 
the second, he would be fully sensible of the 
wide difference between imaginary and actual 
powers of improving. Thus might we proceed 
in the jog-trot pace of antiquity, were it not for 



118 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

the intelligence and encouragement of modern 
times. 

One thing we much cause to lament, which 
is, the premature decay of some of our most 
ornamental and useful timber trees, particularly 
Jhe elm, which is caused by a most destructive 
insect : the tree is first maltreated by bruises 
on the bark, or otherwise injured, then follows 
this destructive insect, which, in one of its stages, 
eats into the tree, and rapidly consumes it ; these 
serious appearances are to be discerned exten- 
sively Kensington Gardens, and many other 
places. I would here hazard an opinion, from 
having made it my study for many years ; but as 
the cause may only have been an oversight in 
those who have the care of them, it might appear 
officious and misplaced in a work of this nature. 

I shall now, previous to drawing to a con- 
clusion, make a few additional remarks on plant- 
ing of orchards. The first thing to consider, 
when orchards are about to be planted, is the 
soil which will best suit the different sorts of 
fruit; if it is a fine deep, loamy soil, all kinds of 
fruit trees will succeed on it ; but standard 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



119 



apples and pears will not do well on any other ; 
plums (although they like loam) will do well on 
a sandy or gravelly soil, provided the gravel be 
not too near the surface ; cherries will likewise 
succeed on various soils, although they do best 
on a light loam. 

When an orchard is about being planted on a 
fertile piece of land, (particularly when it is in- 
tended far family use,) the various explanatory 
lists of fruits should be consulted, and a selection 
made therefrom (according to the size of the 
orchard) of all the different fruits, consisting of 
Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, Medlars, Wal- 
nuts, Chesnuts, Damsons, Mulberries and Quin- 
ces, the whole of which are useful in their seasons 
for the dessert and culinary purposes, although a 
few only of some of the sorts will be necessary, 
they ought to be planted, to complete the orchard. 

It is an advisable plan to plant a row of Wal- 
nut trees on the north or north- east side of the 
orchard, as they will greatly break the winds 
from the bloom of the other trees ; for although 
the walnut is much later than many fruits in 
producing its leaves, it greatly assists in protect- 



120 GENEHAL OBSERVATIONS. 



ing the neighbouring bloom from the east and 
north-east blasts, from which it generally suffers 
more than from any other cause, and the walnut 
itself from being so late in the season before it 
is in bloom, it is less likely to suffer than most 
other fruits. 

Indeed, if we could protect the peaches and 
nectarines while in bloom, we should have them 
as fine and plentiful in the open grourid in this 
country as they are in America ; but the peach 
and nectarine producing its bloom before they 
put forth their leaves, the cold east wind, which 
we are' almost invariably subject to in England, 
in the early part of the spring, is too sharp for 
the tender bloom, and consequently they seldom 
produce a crop, except in sheltered situations. 
On the contrary, in North America, although 
they are subject to very severe weather through- 
out the winter, when the frost breaks up and the 
spring commences, they generally have a con- 
tinuance of fine mild weather, therefore the 
growth of this fruit has a preference ; indeed, 
they are in the habit of planting orchards of 
peaches and nectarines as common as we do 
apples. 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



121 



Before I leave this subject, it will be necessary 
to speak of the increasing value land would be 
brought to by cultivating it with apples. 

As one acre contains one hundred and sixty 
square rods, and each rod measures sixteen feet 
and a half square, if the trees were planted at a 
rod apart, it would of course take one hundred 
and sixty trees ; or if they were planted wider, 
say one hundred to the acre, we have then to 
consider what would be the average profit arising 
from it. In the first place, while the trees are 
in a young state, the injury will be so trifling to 
the under crops, for the first five or six years, as 
to be scarcely worthy of notice ; and by planting 
good apples and sure bearers, in that time their 
produce would more than pay every expense of 
the purchase of the trees and planting, and from 
that time the profits would every year increase as 
the trees grew larger ; on the seventh year from 
planting, suppose you could only ensure one 
bushel from each tree, making one hundred 
bushels, (this is putting it at the lowest calcula- 
tion,) and each bushel worth five shillings, this 
will amount to twenty-five pounds ; and allowing 

G 



122 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



every future year the fruit of each tree to increase 
in value only sixpence, from the increasing growth 
of the tree for twenty years, which by planting 
at that distance they would have sufficient room 
to do, it would make the produce of each tree 
worth fifteen shillings, and the gross produce of 
the acre worth seventy-five pounds per year, in- 
dependent of the meadow. 

In this statement, it must be allowed, I have 
stated the average produce at the lowest, having 
allowed each tree at the age of twenty-seven 
years to produce only three bushels, and each 
bushel at five shillings ; and as the demand for 
apples is, and always will be very great, I know 
of no crop the land could produce that would 
tend to a more sure or greater source of profit. 

And lastly, it ought to be borne in mind, that 
-the apple provides the dessert at seasons when 
we can scarcely have have any other of our own 
produce ; and also the pudding and pie, which 
we cannot conveniently procure at all seasons 
from other fruit, which is, from the tart, to the 
dumpling made for the peasant's child, of uni- 
versal service as well as a luxury. 

END OF PART I. 



PART II. 



CHAPTER I. 

General Description of Hothouses intended for Pines, 
including situations, aspects, fyc. ; also instructions for 
Pits and Hot-beds. 

Par. I. The site on which to erect a hot- 
house, should be selected where, if possible, it 
will receive the benefit of the sun from the 
earliest time in the morning until the evening 
without obstruction from other buildings, tre^s, 
or any other causes ; likewise it would be equally 
desirable, if convenient, to select a spot which 
is naturally dry, and sheltered at the back. 

g 2 



124 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 

Many new designs for hothouses have recent- 
ly been introduced with the usual recommenda- 
tion consequent on ushering them into notoriety; 
but although I am in favour of some newly in- 
vented glass-houses for other purposes, I am 
decidedly of opinion, taking all things into con- 
sideration, that there is not any formed which is 
so well suited for the main, or general pinery, as 
the first I shall describe. 

The structure should extend lengthivays, from 
east to west, the back formed of a sound brick 
wall on the north, from eight to sixteen feet 
high, as the size of the house may require, and 
glass-work on the south, east and west, with up- 
right moveable sashes in the front, in frames 
placed on a brick foundation, raised about 
eighteen inches or two feet from the ground : 
also both ends to be formed of glass-work in 
fixed sashes placed on brick-work to correspond 
with the front and back walls, with a door half 
glazed at one or both ends, according to the 
size of the house, the roof likewise to be formed 
of glazed, sloping, moveable sashes, extending 
from the north wall downwards to the top of the 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 125 

sashes in front ; and for the information of those 
not well versed in hothouse building, a more 
detailed statement may be useful. 

Upon the low front walls, a plate or frame of 
wood is placed, of sufficient strength and sub- 
stance to contain the uprights, to be also formed 
of wood, which should be from three feet to three 
feet and-a-half apart, and formed so as to contain 
the upright sashes, which may be from three to five 
feet high, more or less as the size of the house 
will require, with another brace-plate, or plate of 
wood along the top of the uprights, to fix and se- 
cure them in; and from the top of this front upright 
franfe-work, rafters are extended to the top of 
the back wall, three feet to three feet and a half 
apart for the support of the sloping top sashes ; 
of the same width as the upright, and the top 
sashes, rangedj in two or three tiers, one above 
another, according to the width of the house, 
so constructed that they may slide up and down 
as occasion requires, and if made to slide upon 
rollers, it will be by far more convenient to let 
up and down, with pullies, particularly when 
expedition is required in stormy weather, &c. ; 
the front upright sashes may be formed nearly 



126 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 



the same as window sashes, made either to slide 
or swing open, or shut with ease, and the top 
sashes made of sufficiently strong outside frame- 
work, with narrow bars of wood grooved out, in 
•which to lay the glass, ranged lengthways, six r 
eight, or nine inches apart ; the glass to be laid 
in putty on the ledges or bars, with the ends 
lapped over one another about half an inch, 
having the puttying work neatly and closely 
performed, thoroughly water-tight, and the 
whole of the wood- work should be properly 
painted. 

The dimensions of the pinery must entirely 
depend upon circumstances, according to the 
size of the establishment, the wish of the pro- 
prietor, or the general intentions for which the 
pinery is formed ; it may be from ten to fifty feet 
long or more, from eight, ten, to fifteen feet 
wide, and when the house is wide and lofty, the 
top rafters should be supported by uprights in 
the centre of the house ; these should not be 
larger than really necessary, both as regards 
their appearance, and also the room they take 
up, together with obstructing the rays of the 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 127 

sun, therefore solid iron uprights, of a round 
form, are generally to be preferred, and if about 
three inches in diameter, they will be of sufficient 
strength to support the largest rafters required ; 
— if well fixed at the bottom and top, and per-: 
fectly upright, and being painted will not dis- 
figure the house. 

Although I have stated thus much as a 
general outline about the e.xternal formation of 
the hothouse, I beg to remark, that if not 
absolutely necessary, it is highly desirable, to 
employ persons for such works, who have been 
accustomed to hothouse building, otherwise it 
ought to be under the superintendence of the 
experienced gardener, in order to prevent the 
house from being badly constructed, which after- 
wards proves injurious to the crops, and fre- 
quently causes much inconvenience and disap- 
pointment ; but the best guarantee is to employ 
a practical horticultural surveyor, whose judg- 
ment and probity can be relied upon. 

The internal part of the hothouse arrange- 
ments will also require care and judgment. In 
the first place, the flues, which must range in a 



128 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES., 

horizontal form, should be so constructed that 
the heat may be conveyed to all parts of the 
house ; and it is of great advantage to have them 
detached from the walls two or three inches or 
more, that they may give the heat from both 
sides. It is highly requisite to carry one flue 
along the front, and both ends of the house, con- 
tinued to that behind, being of considerable 
utility in resisting the severity of the frost, cold 
damps, &c. ; and the back flues should be ar- 
ranged in two or three returns, one over the 
.other, the uppermost terminating with a chimney 
for carrying off the smoke, after having passed 
through all the flues. Generally the walls of the 
flues should be made of brick on edge only, that 
they may impart the heat early and with more 
effect, six or nine* inches in width, by twelve deep 
in the clear. Good mortar should be used to the 
brick- work, and made very close at the joints, to 
prevent any smoke oozing out into the house > 
The insides may be thinly plastered, and each 
range, and the returns, covered with paving tiles r 
also closely cemented. 

When the hothouse is of very wide dimensions, 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 129 

and long in proportion, say forty feet or more, 
two or more fire-places will be necessary, each 
having its separate range of flues, divided into 
equal proportions, with a chimney attached to 
each division. Where there are two pits ranged 
along the house, one before the other, then the 
flue may be carried along the space between 
them ; but in this case the flue must be detached 
from the bark pit bed, not less than two or 
three inches, to prevent the heat drying the 
bark too much, or it might be in danger of 
taking fire by accident, through overheating the 
flues : but for houses of moderate width, with 
only 'one pit, the flues ranged round the house 
as described above, will be sufficient. 

It will be necessary occasionally to cleanse the 
flues when they become clogged with soot, for 
w r hich purpose, places should be contrived in the 
brickwork, at convenient distances, to make a 
small opening, or by the removal of tiles ; but 
be careful that those apertures are made per- 
fectly secure again. 

At the furnace, or commencement of the first 
flue, it is requisite to have a regulator or register. 

G 5 



130 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 



with a sliding plate of iron, in a frame of iron 
fixed in the brickwork near the fire-place, to 
slide across the flue, occasionally to reduce the 
heat when it may be too powerful, or to admit it 
more strong when necessary. 

The fire-place or furnace from which the flues 
proceed, should be constructed outside the hot- 
house at the back, the heat conveyed through a 
single funnel, along next the end and front walls, 
being continued to that behind. The fire-place 
may be at one end or in the middle, and the 
grate, formed of iron-work, should be about 
fifteen or eighteen inches below the lowest flue, 
which will give* a proper draught for the smoke 
and heat to ascend without returning ; also the. 
fire-place should be formed about twelve or four- 
teen inches wide by about eighteen or twenty 
deep, with an arched top, having an iron door 
on hinges, placed at the mouth, to shut close, and 
to be confined with a latch or catch. 

It is a desirable plan to have the fire-places 
inclosed under a shed, for by being defended from 
the weather both above and on the sides, is very 
advantageous in preserving the regularity of the 



Description of hothouses. 131 

fires, which is (particularly at times) of con- 
siderable importance. 

The pit for the bark bed should extend 
nearly the whole lengthy and the width in pro- 
portion to that of the house, from five to eight 
feet, leaving a passage or walk all round between 
the flues and the pit, of eighteen inches or two 
feet. The walls of the pit should be about three 
to three-and-a-half feet in height, composed of 
thin brick-work, sinking the bottom about one 
foot below the surface, unless the soil is naturally 
wet underneath ; in that case it is better not 
sunk at all. The bottom of the pit should be 
paved with bricks or paving tiles, and the top of 
the brick-work be secured with a plate of wood. 
In large pineries of considerable width, 'two pits 
are sometimes erected, to range parallel, one 
before the other, separated by a passage be- 
tween, the largest and highest pit behind for the 
large fruiting pines, and a lower and smaller one 
in front for the succession of small plants ; and 
when the house is of great length, a division 
across the centre of the pits is very convenient, 
and, where the width of the house will permit, a 



132 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES, 

flue can be carried along between the two pits? 
lengthways, as before named. But the plan te 
be most recommended, both for convenience and 
appearance, and I may add, success, is to have 
one pit only in each house, and to have the suc- 
cession house or houses built at one end, or both 
in one range, to correspond with the main pinery? 
divided inside by a partition of glass-work only. 
This will be very advantageous, both for raising 
the young plants, and also to forward the whole 
of the succession, until they arrive at a proper 
age and strength for placing finally in the main 
pinery for fruiting ; or when a succession house 
is built detached from the principal pinery, the 
same form of building as the latter will likewise 
suit for the former, although generally of less 
dimensions. Having seen much practice with 
steam and hot water, I may here observe that I 
intend under the head of steam and hot water, 
to give a more comprehensive opinion relative to 
heating pineries ; and before I finish this treatise 
I intend to spare neither pains nor expense in 
order to become thoroughly satisfied in every 
particular relative to the properties of hot water 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES ■ 



133 



and steam for such purposes ; which I consider 
highly necessary, after the various theories which 
have appeared on the subject, prior to recom- 
mending its general adoption, particularly as it 
is now recommended by some for growing pines 
to maturity, without tan or any other heat ; and 
I think such caution the more necessary since 
the management of pines under the above prin - 
ciple of constructing the hothouse, and the treat- 
ment alluded to, has stood the test, and proved 
so eminently successful for so many years. 

Nevertheless, as it must be expected that a 
work of this nature will include the new plans of 
the present day, and as I am far from clinging to 
the old, where improvements are at all visible in 
the new, I will next give a description (or at 
least copy a description from the transactions of 
the Horticultural Society) of a pinery which is 
stated to have succeeded with steam, without the 
aid of a bark pit or any other heat ; but I may 
here state that hot water heating is evidently 
superseding that of steam, being of much less 
trouble, and also less dangerous, while its pro- 
perties may be considered quite equal if not 



134 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSE!?. 



superior to steam for horticultural purposes. 
Nay more, I have the satisfaction in stating? 
that when I have recommended the hot water 
system, where 1 have been employed in making 
improvements, or forming new gardens, it has 
received great praise, both from my employers 
and their gardeners, where properly managed \ 
therefore, although I am not at present going 
the length of some as regards pines, still I intend, 
in a future stage of the work, to recommend its 
adoption for those purposes, for which I know it 
to be superior to any other mode of heating ; 
and the following mode of growing pines I give 
verbatim, as it appeared in print : — 

" On the Culture of the Pine Apple, in a 
Letter to the Secretary of the Horticultural 
Society, by Mr. Alexander Stewart, Gardener to 
Sir Robert Preston, Bart, at Valleyfield, near 
Culross, Perthshire ; read Dec. 2nd, 1823. 

" The nature of the pine apple is by no means 
so well understood in Scotland as in England ; 
the plants are kept in too dry an atmosphere 
generally, and not allowed sufficient heat and 
moisture in the summer season. Early in 1820, 



DESCRIPTION 0? HOTHOUSES. 135 

Mr. Stewart felt very desirous to grow pines 
without the aid of tan, and with more steam 
than he had hitherto been able to do. He there- 
fore got a pit, in which he built two flues, and 
supported over them, on brick props, a flooring 
of pavement, covered with a layer of gravel and 
sand on which to place the pots ; at the sides 
were openings, to admit the heated air from 
below, to warm the atmosphere of the plants ; 
the upper level of the platform, on which the 
plants stand, is nearly on a level w T ith the exter- 
nal surface. The pots of plants are set on the 
sand, so that when moisture is added either to 
it or to the plants, it causes a fine gentle steam 
to arise through the whole of the pit, which can 
be regulated at pleasure, by adding more or less 
fire, according to the season or other circum- 
stances." After nearly three year's experience. 
Mr. Stewart is " fully convinced" that tan is 
quite unnecessary, not only as a source of bottom 
heat, but even for rooting the crowns and suck- 
ers. <c The temperature kept during the spring 
and summer is from eighty to one hundred de- 
grees through the day, and as low as from sixty- 



136 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 



five to sixty degrees during the night: in autumn 
or winter it is as low as fifty- five or fifty degrees.'' 
He has no hesitation in stating that, when coals 
are moderate in price, it is the cheapest plan he 
has seen adopted ; and he sends the particulars 
to the Horticultural Society, i: m hopes that they 
may assist in establishing Mr. Knight's views on 
the subject of cultivating the pine apple." 

Another plan recommended by some for a 
pinery, is to have the whole roof formed of 
glass-work,- and instead of extending length- 
ways east and west, as described in the first 
plan, it is made to extend lengthways from 
south to north, with the top, of a ridge-form, 
sloping equally on both sides, east and west ; 
the walls may be raised of an equal height all 
round for fixing the glass-work upon, varying 
from one foot and a half to three feet, and the 
upright sashes along the sides, from two to three 
feet or more in height, according to the height 
of the wall, and to be made to slide or swing 
open ; the sloping top-glasses, reaching from 
the top of the uprights on both sides, to meet 
in the centre of the roof, and the sashes made 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 137 

to slide upon the rafters and frame-work, the 
same as in the former south -fronting hot-house; 
both ends may be also formed of glass-work, 
which makes the structure look more uni- 
form, or if preferred, the north end may be 
made of brick-work ; in the latter case, the fire- 
place may be made there, and covered in, but 
the forming of fire-places for a house built after 
this plan, the situation, and circumstances, must 
guide the judgment: the bark-pit to be extended 
along the centre of the house, with the flues or 
pipes along the inside of the walls, or if the 
house is of sufficient width, two pits can be 
made, and the flue or pipe run between the pits* 
Some approve of this form of pinery in prefer- 
ence to the first-named, contending, that it re- 
ceives more effectual benefit from the sun ; but 
in this opinion I do not altogether agree, as I 
never could perceive that it had that effect, neither 
do I consider that it comprises any other parti- 
cular advantage to cause it to be preferred to a 
hothouse facing the south; and in winter I should 
say, on the contrary, as. the sun at that season 
has less effect within, than when the sloping 



138 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 

glass roof is directly facing the south, or as 
nearly so as circumstances will permit; neverthe- 
less, there are situations where a double glass- 
roofed hothouse may be erected, and not con- 
venient or desirable to build one facing the 
south, in such cases it is by no means to be 
rejected. 

Some pineries are built of a circular form, 
with a wall all round, two or three feet high, 
with upright sashes and sloping roofs, in the 
same proportion as described in the last plan, 
having the flues for fire-heat, or pipes for water, 
or steam heat, carried round the inside walls, 
with a circular pit, or two semi-circular pits, if 
the house be large enough, with a walk round 
between the pits and the outside walls. 

However much persons' taste or their ideas 
may differ, as to the form of the hothouse to be 
constructed, I would strongly recommend them 
them to be raised only of a moderate height for 
pines, as the internal heat will have much better 
effects, and the plants will grow much stronger 
than when the glasses are lofty; the latter often 
makes the plants weak, with long leaves, leaving 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 139 

the bottoms slender, in which case the fruit 
cannot be expected to arrive to that per- 
fection and size, as when the plants are strong 
and robust ; therefore a house about five or six 
feet high in front, by ten or twelve behind, 
generally proves more successful for pines, than 
when they are built much higher. 

When convenient, the building of hothouses 
should be commenced in the spring, or suffi- 
ciently early in the summer, to have them com- 
pleted early in the autumn, that they may be 
thoroughly dry, well painted, and in good condi- 
tion to receive the pines. 

Having given the foregoing directions for the 
formation of hothouses for pines, of a superior 
class, I will now furnish directions for the con- 
struction of pits, in which pines are grown in 
great perfection. 

The pits, if possible, should be erected in 
a sheltered situation, lengthways from east 
to west, five or six feet wide or more, the length 
depending on the quantity of pines intended 
to be grown, the walls all round the pit to be of 
solid brick work, raised five or six feet at the 



140 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 

back, and three or four in front, with both 
ends corresponding with the back, and front 
walls; having a frame- work of wood along the 
top of the walls for the lights to fit closely upon, 
with rafters fixed from back to front of the 
pit, the same distance apart as the width of the 
glass light, for the latter to rest and slide upon, 
and which are generally from three to four feet 
wide, the light well glazed and thoroughly water- 
tight ; the pit should not be sunk much, and if 
the bottom is naturally wet, it ought not to be 
sunk at all, but the walls raised the height 
before mentioned above the surface ; in this 
method of growing pines, I must strongly 
recommend hot water or steam heating in 
preference to fire heat, the first for choice, 
although I have seen the most brilliant success 
attend the steam. The pipes may be carried 
all round the pit, if there be sufficient space 
between the bark in front, and the glass, if 
not, have the pipes behind only, always allow- 
ing a proper space below, for the bark bed, 
which should be about three feet or three feet 
and-a-half deep. 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 141 

But when it is intended to grow pines to 
maturity by this practice, the pits may be made 
much wider and deeper than those above 
described ; and where the spot selected for the 
pits is of a dry nature, the pits may be sunk 
more in proportion, to give room for the larger 
growth of the pines, between the bark bed and 
the glasses, and when the pits are thus formed 
for fruiting the pines, there can be no difficulty 
in carrying the pipes all round the pit. 

By this method of growing pines in pits, 
large quantities may be produced with greater 
safety and with much less expense and trouble 
thari many may imagine, and indeed where the 
practice has not been witnessed, it would be 
scarcely possible to form an idea, or at least 
to become reconciled, that it is attended with 
triumphant success ; but be it recollected, that 
this is for the growth of pines alone, and there- 
fore ought not to do away in large establishments 
with the principal hothouse pinery, as it serves 
so many other useful purposes, as well as being 
an appendage of no mean consideration, where 
forcing is carried on extensively. 



142 DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 

I need only remark further on this subject, 
that where pits are intended for pines, they 
may be made of such dimensions that will suit 
fhem in their various stages of growth ; but I 
am still of opinion that a moderate bottom heat 
is highly essential for the growth of pines, 
indeed the bark bed heat alone, in pits of this 
description, is sufficient, except in very severe 
weather for the young plants, or to strike the 
suckers and crowns in, the proper seasons and 
management of which will be hereafter de- 
scribed. 

Hotbeds made of dung, are sometimes for 
convenience substituted for bark beds, for 
striking the suckers and crowns, with common 
deep garden frames and lights, and may con- 
tinue therein two or three months, or occa- 
sionally through the winter, where there is not 
a more proper place ready to receive them ; 
the beds should be made in the usual form of 
dung hot-beds, three or four feet deep with the 
frames placed thereon, and in about eight or 
ten days, or when the violent heat has abated, 
place on the top of the dung within the frame 



DESCRIPTION OF HOTHOUSES. 143 

some tan j new or old will do, about eight inches 
thick for plunging the pots in ; and when the 
heat is greatly reduced, if the plants are in- 
tended to remain for some time, strong linings 
of hot dung must be applied, and if to continue 
through the winter, it must be renewed once in 
three or four weeks, as occasion requires ; but 
if the heat of the bed should so decline that 
the linings will not sufficiently revive it, pre- 
pare a new bed, and when ready, remove the 
plants thereto as expeditiously as possible, re- 
plunge them, and treat this bed as directed for 
the former, with the addition in winter of 
defending the outside linings with straw or 
stable litter, to counteract the severity of the 
frost, the effects of heavy falls of snow, &c. 
I may also here remark, that lining the outside 
of the bricked pits with light dry litter during 
the winter seasons, has a most beneficial effect, 
by greatly assisting to repel the severity of the 
weather ; indeed, at all seasons it is useful 
rather than otherwise, and to more effectually 
preserve the internal heat, covering the glasses 
of the pits or frames every night in sharp frosty 



144 



DESCRIPTION OF SOILS. 



weather, will be found beneficial, or continued 
the whole day when very rigorous, with straw or 
garden matts, or matts placed over the straw 
may be necessary, but do not keep the plants 
from the light longer than compelled by the 
weather; let it be understood, that the last 
method of growing pines while young, on dung 
hotbeds, is only recommended when it may 
happen that there is not convenience in the 
main pinery, succession house, or the bark bed 
pits. 



DESCRIPTION OF SOILS. 

Par. 2. The soil which is most favourable for 
pines should be principally of a light, rich, loamy 
nature, of one third maiden, or fresh from a 
common or field, if with the turf on, the better ; 
one-third of rich garden mould, and one-third of 
rotten dung ; this being thoroughly turned over, 
and rotted, and well mixed, should be placed in 
a dry shed, and before used ought to be sifted to 
free it from all lumps, stones, &c, and is much 
better for potting than in a wet state ; but it 
should in no case be taken under cover until it 



DESCRIPTION OF SOILS. 



145 



is thoroughly rotten and fit for use, as the sun, 
air, rain, &c, is of great benefit to it while in 
a state of pulverization and decomposition, and 
by preparing the compost annually, it will 
always be ready for use; but in case there may 
be a want of this previously prepared, some rich 
mellow garden mould, some dry rotten dung, 
with some light loam taken from near the sur- 
face, being well mixed together, and sifted or 
screened, may suffice for immediate use ; and if 
the soil appears too strong, add a small portion 
of light sandy opening mould, or some sea-sand 
or drift. 

METHOD OF RAISING PINE PLANTS. 

Par. 3. — Pines are propagated principally from 
suckers growing out of the stems of the fruiting 
plants, both from the lower part, and also from 
some which will produce them near the apple, 
or other parts of the stalk ; likewise the crowds 
from the top of the ripe fruit, when they can be 
preserved when sent to table, will make fine 
strong plants, which should be taken from the 
fruit with a gentle twist. The suckers may be 

H 



146 



METHOD OF RAISING 



allowed to remain on the stems of the old plants 
until the fruit is ripe and removed, and for two 
or three weeks after to give them strength, un- 
less any of them are grown very strong, in 
which case they should be removed, to prevent 
them from impoverishing the fruit, and prevent 
it swelling to the size it otherwise would. 
Although the suckers and crowns from the old 
fruiting plants are to be preferred, the plants 
may sometimes be raised, if required, from the 
succession pines, when they happen to run to 
fruit prior to their proper growth. It will, 
therefore, be necessary to procure a sufficient 
quantity of suckers and crowns during their 
fruiting season, to keep up a regular succession 
for fruiting annually, as the old plants that do 
not decay, are not to be preferred for fruiting 
generally ; and when they are preserved, a strong 
sucker only, is allowed to remain on the old 
plant, which will sometimes grow large, and 
fruit the following year. 

After the crowns and suckers have been detach- 
ed from the fruit and stems, as before described, 
should they be in a very soft succulent state, 



PINE PLANTS. 



147 



they may be laid open in the hothouse for six 
or eight days, or more, to harden them before 
being planted ; and although destitute of roots, 
they, when planted and plunged in the bark 
bed, will soon form roots and grow. I may here 
observe, that the crowns and suckers may be 
preserved in summer, or in the autumn, or at 
any season when the fruit is ripe, or the suckers 
is in a fit state to be removed ; and I should 
recommend to get as many crowns returned as 
can be obtained, as they generally grow stocky, 
strong, and produce fine fruit; and also the 
largest and strongest suckers should be selected ; 
and when the suckers on the lower part of the 
stem are allowed to remain after the fruit is 
gathered, as before directed, for the purpose of 
gaining strength, some of the old leaves may be 
cut or pulled off the stem, to give the suckers 
room to swell, but at all times, when the suckers 
appear about eight or ten inches long or more, 
particularly when they appear brownish at the 
bottom, with small tuberances, from which the 
roots are emitted* they are in a fit and proper 
state to be removed for planting ; being careful 

h 2 



148 



METHOD OF RAISING 



to remove them from the old stem without 
breaking or bruising, by placing the hand near 
the lower part of the sucker, and loosen and 
slip them off clean. When they appear dry and 
hard at the bottom, they may be immediately 
planted, first cutting the ragged part at the 
bottom smooth, and remove some of the under 
leaves by cutting or pulling them off, iudeed, the 
future progres of the plants much depends upon 
the suckers and crowns being properly prepared 
for planting. 

The sizes of pots usually used for planting 
the crowns and suckers in, are forty-eights and 
thirty-twos, the forty-eights for the small, and 
thirty-twos for the larger : the pots being 
filled with the proper mould, (as described under 
the head of soils,) they should be planted shal- 
low in the earth, only sufficient to make them 
fast in an upright position, then give them a 
light watering, and plunge them in the bark 
bed, which should be of a moderate heat ; and if 
no other is ready, they may be placed in the 
main pinery, the pots plunged close together, 
and fill up- all the cavities between them with 



PIXE PLANTS. 



149 



the bark ; by this treatment the plants will 
strike root in about ten days or a fortnight, they 
will then require a moderate watering, both to 
the earth, and over the plants, and when they 
begin to grow, and are well rooted, they will 
require water twice a week in hot weather; and 
if not in the main pinery, air should be admitted 
at about the same proportion as is directed to 
be there kept. 

It may happen, that there may not be room or 
convenience at the time of planting the suckers, 
&c, in the principal pinery, the succession 
house, (if any) or a regular bark pit ; in that case 
a dung hot-bed may be made for the purpose, 
for a one-light frame or more, if required, which 
should be prepared ten days or a fortnight 
before it is wanted, in order that the strong 
rank heat may subside before the pots are 
introduced, the top of the bed being then 
levelled, put on about eight or ten inches of 
bark, and plunge the pots therein two or there 
days after, when if the bed was made about 
three feet deep of the dung, that will generally 
be about the time it may be used ; but in all 



150 



METHOD OF "RAISING 



cases it will be necessary to examine the heat of 
the bed, and be cautious not to plunge the pots 
while it is too violent ; and in case the heat 
should increase to too great a degree, it will be 
necessary to draw up the pots half-way, or raise 
them sufficiently to prevent the plants from 
burning. 

If the plants are raised in a bark-bed pit, or 
the principal pinery, or succession house, they 
may there remain ; but it will be necessary occa- 
sionally, when the heat declines, to fork up the 
tan, or when the heat is greatly reduced, a 
small quantity of new bark may be added, and 
mixed with the old, and then plunge the pots 
again immediately. If the heat in the dung hot 
bed should decline before convenient to remove 
the plants, it can be revived by linings of fresh 
hot dung along* the sides, but in six weeks or 
two months they will be in a fit state to remove 
in the same pots to the succession house or 
bark-bed pits, but w T here there is not this ac- 
commodation, they may be removed to the bark- 
bed of the main pinery. About October or 
November is the usual time for completing this 



PIXE PLANTS. 



151 



work, that they may remain where placed 
through the winter ; or if not convenient, to place 
them either in the main pinery, succession house, 
or bark pits, a new hot bed may be made to 
receive them if thought necessary ; but the heat 
of the old or new hot beds should always be 
kept up as long as possible by additional linings, 
and in cold weather, warm litter should be 
applied round the sides of the frames, and the 
glasses covered by night, and in frosty weather 
they should be covered with litter or matts, 
and in very severe weather both may be neces- 
sary, the mats being placed outside to fasten 
down the litter ; nevertheless, although I have 
given these instructions relative to the manage- 
ment of the pine plants in the hot beds, it is by 
far more preferable, both for convenience and 
safety, to remove them for the winter into the 
pinery or bark pits. 

GENERAL CULTURE OF FINES. 

Par. 4. — After giving plain yet sufficiently ela- 
borate directions for raising the plants, it will 



152 GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES. 

now become necessary to furnish instructions for 
their future and general cultivation. 

If the plants are raised at home, as directed 
in the last paragraph, I need not add any thing 
more on the subject of removal, but where pine 
plants are brought from a distance, it will be 
highly requisite that great care and attention 
should be paid to their removal ; and the season 
most proper, for the principal furnishing the 
pinery, being early in the autumn, (September 
or October is the most preferable, but not later 
than November,) will be the most desirable time 
to remove them ; but this will depend on circum- 
stances; for if not convenient in the autumn, 
they may be removed in the spring, about the 
end of March, or beginning of April, or almost 
at any time, but these are the two principal 
seasons. 

When removing pine plants a considerable 
distance, which are large, the leaves should be 
gently drawn together and tied, and then placed 
upright in a cart or waggon (a spring van is best) 
with plenty of soft straw or litter, which should 
be made firm as possible between the pots to 



GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES. 153 

keep them steady and the pots from breaking, 
and when they are sent by carriers or stage 
waggons, it will be necessary to pack them in 
baskets, if large plants, three or four in a large 
basket, or separately in a small one, and small 
plants may be packed in large baskets close 
together, as many as the basket will hold, so 
that the pots are kept apart by the litter, to pre- 
vent their breaking ; but in all cases in cold 
weather the plants should be protected by cover- 
ing ; if in an open cart or waggon without a tilt, 
a temporary tilt, may be formed over the plants, 
and covered with mats or a rick-cloth, or any 
other thing that will protect them from the cold. 
When sent in baskets, sticks should be placed 
round the edges, upright, and drawn together 
at the top, and tied, of sufficient height not to 
touch the plants, and then covered securely 
round with garden mats. Having given the 
foregoing directions for the removal of the plants^ 
their general management in the hothouse, will 
necessarily follow, and which I intend (fearless 
of all the new and various crotchets) to confine 
myself to one safe, tried, and straightforward 

ii 5 



154 GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES, 



method, in order that the reader may not be eon- 
fused with various methods under this head, 
The autumn being the season for preparing the 
pinery for the plants, or at least the time when 
the most full and necessary directions are re- 
quired, I will commence with instructions ac- 
cordingly. 

The pits should now be furnished with new 
tan, and some of the best of the old may be 
screened and mixed among the new, raising 
it several inches above the top of the pit to 
allow for settling ; and when it has become of 
a proper moderate heat, both in the principal 
pinery and the succession house, the pots should 
be plunged in the bark, placing the largest 
behind, and the smallest in front ; and when 
there is no succession house, or other conve- 
nience, the small plants may be placed in front 
of the large fruiting plants in the main or 
fruiting pinery, or at one end, placing the suc- 
cession plants next the fruiting, and the smaller 
or next in succession near the end, or in large 
pineries where there are two pits, the largest 
behind should be for the fruiting plants, and the 



GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES 155 



smaller in front may be allotted for the succes- 
sion and small plants. 

At the same time, where there are separate 
houses, it is more convenient, and generally 
more successful, for by having the succession 
and small plants in a separate house or in other 
bark pits, a more general moderate heat may 
be kept therein, than sometimes is required for 
the iruiting pines in winter, and more particu- 
larly towards spring, when it is necessary to 
forward the fruiting; moreover, the main stove 
will not require to be so much crowded, and 
the strong heat which is requisite for the 
fruiting plants, will sometimes cause the suc- 
cession plants to fruit in that early state, before 
they have size or strength sufficient to be of 
any valuable size ; and also the small plants will 
occasionally run to fruit through the same cause, 
without being of any use, and those which do 
not, are frequently also injured; and when the 
regular succession is thus injured, it will cause 
great disappointment for the following two 
years : although I have given these hints, to 
prevent the chance of disappointment where it 



156 GENERAL CULTURE OF PINES. 

can be avoided, yet it often happens that 
the whole will succeed together in the same 
house. 

By the foregoing practice, the plants will 
always be at three different stages of growth : 
first, the two years old or fruiting pines ; next 
in succession, the one year old plants ; and 
thirdly, the young plants just raised, by which 
method a regular annual supply will be con* 
tinually kept. 

When it is convenient, it is a desirable plan, 
before removing the plants to where they are to 
remain, to let the bark beds settle a little and 
ferment, and the glasses kept close to draw up 
the heat ; and when at a proper temperature, 
w r ith the assistance of a short, narrow, one- 
handed fork, open the bark, and plunge the 
pots as before directed ; but be careful should 
the heat become too powerful, to raise the pots 
up one-third or half way, to prevent the roots 
from burning, and replace them again up to the 
rim when the excessive heat has subsided ; and 
if it be necessary to plunge the plants while 
the heat is too strong, they may at first be 



ORDER OF FRUITING. 



157 



plunged only one-third or half-way up the pots, 
and lower them after as before stated. When 
the bark beds are thus furnished with the plants, 
the house should be shut close, and in cold 
weather add a moderate fire heat in the evenings 
to more effectually warm the interior. 

AT FULL GROWTH, ORDER OF FRUITING, &C. 

Par. 5. — The two years old pines generally 
attain their full growth, and the fruit come to 
perfection from June till October. The fruit 
cannot easily ripen without being detected by the 
powerful scent it produces in the house, and 
may be then observed, by its changing colour, 
most sorts turning yellow, and they should be 
cut as soon as they appear ripe, otherwise they 
will be become too mdllow, and lose much of 
that rich flavour so peculiar to this fruit. I 
have above stated, that they generally ripen 
from June till October, but the principal part 
ripen in July and August, and some will occa- 
sionally ripen in the winter and spring. 



158 POTS THE PROPER SIZES. 



POTS THE PROPER SIZES. 

Par. 6. — Pines being both raised, and grown 
to maturity in pots, it will be proper to give 
directions relative to them, and the names of 
sizes as they may be obtained in casts from the 
potteries. The smallest size generally used for 
planting the suckers and crowns in, are called 
forty-eights, meaning forty-eight to the cast. 
The next size for the first shifting is thirty-twos, 
being thirty-two to the cast; the plants being fit 
to shift out of the first into this size in a few 
months ; the early or strong grown ones may he 
shifted the same season, or the whole in the fol- 
lowing spring. The next size are called twenty- 
fours, or twenty-four to the cast ; this is the 
proper size to shift them into until the next 
shifting season ; but sometimes, when the plants 
are not over large, they are allowed to remain in 
this size for fruiting. The next and largest size, 
generally used for finally shifting the pines, is 
called sixteens, being sixteen to the cast. The 
seasons and ways of shifting I intend to give 
more fully in another paragraph. It is highly 



DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES. 159 

necessary that the pots should be sound and well 
burnt, otherwise they are very apt to rot and 
tumble to pieces ; indeed, there is a very great 
difference in the quality of pots, but in the neigh- 
bourhood of London, very excellent red pots 
may be obtained at half-a-crown or three shillings 
per cast, the price per cast being the same for 
all sizes. 

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES, WITH OBSER- 
VATIONS RELATIVE TO THEIR NATURE AND 
CULTURE. 

Par. 7. — -It would seem, that the different va- 
rieties of pines have greatly increased in number 
within the last few years, but it is doubtful 
whether many of those are not renamed, with a 
view which some have of gleaning a little extra 
notoriety in the horticultural kingdom, by be- 
coming the supposed original propagator or 
introducer of a new fruit ; indeed, the system 
has become so prevalent, that it has caused 
considerable confusion in the naming of many 
kinds of fruits. I shall therefore proceed to 
furnish a plain original list of names, with their 



160 DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES. 



forms, colours, and nature of growth, and also 
botanically, a list as now described by modern 
horticulturalists. 

Oval, or Queen Pine Apple 
Conical Pine 
Black Antigua Pine 

Brown leaved Sugar-loaf Pine, or Pyramidal 

Green-leaved, purple-striped, smooth-edged ditto 

Late Mountserrat Pine 

King-Pine, smooth green leaves, large fruit 

Silver-striped leaved pine, the fruit also variegated. 

Gold-striped leaved Pine, {scarce ) 

Providence Pine 

Havannah Pine 

Domingo Pine 

Barbadoes Pine 

Bog warp Pine 

Shining smooth leaved Pine 

Green-leaved, purple-striped, smooth-edged 

In addition to the above may be added, al- 
though not common, the white flesh pine, the 
red flesh pine, and the green flesh pine, the 
other varieties being, w T hen ripe, of a pale yellow, 
green yellow, golden yellow, and olive-coloured, 

I will now give a list as known in the botanical 



DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF PINES. 161 



world, their time of introduction, and from what 
countries they came. 

BROMELIA. PINE APPLE. HEXANDRIA, MONOGYNIA. 

Introduced, 



1 Ananas Common S. America 1690 

2 Semiserrata Semiserate 

3 Lucida Shining-leaved 

4 Lingulata Tongue-leaved 1759 

5 Bracteata Red-bracted Jamaica 1785 

6 Fastuosa Noble S. America 1815 

7 Melanantha Black-floured Trinidad 1823 

8 Nudicaulis Naked-stalked 
Pyramidalis S. America 

9 Hookeri Hooker's 

Nudicaulis Trinidad 1822 

10 Sessiliflora Sessile-flowered S. America 1824 

11 Acanga Recurved 

12 Sylvestris Wild 1820 

13 Karatas Upright-leaved W. Indies 1739 

14 Humilis Dwarf 1789 

15 Pallida Pale S. America 1810 

16 Pinguin Broad-leaved W. Indies 1699 

17 Chrysantha Yellow-flowered S. America 1820 

18 Exudans Clammy 1816 

19 Paniculigera Panicled W. Indies 1822 



162 



METHOD OF MAKING 



METHOD OF MAKING THE BARK BED ; ITS GENE- 
RAL MANAGEMENT AND UTILITY. 

Par. 8. — Tan or bark may be obtained at any 
season of the year from the tanners, it being the 
bark of the oak cut or ground small for the purpose 
of tanning hides, and after its properties for that 
purpose are exhausted, it is thrown from the tan 
vats, and then becomes a most useful article for 
the hothouse ; but always select that which is the 
most fresh, or at least such as has not been too 
long out of the vats to have lost its strength and 
fermenting qualities, and make choice of the 
moderately-large cut or middling, in preference 
to the very small bark, which decays sooner 
than the larger cut tan, and likewise sooner 
becomes earthy, or in a dungy state. 

In the neighbourhood of London, particularly 
in the borough of Southwark, any quantity may 
be obtained, there being many large tanneries. 
The price generally charged for the bark, is 
about five shillings for forty bushels, and so on 
in proportion, according to the size of your cart 
or waggon, or quantity required ; and when ob- 



THE BARK BED, &C. 



163 



tained, if it is very fresh and of a raw nature, 
place it in a heap for a week or more, to cause it 
to ferment and heat ; and if very wet. then 
spread it out for a few days in fine weather to 
dry : but when obtained in a proper state, being 
only moderately moist, it may be conveyed direct 
to the hothouse, and placed into the pit, as soon 
as it may be wanted for making the bark bed= 
A tanner's fork is the most proper tool for the 
purpose of shifting the bark from place to place, 
with four or five times or more : but a common 
dung fork, with the tines near together, will be a 
good substitute, when the former is not at hand. 

The tan when carried to the, pit, should be 
forked up well and regular, to form the bed, 
which should be raised a few inches above the 
top of the pit, to allow for settling. It will then 
ferment, and will be at a proper heat generally 
in about a week or ten days to receive the pine 
plants : but sometimes the heat will then be too 
powerful, which must be carefully attended to. 
This may be ascertained by running sticks some 
distance down into the bed, and draw them up 
daily, and feel the ends : and when the heat has 



164 SORTS OF FUEL FOR FIRE HEAT. 



become moderate, the pots should be plunged 
therein ; or should occasion require the intro- 
duction of the plants before the violent heat has 
sufficiently subsided, they may be plunged only 
a little or half way, according to the temperature 
of the bed, and plunged after to the rims, when 
the heat is proper. 

SORTS OF FUEL FOR FIRE HEAT. 

Par. 9. — The different sorts of fuel will greatly 
depend on the situation, but when convenient, 
coals and coal cinders, or coke, are to be pre- 
ferred, making the most regular and durable 
fires, requiring less trouble in the management, 
and the house kept in a steady and proper degree 
of heat, with less attention than most other sorts 
of fuel require : but in those places where the 
above are scarce, wood, peat, &c. may be sub- 
stituted. Also at the large tanners they make 
bark peat from the waste of old tan, which may 
be used with tolerable good effect. 

REGULATION OF HEAT, THERMOMETER, &C. 

Par. 10. — As the regulation of heat is one of 



REGULATION OF HEAT. && 



165 



the most essential points in forcing, a good ther- 
mometer is necessary in the pinery and all other 
forcing houses, that the heat may be properly 
ascertained, and without which a proper standard 
degree, cannot be so conveniently maintained, 
This should be hung up in the centre of the 
place, with the back towards the sun, in an up- 
right position, that the spirit in the tube may be 
regulated only by the internal heat in the place, 
and the heat kept as regular as possible during 
the various forcing months, in such advances as 
will be directed. 

In the month of January, the thermometer 
requires the greatest nicety in its arrangement 
in every description of glass house ; indeed, if 
properly understood, it will greatly serve as a 
guide to all seasons of the vear. As the davs 
lengthen, the pinery will require a higher tem- 
perature, from 50 to 55 degrees, and before the 
end of the month to 60, advancing the tempera- 
ture in proportion as the spring advances, until 
it reaches 80, about May ; and for the main 
fruiting pinery, 65 degrees, or rather higher, 



166 REGULATION OF HEAT, &C. 

may be then kept as a standard heat, during the 
time of ripening. 

In January, if not done before, the vinery 
should be put in motion for early grapes in June, 
with a gentle heat at first, from about 45 to 50 
degrees, (which is better than being too warm 
at first,) increasing it in about a week 5 degrees, 
and in about another week to 55 or 60, and be- 
fore the end of the month to 65, and the tempe- 
rature may then be kept up as high as is requisite 
for the pine stove. Also, other fruit houses should 
be now made active, beginning with a low tem- 
gerature, about 40, and not more thau 47 or 
50 during the month of January, nor yet much 
higher until the fruit is set, 60 being the stan- 
dard heat allowed, and ought not at any time to 
exceed 65 ; this may be taken as a guide to 
most other fruit tree forcing. 

Although rather foreign to this work, I may 
be permitted to remark, that the greenhouse 
will at this season require the greatest atten- 
tion, and the nicest management, particularly 
as regards the heating thereof, much mischief 
being frequently done to the plants by making 



BARK-BED AND FIRE-HEAT. 167 

the house too hot. The temperature during 
the month of January should be kept as low as 
about 33 or 35 degrees; generally, the aid of 
artificial heat is required, only to be sufficient to 
keep out the frost at any time. 

The management of conservatories is widely 
different to that of the greenhouse ; indeed, it 
would be almost presumption to attempt to lay 
down any fixed rule for heating them; their 
situations and aspects, the time of furnishing, 
and nature of the plants with which they are 
furnished, being so diversified, that it must be 
left to the judgment of those who have the care 
of them. 

OF BARK-BED AND FIRE-HEAT. 

Par. 11. From October till May the pinery 
will require the assistance of fire-heat, as well 
as the constant heat from the bark bed. When 
the weather becomes cold, frosty, or foggy, in 
the autumn, fires should be made every evening 
about sunset, and also of cold mornings ; the 
evening fires should be continued a sufficient 
time to heat the flues to such an eligible degree 



168 



BARK-BED AND FIRE-HEAT. 



of warmth, that will keep the house in a proper 
temperature until morning : this will be more 
especially necessary in the fruiting- house, to 
forward the plants for fruiting ; but fire-heat is 
also necessary, as the weather may require, in 
the succession departments; also in hard, frosty, 
and severe cutting weather, the house will re- 
quire the assistance of fire-heat all day ; but be 
sure not to heat the house immoderately, to force 
pines to an improper growth, but keep the hear 
as regular as possible. 

About January and February the heat may 
be triflingly increased in the fruiting-house, to 
forward plants for fruiting, as at this season the 
pines generally begin to show and set their 
fruit, at which time they require a lively bottom 
heat, and a more general {but mark) yet mode- 
rate degree of fire-heat. 

The fires may be kept supported till eight, 
nine, or ten o'clock at night, during the winter, 
and in severe weather cover the last fire over 
with ashes, that it may continue to cause a mo- 
derate heat the greater part of the night, and 
also in severe weather the fires should be at- 



AIR AND WATER. 



tended to early in the morning; but in mild 
weather, and when the interior of the house is 
sufficiently warm, the morning fires may be dis- 
pensed with. 

GIVING AIR AND WATER AT DIFFERENT SEA- 
SONS. 

Par. 12. — During the winter season very mo- 
derate admissions of air will only be necessary, 
to be increased as the spring and warm weather 
advances, and so on in proportion throughout 
the year; but this must be regulated according 
to the fineness of the weather at all seasons; 
in the winter it should be admitted on warm 
sunny days, in the warmest part thereof, by 
opening the glasses an inch or two or more, for 
an hour or two, more or less as the weather suits ; 
or occasionally as the heat of the house may 
require. 

The pines likewise require very moderate 
watering in winter, particularly in damp wea- 
ther ; in the depth of winter, only once in a fort- 
night or three weeks, when the earth appears 
dry, and then only enough to keep it in a very 



170 HOT WATER AND STEAM. 

moderately moist state, and at this season the 
water should be given to the earth only ; but as 
the spring advances, and warm weather succeeds, 
the waterings should succeed in proportion ; at 
all times keep the plants free from decayed 
leaves. 

It is also very desirable to keep the water in 
the hothouse, or to have it about the same 
warmth as the temperature of the pinery. 

HOT WATER AND STEAM, THE GENERAL USES 
THEREOF IN FORCING, WITH EXFLANATORY 
REMARKS. 

Par. 13. — The vast scientific improvements 
which of late years have so wonderfully developed 
themselves, none stands forth more prominent 
than those produced by fire and water. 

When we look at the power of steam, which 
is produced from water and caused by the heat 
of fire, and view the stupendous undertakings 
now in progress, through the skill and appa- 
rently ardent desire of scientific men to vie with 
each other, must hand the nineteenth century 
down to posterity as a gem of science unparal- 



HOT WATER AND STEAM. 



171 



leled in the history of the world; neither is the 
spirit of competition greater among men of sci- 
ence, than the will of the public is ready, not 
only to afford their meed of praise, but in almost 
all apparently practicable undertakings, for the 
convenience and comfort of the public, gene- 
rously have they responded with the means of 
carrying those improvements into effect. 

Steam as regards hothouse forcing, has for 
some years been attended with the most brilliant 
results, especially as regards pine growing, but 
this is doomed to give way to that which pro- 
duced it, namely, hot water, which is now ad- 
mitted by all whose opinion is worth receiving, 
to be superior to all other modes of heating. 

At first I entertained doubts about the hot 
water having the proper effect in assisting to 
ripen fruit equal to the fire-heat of a flue, until 
from study on the evaporations of artificial as 
well as natural atmospheres, has led me to the 
conclusion that hot water heating for every de- 
partment of hothouse forcing, must be, with 
proper management, attended with unqualified 
success. 

i 2 



172 



HOT WATER AND STEAM. 



The constitution of the atmosphere has a con- 
siderable influence on the growth of plants, and 
more particularly its relation to moisture. The 
variable state of the moisture in the air, was not 
registered with any degree of accuracy, until 
within these few years, which improvement may 
be attributed chiefly to instruments which have 
been invented for the purpose ; but^ even now, 
none of them are so perfect as it would be de- 
sirable to render them. 

When air is cooled below a certain degree, it 
deposits a portion of the moisture it contains, in 
the form of dew, and when air deposits dew, it 
is saturated with moisture, therefore, air always 
contains that quantity of moisture which would 
saturate the same quantity of air when its tem- 
perature is reduced down to the point at which 
it deposits dew. 

The ordinary state of the atmosphere, as 
respects moisture in this country, is extremely 
variable : but the mean result of many obser- 
vations of the thermometer, and also the dew 
point, shows that the temperature of deposition 
and the actual temperature follow each other in 



HOT WATER AND STEAM. 



173 



a regular manner. The difference between the 
actual temperature and that of the dew point, is 
least in January, and increases gradually till 
June, when it again declines to its winter state. 

Having studied with considerable care and 
attention the effects of the atmospheric air in 
all its relations to vegetation, it has brought me 
to the conclusion, that the internal air of a 
forcing house is less liable to suffer by hot watei 
heat ; being almost free from any noxious efflu- 
via which may arise from other heating ; more- 
over it is a dry heat, which is essential to the 
ripening of fruit, and yet when necessary, a fine 
dew may at any time be raised in the house by 
watering over the pipes when heated. 

Although I have spoken thus much in praise 
of hot water heating, let me not be understood 
by so doing, to underrate the heating by flues, 
which has stood the test, and proved so emi- 
nently successful for generations past ; but de- 
cidedly I am of opinion, that for general forcing, 
hot water is the most convenient, safe, and eco- 
nomical mode of heating extant ; added to which, 
it is with very little trouble, and in a very short 



174 HOT WATER AND STEAM. 

time, made either powerful or weak as the tempe- 
rature of the house may require. 

The manner the flues have been directed to 
be erected in the different hothouses, may serve 
greatly as a guide for placing the pipes for hot 
water heating, they should be placed along 
such parts of the house, (particularly along 
next the front classes,) where the greatest heat 
is required to resist vigorous frost and severe 
cold weather ; and if a sufficient quantity of 
pipe be allowed, the temperature may be raised 
to any necessary height required at any season 
of the year. I scarcely need remark, that 
water will always find its level, therefore, when 
a pipe with returns is placed in the house, the 
return or returns can be carried, either one over 
the other from the same, or run parallel, side 
by side horizontally, and be thus conveyed 
round the house. 

The fire-place for the boiler may be con- 
structed at one end, with one pipe fixed in the 
boiler, which will act as a funnel to the whole of 
the pipe, with its returns, and cause the pipes 
to be continually charged, by having the boiler 



HOT WATER AND STEAM. 



175 



raised a sufficient height above the pipes, to 
keep them constantly supplied ; which, by the 
heat of the fire, causing the water to keep on 
the move, will gradually force through all the 
pipes, and cause the last pipe, or further end of 
the return, which is also fixed into the boiler, 
as a funnel to convey the water back into the 
boiler. 

This simple (and I may add elegant) mode 
of heating with hot water, when compared to 
to flues, is so easy to manage, the trouble so 
light, and the expense attending it being in- 
finitely less than any other method, will, no 
doubt, eventually supersede every other mode 
of heating. 

When the hothouse is very long, with divisions, 
(the same as directed for heating by flues,) it may 
be requisite to have more fire-places and boilers, 
which may be done at convenient distances at 
the back. 

When the boiler is once filled, and like- 
wise, all the pipes thereto attached, (they, 
being below the top of the boiler,) the principal 
trouble will be to attend to the fire, and occa- 
sionally fill up the boiler. Should the tempe- 



176 



HOT WATER A]SD STEAM. 



rature of the house be too high, the damper 
or plate of iron, which is formed in the construc- 
tion of the fire-place, can be put on to reduce 
the heat, and he removed again when required. 

The size of the pipes may vary according to 
taste, but to be uniform, the size of the house 
ought in some measure to be taken into conside- 
ration ; still, in all cases where the pipes are 
large, the returns will not require to be so 
many, as two may do instead of three or four, 
but those of a moderate size, according to the 
extent of the house, will, while they answer 
every purpose, appear most in unison. But this 
part will require the judgment to be exercised, of 
those who have the superintendance. 

There are, as a matter of course, some 
splashes of science sent forth by the compe- 
titors of hot water heating, each recommending 
his apparatus, mode of contrivance^ fixings 
&c, as the best ; and while such emulation is 
afloat, and hot water heating for these purposes 
may be considered almost in its infancy ; I 
think it would be wrong to speak discouraging 
of either, as sometimes the most simple thing 
to appearance turns out the best ; and what is 



HOT WATER AND STEAM. 



177 



still more to be desired, frequently leads to 
further improvements; at the same tinie, although 
it can be fixed by any one, who has a knowledge 
of such business, yet there is a great difference 
in the abilities of tradesmen, this must be ad- 
mitted, even in setting a copper, or forming any 
other fire-place out of the common way ; there- 
fore, those persons who may wish to excel 
in this particular branch, connected with garden- 
ing architecture, must make it their study 
before they will become celebrated. 

A thing may appear easy when accomplished, 
or to see another performing it, yet none but 
ignorant men will attempt to underrate another's 
science ; those who do, are generally weak, and 
finding they cannot excel, endeavour to gloss 
over their own stupidity, by striving to dete- 
riorate the science of others; and this is fre- 
quently done by (what I consider, the most 
damning of all human recommendations) faint 
praise. 

Therefore, entertaining these ideas, I have 
confined myself to recommending such methods, 
which I know can be depended on, and which 

i 5 



178 RAISING PINES IN HOTBEDS, 

will, with proper management, prove successful, 
leaving all others, without prejudice, in the bands 
of the public, and to future improvements. 

RAISING PINES IN HOTBEDS. 

Par. 14. — Pine plants may be raised, and for- 
warded to a fruiting state in hotbeds made of dung : 
the frames should be deep, and the top lights 
well glazed, the beds should be made substantial, 
from three to four feet deep, and in a sheltered 
situation, (but where they will have the full 
command of the sun,) from one, two or more 
light frames ; having from eight to twelve inches 
of tan on the top of dung, to plunge the pots in ; 
the depth must be regulated according to the 
size of the pots ; when the heat declines, strong 
linings of hot dung should be applied, and 
in winter the frames defended with straw litter, 
and mats, as described elsewhere ; but as this 
practice is more generally resorted to for the 
convenience only of raising the young plants, 
it does not at all follow that they may be 
required to be kept in the hot beds during 
the winter. It will be necessary to be careful 



BARK BED IN THE PINERY. 179 

that the strong heat has subsided, before 
plunging the pots ; this will generally be avoided 
by making the bed ten or twelve days prior 
to plunging the plants, and testing the heat of 
the bed by sticks run therein, in the usual 
way, the bed should be levelled, and the bark put 
upon the dung two or three days before the 
plants are plunged to get warm, and when the 
plants are plunged, put on the glasses, and 
treat them as directed in other bark beds. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE BARK BED IN THE 
PINERY. 

Par. 15. — The importance of bark bed heat in 
the pinery has led me to give an exclusive para- 
graph on its general management ; and although 
part of what is here stated may be found in the 
directions in the foregoing paragraphs, I trust 
the present may not be considered tautologous, 
having avoided as much as possible repetition. 

The new bark beds having been made in the 
autumn and managed as before directed, will 
generally continue sufficient heat till about 
Christmas, when it will require to have the 



180 



BARK BED IH THE PINERY. 



heat renewed, by taking up the pots, and fork- 
ing up the tan to the bottom of the pit, and 
if the bed is much reduced by sinking, &e. a 
about one-third or fourth of fresh bark should 
be added, and forked up with the old. 

This work should be performed by opening 
a trench in the bed at one end, and carry the 
bark from the first trench to the other end, 
ready to fill up with, then fork the bed 
thoroughly over, mixing the new tan with old, 
and directly replunge the pots therein ; this 
will revive the declining heat, and cause it 
to continue lively for two or three months 
longer ; likewise, this attention to the bark bed 
in mid winter, will greatly assist the plants in 
their advancing spring growth, and more par- 
ticularly the fruiting plants, which generally 
begin to show their fruit buds about January 
and February, which may be discovered by the 
advancing small crown of leaves ; indeed, ar 
this season, it is very essential to have a lively 
bottom heat about the roots, as it will greatly 
promote the regular production of the fruit. 

In March, or beginning of April, the bark beds 



MANAGEMENT OF THE 



181 



will require another revival after the foregoing 
instructions, in order to forward the fruit and 
cause it to swell as it arrives to maturity ; the 
size of the fruit being one of its chief recom- 
mendatory properties, and much depends on the 
care, attention, and skill, which the fruiting 
department receives during the time the pines 
are swelling. 

The bark beds for the succession plants will 
also require similar treatment to keep them 
always in a kindly growing state ; the bottom 
heat never should be allowed to become too 
much reduced for any continuance, as that 
would cause the plants to become stunted, there- 
fore a regular lively bottom heat is highly 
necessary at those seasons: and as the young 
plants will require shifting in the spring, the 
revival of the bark bed may be attended to at 
the same time. The beds, after the fore^oingr 
management, will not require further attention 
in this way until July or August, unless the 
heat should sooner decline, which, through 
inferior bark and other causes, it will sometimes 
do ; then fork up the bark, and about the 



182 



BARK BED LN THE PINERY. 



beginning of August, the first succession plants 
should be finally shifted into the large pots for 
fruiting ; then the bark bed should have the 
last renewal, with a little fresh tan added and 
forked up together about half way down, at this 
hot season, will be sufficient, for fear of causing 
too great heat to scorch the roots. 

But in all renewals of the bark beds, when 
any considerable quantity of new tan has been 
supplied, or in new made beds, great attention 
is requisite to discover any tendency to violent 
heat ; and when that appears, immediately draw 
up the pots, sufficiently to prevent the roots of 
the plants from burning, as the scorching of the 
roots frequently proves very injurious, and 
sometimes entirely ruins the plants. 

It may happen sometimes in winter not to be 
convenient when required to renew the beds 
with fresh bark ; in that case it is an advisable 
plan to plunge the pots two or three inches over 
the rims, that in the absence of such renewal of 
the beds, the roots of the plants may receive 
every possible advantage from the old tan. 

It is likewise necessary both at the time of 



REVIVAL OF THE BARK-BED. 



183 



making the new beds in autumn, or of either of 
the renewals in winter or spring, to keep up a 
tolerable good fire heat until that of the bed 
sufficiently rises ; also in the spring shifting, and 
the bark bed being renewed, a moderately good 
fire heat will greatly assist the plants in taking 
fresh root, and which should be kept up until 
the heat of the bed rises to the top, 

OCCASIONAL REVIVAL OF THE BARK -BED. 

If the heat of the bark-bed should have 
greatly declined (particularly in the depth of 
winter) before it is the usual time, or convenient 
for the regular renewal, a quantity of fresh bark 
may be added at top, and forked up with the 
old, then plunge the pots again directly ; this 
system may, if necessary, be repeated again 
towards spring, but in the fruiting department; 
should the heat decline later in the season, or 
during the general fruiting, it may be renewed 
without disturbing the fruiting pines ; for when 
they are far advanced, the removal of the pots is 
apt to check the swelling of the fruit, therefore 
take out some of the old tan from between the 



184 WINTER MANAGEMENT OF PIXES. 



pots and add new in its place, this will revive 
the heat and prove very beneficial. 

WINTER MANAGEMENT OF PINE-. 

Par. 17. — During the winter season, very mo- 
derate admissions of air should be allowed, and 
very little water will be required, particularly 
through the months of November, December, 
and January, the plants being during- that period 
not in a state to require it, as they make little or 
no progress in their growth ; therefore merely 
apply a little water to the earth in the pots, when 
it appears dry, probably not more than once in 
two or three weeks, as the dry or moist state of 
the weather will dictate ; but when the plants 
begin to move, towards the end of January, and 
in February, or they begin to shew fruit, the 
watering will require to be more frequent. The 
air should be admitted only on mild days, while 
the sun is out, and that in the middle of the day, 
from half an hour to an hour or two or more, as 
the state of the weather will permit; but shut 
the house close when a cold unkind air prevails, 
and so be guided on till the spring. Observe 



WINTER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 185 

also in winter to keep good fires every evening 
and cold mornings, and in hard frosty weather 
they should be continued moderately throughout 
the day ; and when the weather is very severe, 
both the front and top glasses should be covered 
with mats or shutters every night. Also when 
the frost is extremely severe, and not any sun, 
the covering should be continued night and day ; 
or where the house is furnished (which is the 
most convenient method) with a painted canvass 
fixed on rollers at the top, this should be let 
down, which saves much trouble in covering the 
top glasses. 

SPRING MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 

Par. 18. — As the spring advances, and the 
warm weather ensues, give air more freely, and 
waterings more frequent, the latter about once a 
week or more, if the weather is very warm. This 
will promote a strong growth in the plants, and 
increase the size of the fruit ; but during the 
cutting easterly winds in March and April, which 
this climate is so subject to, be careful not to 
admit too much air to chill the house, as at this 



186 STRING MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 

season, when the plants and fruit are advancing 
in growth, it is very requisite to keep the house 
in as regular a temperature as possible. 

About March or April, it is of great advantage 
to the fruiting plants to draw out some of the old 
mould from the top of the pots, and fill them up 
with fresh earth or compost. It will promote a 
free growth in the plants, and prove very bene- 
ficial to the fruit. 

SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 

Par. 19. — The latter part of the spring treat- 
ment must necessarily run into the summer 
management of the pines ; generally, therefore, 
about May, the extra heat, whether by fire, hot 
water, or steam, with which the pinery is heated, 
may be discontinued until October ; yet the bark 
bed must be supported with a lively bottom heat, 
as before directed, which, after being made up 
properly in the spring, the bark bed will gene- 
rally produce a tolerable heat till August ; but 
should the heat have greatly declined, about June 
the beds may be forked up, and a small quantity 
of fresh bark added, forking it up only about half 



SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 187 

the depth of the bed in this hot season ; if new 
tan is added, it will cause a sufficient heat to 
promote the regular swelling of the fruit till 
they arrive at maturity. 

The succession plants, by the same rule, will 
require the same attention to assist them in their 
growth, observing in hot weather to give plenty 
of air daily, with waterings two or three times 
a- week; and about August the first succession 
plants for fruiting the following year should be 
shifted into the large size pots, to finally remain 
therein. Also observe in the shifting that the 
ballg remain entire. Then fork up the bed, only 
about half-way, with about one-fourth of new 
bark added ; for it often occurs at this hot season, 
when the bed is forked to the bottom, that the 
heat becomes too violent. The pots should then 
be again plunged, and carefully watered, and 
then treated as before directed, which will cause 
them to grow freely till October. 

Likewise about August, or early in September, 
if the small succession plants, such as the early 
planted suckers and crowns of the same year, 
have made considerable growth, they should be 



188 SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 

shifted into the next size pots, and plunged again 
without delay into the renewed bark bed. 

It should be borne in mind, that at all times 
during the continuance of hot weather, that plenty 
of air should be admitted into the house till six 
or seven in the evening, or longer if the weather 
is very hot. This is very important, both for 
strengthening the plants and the swelling of the 
fruit ; and when the sun is very scorching, it is 
of advantage to shade the pines for two or three 
hours in the middle of the day. This may be 
done, in the absence of fixed blinds or rollers, 
by spreading mats over the top glasses. The 
waterings also, during the very hot weather, 
should be repeated two or three times a week. 
This should be given towards evening or early 
in the morning, and if possible use river or rain 
water (the latter is to be preferred) in preference 
to spring water ; but where the latter only can 
be obtained, let it be exposed to the open air 
some time before using. The plants require 
while in a free growing state, that the earth in 
the pots should be kept moderately moist ; but 
[mark) when the fruit is beginning to ripen, then 



SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF PINES. 189 

begin to water more sparingly, as too much 
moisture at that time will deteriorate the flavour ; 
and also as the heat of the summer declines, so 
must the air and waterings decline in proportion. 

When the fruit has advanced to a large size, it 
is frequently necessary, in order to keep them 
upright, to place sticks to support them ; and 
sometimes, to encourage the growth of the fruit, 
the suckers at the bottom, where they have ad- 
vanced to a tolerable size for planting, say eight 
inches or more, may be removed, (prepared and 
planted as before directed,) as these large suckers 
take away much of the strength of the plants, 
and 'thereby deprive the fruit of that support 
which, when removed, it will receive ; but the 
small suckers may remain till the fruit is ripe, 
and be treated according to the instructions in 
the third paragraph. 

As the fruit advances to maturity, and which 
for the most part is from June till October, care 
should be taken to watch their ripening, which 
may be discovered by their changing colour, 
most sorts turning yellow. Then they should be 
cut, otherwise, by remaining after they have 



190 OBSERVATIONS ON SHIFTING PINES, &C. 

arrived at full maturity, they become too mellow, 
and lose much of their peculiar delicious flavour. 

The autumn or October management being- 
so clearly laid down in former paragraphs, it will 
be unnecessary to introduce (separately) any 
further observations on that head, although in 
the next paragraph some useful directions will be 
given. 

OBSERVATIONS ON SHIFTING PINES, INCLUDING 
DIRECTIONS FOR AUTUMN MANAGEMENT. 

Par. 20. — Before leaving the subject, I may 
be excused for offering a few additional remarks 
on shifting pines generally. 

The succession plants will generally require 
shifting twice a year, but the fruiting plants 
must not be again disturbed in the pots, after the 
late summer, or what is generally termed the 
autumn shifting, prior to their fruiting the fol- 
lowing season ; unless they become infected with 
any disease in their early fruiting state, which is 
sometimes the case ; and if such disease should 
baffle the remedies applied for its cure, it may 
then be necessary, as a last resource, to endeavor 



OBSERVATIONS ON SHIFTING PINES, &C. 191 

to recover them from the disorder, by shifting 
them into some fresh mould or compost; but 
this should not be resorted to, but as the last 
expedient. 

When you intend to commence the general 
shifting, always have your pots in sufficient 
quantity, of the different sizes, ready to com- 
plete the work ; also your compost as handy 
as possible, that the shifting may be finished, 
and the pots replunged with all convenient ex- 
pedition. If the plants are healthy, when 
turned out of the pots, they only require a little 
of the old mould rubbed off the edges of the 
fop of the ball, or occasionally a long or matted 
cluster of outside fibres may be pruned off, and 
then immediately replanted in the next size pot, 
placing first a piece of tile (some prefer putting 
several pieces) over the hole in the pot, then 
some fresh compost in the bottom, and after 
placing the plant in the centre, fill up the sides 
with the same, gently shaking and pressing it 
down all round, covering over the top of the 
old ball, about an inch thick, the pots being 



19*2 OBSERVATIONS OX SHIFTING PINES. &C. 

filled very near to the top when finished, and 
then give them a moderate watering. 

In the spring shifting, it is thought by some 
a good plan to shake all the mould from the 
roots, and trim the fibres short ; and when the 
plants appear unhealthy, the system may not be 
disregarded, for by cutting away all black roots 
of a decayed nature', and placing the plants in 
entire fresh earth, it will frequently restore 
them, and cause them with proper treatment to 
become healthy and flourishing; in all cases as 
soon as the shifting is completed, directly re- 
plunge the pots, and shut the pinery close to 
draw up the heat of the bark bed. 

About the middle of August, the large plants, 
either of one or two years growth, having ad- 
vanced to a large size, and of sufficient strength 
for immediate succession, or capable of produc- 
ing fruit in perfection the following year, should 
now be shifted into larger pots, wherein they are 
finally to remain for fruiting, and also any others 
that appear to require larger pots. 

This being the season for the last potting of 
the first succession*" plants, for fruiting the next 



OBSERVATION ON SHIFTING PINES, &C. 193 

year, they will require the largest sized pots 
allotted for that purpose; those called twenty- 
fours for the middling size plants, and sixteens 
for the strong grown plants, and sometimes for 
very vigorous grown plants the next size pot 
called twelves, may be selected for shifting them 
into. 

Likewise at this shifting it will be necessary 
to provide new tan, to add about one- third or 
fourth of what the pit contains, upon the old, as 
soon as the plants are taken up for shifting, and 
fork it well up together about half way the 
depth of the bed 3 or where the top of the bed has 
become very much decayed and earthy, take away 
a portion of the worst before the new bark is 
added ; this should be done without delay, to be 
ready to receive the plants as soon as re-potted. 

At this season, if more convenient, and the 
weather is warm and fine, the shifting 1 may take 
place in the open air, near the pinery, having 
the pots and compost ready for the purpose; but 
in the house, should the state of the weather re- 
quire it ; turn the plants out one at a time, and 
immediately transplant it into the new pot. 

K 



194 OBSERVATION ON SHIFTING PINES, &C. 

first removing a little of the outside mould from 
the top edges and sides of the balls, and prune 
away any dry or decayed outside fibres ; but if 
any of the plants at this shifting appear in an 
unhealthy state, they may be shaken wholly out 
of the mould, the roots properly pruned, and then 
potted in entire new compost; if the sun is 
powerful after they are replunged in the bark 
bed, afford the plants a slight shade for about a 
week in the heat of the day, by throwing mats 
singly over the top glasses j by that time the 
plants will take fresh root ; after that, air should 
be given every warm day by opening some of 
the front or top glasses, or both if the weather 
is hot. 

The revival of the bark bed, as before di- 
rected, at this shifting, will be sufficient to carry 
the plants well on through this their principal 
growing season till October, at which time their 
proper management has been clearly laid down 
in a former paragraph, (see Par. 4). 



REMARKS ON INSECTS. 



INSECTS, REMARKS THEREON, WITH INSTRUC- 
TIONS HOW TO PREVENT THEM FROM BEING 
INJURIOUS. 

Par. 21.— Pines, like other plants, are liable 
to be infested with small insects of several kinds/ 
and are frequently, if not attended to in due 
time, very injurious, causing them to become 
sickly, and in such a stunted state that neither 
the plants or fruit make scarcely any progress ; 
some only attack the leaves, but others will in- 
fest the plants all over, even down to the roots; 
the insects are generally very diminutive, some 
appearing like dust, and barely visible, and 
some resembling small scales, while others ap- 
pear like small bugs; if these are not attended 
to when they first make their appearance, they 
will increase very fast, and soon spread over the 
whole of the plants ; it will therefore be neces- 
sary to use every means possible to destroy them 
on their first appearance in the pinery. 

Various causes have been assigned for the 
pinery becoming foul; some will say the plants 
were diseased when brought from another house, 
thereby laying the blame on the former grower; 



196 REMARKS ON INSECTS. 

others maintain different opinions ; but if I may 
venture an opinion, and considering the vast at- 
tention I have paid to the subject, particularly 
the nature, habits, and effects insects have upon 
the vegetable kingdom, I think I may be allowed 
so to do. It is chiefly through bad culture and 
uncleardiness. 

Having made bold to hazard this opinion, 
I will give my reasons for so doing, taking 
as the first example the animal creation. It 
will be found that bad food, bad drink, and 
continued filth, (indeed, it is allowed by all who 
have any knowledge of the subject,) will cause 
disease and stunted growth, the human frame 
not exempt, which, through debility of constitu- 
tion and filth, will frequently cause insects to 
breed ; and if the animal frame is thus liable to 
breed vermin, can it be surprising that the vege- 
table tribe should do the same, through being 
first diseased, or that pines should become, what 
is familiarly termed, lousy, any more than the 
human frame should be subject to the leprosy of 
that name, and what is still more convincing, 
that almost every tree or vegetable, like different 
animals, are subject to different species of in- 



REMARKS ON INSECTS. 



197 



sects, some produced by nature when the plant 
becomes diseased, and some by the winged in- 
sects laying their eggs on such trees or plants, 
which by nature it knows its young will thrive 
best on. 

Therefore, if the pines are made unhealthy 
by bad treatment, or through neglect, such as 
planting them in improper soil, chilling them 
frequently with harsh cold spring water, scorch- 
ing the roots with violent bark-bed heat, or 
allowing it to become too cold for the genial 
nature of the plants, it cannot be surprising that 
they should become sickly ; and when in that 
sickly stunted state, the vermin is almost sure 
to follow very rapidly, if not speedily remedied ; 
therefore, pine-growing is by no means to be 
recommended on a very limited scale, neither 
ought any one to feel disappointment by failures, 
where sufficient assistance is not allowed, to be 
able to pay that attention to them which their 
nature requires, but where such is allowed, (ex- 
cept by accident,) the fault lays with those who 
have the management. 

Notwithstanding the above cautions, which 



198 



REMARKS OjSi INSECTS. 



are intended to avoid an internal disease in the 
plants, (if I may use the term,) insects will at 
all times make their appearance, which should 
be attended to without delay : in the first place, 
be careful to keep the pinery at all times very 
clean, and when insects appear on the plants, 
take a brush, a common painter's brush will do, 
and brush as many of the insects as you con- 
veniently can off the leaves, even down to the 
heart of the plants, but do not injure them, and 
also quite down to the bottom where they appear* 
Various methods are also used to destroy the 
insects; fumigating with tobacco smojse, although 
an old method is by no means to be despised ; 
indeed, if properly managed, I do not know of 
a better, although many, from some trifling oc- 
currence, may differ from me. This is done by 
means of fumigating bellows, or with a smoking 
pot, letting it burn till the house is filled with a 
dense smoke, and when the smoke is let off, such 
of the insects which have not been killed by it, 
will be in a sickly moving state, and by watering 
the plants all over through the rose of a large 
watering-pot, it will dislodge the remainder. 



jttEMARKS ON INSECTS. 



199 



which will become drown in the water below, or 
they may be immersed all over in a tub in 
water, with the chill taken off ; some apply to- 
bacco dust, or Scotch snuff, over the plant, and 
a lotion is also made use of, composed of sul- 
phur, snuff, tobacco, &c, to wash the leaves 
with, which is applied with a sponge or small 
brush, or by dipping the plants all over therein. 

When the plants are in a very bad state 
through insects, mercury is also used; this is 
done by putting the quicksilver into an open 
vessel, pour boiling water over it, pouring it 
* off when cold, then adding more boiling water 
until a sufficient quantity has been impregnated 
for the use you require, and being placed in a 
large tub, when only a little warm, take the 
plants out of the pots, and immerse them 
therein for a few minutes ; when taken out, place 
them upright to dry, and sponge the leaves clean, 
and take care to remove everything of a scaly 
nature, as that is no doubt a nest of insects; if 
the plants are very bad, they may be dipped a 
second time before they are re-potted ; this sys- 
tem in extreme cases is, I think, the most effica- 



200 EARLY GRAPES IN THE PINERY. 



cious remedy, as the quicksilver will have no 
effect upon the plants, although so powerful in 
its effect upon everything breathing or possess- 
ing animation. I should not speak so confi- 
dently on this point, had I not have become 
convinced from experiments of my own on the 
vegetable tribe. 

EARLY GRAPES IN THE PINERY. 

Par. 22. — Grapes may be cultivated and 
brought to maturity in the pinery, in a very 
superior manner, particularly some of the most 
esteemed sorts, which will not ripen in this cli- 
mate without continual artificial heat ; moreover, 
it is generally admitted, and indeed recom- 
mended by our best practical gardeners, that 
the shade produced from the leaves of the vine, 
are of essential service to the pines in summer, 
through their producing a salutary shade from 
the extreme heat of the sun ; and although the 
pinery, from the heat which it is necessary to 
maintain for the general culture of the pine ? is 
of that nature to be repugnant to the growth of 
most tree fruits, yet it will bring to maturity in 



EARLY GRAPES IN THE PINERY. 201 



great perfection those sorts of grapes which 
other forcing houses cannot be expected to do, 
the vinery excepted. 

The plants should be planted in a border 
prepared for them, outside the south front, east 
end, or west end of the house, as circumstances 
must dictate ; when planted in the front, and 
for quick produce, one plant is generally planted 
against each style or upright quartering of the 
front of the hothouse, and after being trained 
with a single stem of one or two summer's 
growth, it is introduced into the house early in 
winter, through a small hole in the wall or other 
aperture formed for the purpose, and trained up 
(one stem) along each rafter, having fixed 
wires or thin slips of wood nailed across to train 
the young shoots to. 

I need not expatiate further on the subject, 
here, as hereafter the management of the vine 
will be more elaborately treated on ; but before 
leaving the pinery altogether, I shall make a 
few remarks on its further uses. 



k 5 



202 



VARIETIES OF FRUITS 



CHOICE VARIETIES OF FRUITS, FLOWERS, ETC., 
IN THE PINERY. 

Par. 23. — Both in the main pinery, and the 
succession house, various sorts of exotics may be 
preserved and forwarded on shelves erected for 
the purpose, or elsewhere where there is room, 
particularly such (whether succulent, herbaceous, 
or woody kinds) which are from similar hot 
climates to those of the pine, as the heat and 
management suited to the pine will generally 
suit the other, the greatest difference in the 
culture being in potting, and the different soils, 
which are best suited for the varieties that may 
be introduced, which must be left to the judg 
ment of the cultivator, but for the most part the 
soil recommended for pines, or of such a nature, 
will be suitable for stove plants, except some of 
the succulents ; and those particularly which are 
very full of moisture, should be planted in a 
light rubbishy or sandy compost, for when the 
stalks and leaves are by nature full of humidity, 
if planted in rich moist earth they are liable to 
rot. 



AND FLOWERS. 



203 



Likewise the pinery is very convenient to 
bring forward many sorts of hardy plants and 
flowering shrubs for early blooming, such as 
roses, honeysuckles, azalias, kalniias, rhododen- 
drons, and various other varieties of American 
plants, also Persian and Siberian lilacs, pinks, 
dwarf tulips^ hyacinths, narcissus, jonquils, 
anefnones, ranunculuses, &c. 

The pinery is also of considerable use to for- 
ward many useful culinary plants, such as kidney 
beans, cucumbers, small salads, mint, tarragon s 
&c. ; likewise strawberries in pots. The above 
useful and ornamental plants may be introduced 
into the pinery any time in winter, from Decem- 
ber (or earlier if required) till April, introducing 
a portion only at a time, in order to keep up a 
succession, as circumstances may require. 

USEFUL REMARKS RELATIVE TO THE CHAPTER 
ON HOTHOUSE BUILDING, ETC. 

Par. 24. — The foregoing paragraphs contain- 
ed in this chapter will be found to embrace much 
useful information, which may be considered 
applicable to many cases connected with hot- 



204 



REMARKS ON 



house building and culture generally, which will 
preclude the necessity of repetition : at least I 
intend to avoid it as much as I conveniently 
can ; although in some cases it may be intro- 
duced with the view of rendering the substance 
of each paragraph as intelligible as possible, 
without the trouble of reference to other parts 
of the work. 

But gardening architecture, like that of land- 
scape gardening, requires not only a natural 
taste, but a matured judgment is also requisite; 
and when the two are blended together in the 
same person, everything that may be wished for 
may be expected when under such superinten- 
dence. 

When conservatories are intended to be 
erected, the taste and judgment are then 
brought into full play, as situations, aspects, and 
various other circumstances will preclude the 
possibility of conveying any thing like an accu- 
rate idea or fixed principle for their general 
construction ; for, like landscape gardening, the 
imagination cannot conveniently be dispensed 
with (mark, I mean for superior works) in these 



HOTHOUSE BUILDING. 



205 



cases. What painters term general effect, is 
required, breadth of light and shade, connection 
of parts, grouping, according to the diversity of 
the scenery. Many think when they have en- 
gaged a first-rate gardener he can do anything 
in laying out or improving, but improvements 
and alterations are two different things ; the 
knowledge required for a good horticultural 
gardener to possess, is very different to the 
taste and judgment requisite for the disposition 
of woody scenery, and of a fundamental know- 
ledge of arboriculture, which none but those who 
have a thorough knowledge of the nursery bu- 
siness can possess ; for without such knowledge 
he cannot possibly be a sufficient judge of the 
nature and constitution of trees generally, to 
know which will and which will not suit the dif- 
ferent soils and situations. This is one principal 
cause why so many failures take place, and 
what is still worse, the disappointment wljdch 
ensues. 

It has been said, by some writers on this 
subject, who profess landscape gardening, that 
it is a good test of a man's science in every 



206 REMARKS Oft HOTHOUSE BUILDING. 

branch of gardening, if he can sketch general 
scenery, but I have invariably traced such 
writers to be pen -gardeners only ; yet they but 
too frequently delude, not only the credulous, 
but many country gentlemen, who ought to be 
acquainted with such matters, suffer their judg- 
ment to be drawn aside by such writers. 

Any man who has pretensions to landscape 
gardening or gardening architecture generally, 
has a taste for drawing, and without which he 
cannot excel, for he must be expected to com- 
pose a design that can be carried into execution ; 
but I cannot discover what test this can be for 
the fundamental knowledge of gardening. 

The principles of gardening architecture, and 
particularly as regards conservatories, are sy- 
nonimous with those of garden scenery, indeed 
principles of unity and composition are the same 
in all arts of taste ; it would therefore be pre- 
sunaptive to attempt to lay down any fixed prin- 
ciple for the construction of conservatories, 



CHAPTER II. 



On forcing Peaches, Nectarines* and Apricots ; Cherries- 
Grapes, and other choice fruits, 

OBSERVATIONS RELATING TO PEACHERIES, VINE- 
RTES, AND OTHER FORCING HOUSES ; WITH 
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON RAISING DIF- 
FERENT SORTS OF FRUITS, VEGETABLES, AND 
FLOWERS THEREIN. 

Par. 25. — By the assistance of forcing houses 
many sorts of fruits, indeed, most of our best 
stone fruits, are brought forward, and will 
ripen in the greatest perfection, several months 
sooner than they can be obtained in the open 
air, such as peaches, nectarines, apricots, 
cherries, plums, &c. ; also figs, and many other 



208 OBSERVATIONS RELATING TO 

desirable fruits ; likewise grapes, some of which 
never ripen in the open air, in any part of 
England, particularly some of the most choice, 
large, late sorts, being natives of much warmer 
climates ; and, although some sorts will ripen 
well in the open air, against south walls, or 
sometimes when cultivated in the vineyard order 
in the open ground; yet any of the varieties 
(particularly the finest) will ripen most effec- 
tually in the hothouse ; with the flavour highly 
improved, and the fruit much larger ; and by 
having some of the early sorts, such as will 
generally ripen against the open wall, intro- 
duced into the hothouse, they will ripen early, 
and cause an early supply in spring, prior to the 
later sorts coming to perfection ; and by proper 
attention to the culture of the vine, which 
will be hereafter directed, a very lengthened 
supply may be obtained. 

Raspberries and strawberries can, likewise, be 
brought to good perfection early in the forcing 
house ; also a few gooseberries and currants 
for tarts, together with a great many other 
useful plants for culinary purposes ; such as 



PEACHES VINERIES, &C. 



209 



rhubarb for tarts, kidney beans, small salading, 
cucumbers, &c, may be sowed in pots, or boxes, 
and may be introduced as may be required, 
or convenient from November until April ; 
but I would recommend small portions only, 
for very early forcing ; but in January and 
February, kidney beans, and cucumbers, with 
many other esculents, may be admitted into 
the hothouse, for good early crops, without 
fear of success, and a further supply introduced 
every three -or four weeks, till April, of such 
as may be required, which will then be suc- 
ceeded by crops in the natural way in the open 
ground. 

Pots may also be introduced, containing the 
roots of tarragon mint, tansey, &c. ; and occa- 
sionally in the borders of the house, may be 
raised some early dwarf peas, mazagan beans, 
and lettuce plants, for early use ; also kidney 
beans, mazagan beans, and dwarf, early peas, 
may be sown thick, in large pots, and placed 
in the forcing house, late in the winter, or 
early in spring, and remain there till they have 
grown an inch or two high, for transplanting 



210 PLANS FOR FORCING HOUSES. 



into hotbeds, warm borders, or protected frames. 
for a succession, prior to the main summer 
ground crops. 

Flowers likewise, of different varieties, can 
be brought forward early in the hothouse, and 
with proper arrangements, a succession kept up 
during the latter part of the winter, and the 
early spring months, such as hyacinths nar- 
cissus, jonquils, dwarf tulips, irises, anemones, 
ranuncules, and many other bulbous and tuberous 
rooted flowers ; also many sorts of fibrous-rooted 
plants, and ornamented shrubs, including pinks, 
carnations, roses, honeysuckles, jasmines, double 
blossom peach, double blossom almond, double 
blossom cherry, Persian and Siberian lilacs, 
rhododendrons, andromedas, kalmias, azalias, 
camellias, &c. &c. 

DESCRIPTION OF THE DIFFERENT PLANS FOR 
FORCING HOUSES ; METHODS OF HEATING, 
WITH GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

Par. 26. — The directions given in the first 
paragraph for building hothouses, will, in the 
main, be a sufficient description for forcing houses 



PLANS FOR FORCING HOUSES. 211 

generally , at the same time, a vast difference 
will present itself in this chapter, relative to 
the culture generally, of the various fruits, which 
are brought to perfection in forcing houses, 
including the modes of heating, &c. ; but my 
long practice, great application, and consequent 
experience, compels me to cling for choice, to 
the hothouse built, facing the south ; therefore^ 
for the general building of forcing houses^ 
refer to the first paragraph, second part. 

The internal part of the hothouse, for forcing 
tree fruits, &c, may either have a pit in the 
centre for a bark bed, to furnish a constant 
heat, and for the plunging of various pots with 
plants in them, or the whole space left open for 
planting trees ; in the latter case, the centre of 
the bottom of the house may be covered with 
peaches, nectarines, &c, as well as along the 
back walls. 

The grape vine is particularly adapted 
for forcing, in every description of forcing 
house, as they will stand the high heat of 
the pinery, where they will come to the 
greatest perfection ; while peaches, nectarines, 
&c., require a more moderate heat, not ex- 



212 



PLANS FOR FORCING HOT'SES. 



ceeding sixty, or sixty-five degrees ; but in 
peach houses, also grapes will come to great 
perfection, but if introduced, they should be 
confined as much as possible to the rafters, in 
order that they may not obstruct the rays 
of the sun, as the sun is most essential, both 
for the colouring and flavouring the fruit, par- 
ticularly that of peaches and nectarines. 

The vinery, or house intended principally for 
forcing grapes, may be kept at as high a tem- 
perature as that of the pinery, by which means 
very early crops will be obtained in the greatest 
perfection ; and as the vinery may be of any 
length required, from ten to one hundred feet, 
or more, it may be divided by merely a glass 
partition, in suitable proportions, for very early 
and later supplies ; but in the vinery, or that part 
where very early crops are intended to be raised, 
a bark bed along the centre of the house is 
highly beneficial in assisting the heat produced 
by fire or hot water ; but when not required so 
early, they can be forced by heat solely of fire or 
hot water : therefore different forcing houses, are 
generally in large forcing establishments, allotted 



PLANS FOR FORCING HOUSES. 



213 



to the different sorts of fruits separately, although 
the erections may be in nearly the same form ; 
consisting of pineries, vineries, peacheries, (prin- 
cipally for peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, 
figs, &c.,) and cherry houses, chiefly for cherries; 
in the whole of which, vines are frequently intro- 
duced, to train up under the top glasses, and all 
the forcing houses are likewise of great utility 
for producing early flowers, vegetables, &c. 

The various forcing houses are sometimes con- 
structed on different plans, some from taste, 
others through the situation, not allowing the 
house to be built lengthways, from east to west ; 
but, they should always be erected to receive as 
much sun as the situation will admit of. Some 
forcing houses for tree fruits are formed, for being 
heated by fire heat, through flues; others by steam 
or hot water through pipes, without any bark 
bed. Others are worked by bark bed heat alone, 
which produces a regular, kind heat through- 
out the house, but this alone will not bring the 
trees so forward as when assisted with fire or hot 
water, or with the latter alone ; but where there 
is a bark bed, less fire or hot water will be re- 



214 



GENERAL FORCING HOUSE. 



quired, and that only of nights principally, or 
occasionally of cold mornings, or sometimes 
throughout the day in very severe weather : but 
in a mild season, this will only be necessary of 
evenings, till nine or ten o'clock. Where heated 
with fire or hot water alone, it will be required 
to be continued every evening and morning:, and 
moderately all day in cold weather, to support 
a regular heat. 

DESCRIPTION OF A GENERAL FORCING HOUSE. 

Par. 27.— A hothouse intended for a general 
forcing house should certainly, if possible, be 
built facing the south, 'or as nearly so as the 
situation will permit, constructed in the same 
form as described for pines, in the first paragraph. 
The dimensions must entirely depend upon cir- 
cumstances : the back wall may be eight, ten, or 
twelve feet high, the upright glasses in front 
four, five, or six feet high, to be in proportion to 
the back wall : the width from ten, twelve, fifteen 
to twenty feet, and the length to any extent that 
may be required, from ten to one hundred feet 
or more. This must entirely depend on circum- 



GENERAL FORCING HOUSE. 215 

stances, and the dimensions arranged and guided 
by the judgment of those who have the manage- 
ment. Some prefer building the house without 
upright glasses in front, the top glasses reaching 
from the top of the back wall down to a low wall 
in front, with a plate of wood fixed thereon ; but 
the front being formed of upright moveable 
sashes on a wall one or two feet high, is cer- 
tainly the most eligible plan, both for appearance 
and the convenience of head room and other pur- 
poses within. If intended to be heated by fire 
with flues, refer to paragraph the first, where 
full directions will be found, suitable for heating 
a house of this description, but if by hot water 
or steam, refer to paragraph the thirteenth. 

When the house is built of considerable length, 
it may be divided by glass partitions, in which 
some part or parts may, if preferred, have a bark 
pit erected, embracing the advantage both of 
the bark bed heat (and its uses for plunging in, 
&c.) and that of fire or hot water. Other por- 
tions of the house may be forced by fire or hot 
water heat alone, without bark, which gives a 
a much greater space for fruit trees and other 



216 GENERAL FORCING HOUSE. 

purposes, the whole of the bottom of the house 
being free. 

When a bark bed is erected in a fruit forcing 
house, an internal border is prepared along the 
back, and another of sufficient width along the 
front for planting the trees in. This is a very 
desirable plan for vines, but where a bark pit is 
introduced into a general fruit forcing house, it 
is necessary the house should be of considerable 
width, to admit of the borders, pit and paths. The 
bark bed pit may also be built after the directions 
in paragraph the first, and it must not be for- 
gotten that where the house is wide, say, from 
fifteen to twenty feet, it will be necessary to have 
upright supporters along the middle of the house 
under each rafter. 

PREPARING BORDERS FOR THE TREES, AND 
THE DIFFERENT SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING : 
INCLUDING GRAPE VINES. 

Par. 28. — The borders in the forcing house 
must be made according as the width of the 
house will admit, and also must be guided by the 
internal arrangements generally, but much de* 



BORDERS FOR THE TREES. . 217 

pends upon the judgment of having a thorough 
practical knowledge of soils, which will suit the 
different kinds of fruit trees intended to be 
planted. Generally, where the natural soil, on 
which the forcing house is built, is of a rich 
loamy quality, much less judgment will be re- 
quired in preparing the borders, as all fruit trees 
will succeed in " a light deep loamy soil ; and 
when this is the case, no further trouble is 
necessary, beyond trenching the ground two 
spades deep, throwing up the two crumbs, and 
loosen the soil at the bottom of the trench, 
before throwing in the next top spit. If the soil 
is tolerably rich, no manure will be necessary ; 
if poor, add some thoroughly -rotted dung, in 
proportion to the poorness of the soil; at the 
bottom of the trench, after it is loosened, and 
again on the top spit after it is turned over, and 
more on the second spit after it is turned over, 
and then throw the second crumb over it, and 
before planting, the border may be again turned 
over slightly, to cause it to be well mixed. This 
will be quite sufficient for all kinds of stone 
fruits, particularly peaches and nectarines, or 

L 



218 



BORDERS FOR THE TREES, 



any trees worked on plums, for those trees are 
very apt to become diseased through over rich 
soil, and from which they seldom or ever recover. 

Where the soil is naturally of an unkind qua- 
lity, it will then be necessary to remove a portion 
thereof, two, three, four, five, or six feet deep, ac- 
cording to the nature of the soil below, and the 
vacuum filled up with good fresh loamy soil ; and if 
tolerably rich, it will not require any manure to 
be added, otherwise a small quantity of rotten dung 
may be mixed with it ; but be very sparing of 
manure for peaches and nectarines, for be it 
recollected that fruit is required as well as barren 
wood, and you may at all times assist the tree 
by removing the fruit when necessary; while, on 
the other hand, it requires more than ordinary 
skill to check the trees when they get into too 
luxurious a state of growth, which generally 
causes swellings and gumming, and finally ter- 
minates with canker and decay. Mark, I am 
speaking from extensive practice. 

When preparing the borders for grape vines, 
either in the house or along the front, outside, 
the nature of the soil requires the first consider- 



BORDERS FOR THE TREES. 219 

ation, both for the growth of the vines and the 
ripening and flavour of the fruit. If the natural 
soil is of a deep, light, mellow, loamy nature, 
little is required beyond trenching the border 
two or three feet deep, mixing with it a tolerable 
good dressing of compost, such as rotten dung, 
brick rubbish, scrapings of turnpike roads, &c. 
By this practice vines will generally succeed 
better than by removing the natural soil two or 
three feet deep, which is often the practice, and 
bringing in a different soil, which the vine is fond 
of ; for although the plants may grow very freely 
for the first few years, yet when the roots get 
down to the soil of quite a different nature and 
which they may not be so fond of, they are very 
apt, just as they are coming into bearing, to lose 
part of their vigour, which will render them not 
so well able to stand a crop of fruit, or at least, 
produce such fine bunches and large berries, as 
if they had not been too nicely fed at first. 

Where it should so happen that the land is of 
that nature, either a bed of gravel, strata of clay, 
or otherwise so unkind that it may be deemed 
necessary to remove the natural soil, and bring 

l 2 



220 BORDERS FOR THE TREES. 

in that of a different quality, I would recommend 
it to be taken out both wide and deep, not less 
than eight or ten feet at least, in order that the 
vines may have room to extend their roots for 
years, and three or four feet of the bottom filled 
up of light loam, with a considerable portion of 
rough dry brick rubbish, road scrapings, &c; and 
where the soil is of such a nature at the bottom as 
to be repugnant to the nature of the vine, such as 
a rank clay, &c, I would recommend the paving 
the bottom, prior to putting in the new compost, 
to prevent the roots getting into a soil which, if 
it should not prove altogether so injurious to 
their growth, may greatly deteriorate the flavour 
of the fruit, and is frequently the cause of the 
bunches ripening in a disorderly sort of manner, 
some of the berries becoming quite ripe, while 
others are quite sour. But the soil is not always 
the cause of grapes ripening thus, as bad pruning 
will often produce the same effects, as well as 
meagre ragged bunches. Indeed, a celebrated 

© DO ' 

vine-grower, and who in his day was denominated 
the prince of gardeners, said that (speaking of 
France) if a vineyard was pruned badly one 



SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING. 



221 



season, it would take seven years to bring it 
into a proper state of bearing again ; and although 
I may not go the whole length of that assertion, 
this much I can add, that the knife is the life 
and spirit of fruit trees, when well handled, but 
their greatest enemy, in the hands of one not 
capable of using it properly. 

Whether in a general forcing house or in 
different forcing houses, either constructed on the 
same plan or otherwise, the sorts of fruit trees 
chiefly selected for forcing, consists of peaches, 
nectarines, apricots, cherries, plums, figs, and 
grapes. 

Although I would wish to refer generally tc 
the explanatory lists in the Fruit Grower's In- 
structor for more full particulars, yet I think it 
will not be out of place here to name some of the 
best sorts for forcing, such as I would choose 
myself. I should therefore select them thus, 
according to the number required : take the sorts 
as they stand on the lists. At the same time I 
am not intending by this to prejudice any other 
valuable and esteemed kinds, but only recom- 



222 SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING. 



mending such as I know to be excellent in 
quality, and suitable for the purposes of forcing, 



1 Noblesse 

2 Royal George, smooth 

leaved 

3 French Mignion 

4 Vanguard 

5 Early Gallande 



1 Elruge 

2 Red Roman 

3 Violet Hative 



PEACHES. 

6 Violet Hative 

7 Millet's Mignion 

8 Red Magdalen, or old 
Royal George 

9 Early Admirable 
10 Earlv Ann 



NECTARINES. 

4 Brugnion 

5 Murrey 

6 Italian 



1 Moor Park 

2 Breda 



APRICOTS. 

3 Royal Orange 

4 Roman 



1 May Duke 

2 Biggereau 

3 Circassian 



CHERRIES. 

4 Archduke 

5 Florence 

6 Waterloo 



1 Royal Green Gage 

2 Early Orleans 

3 Late Orleans 



PLUMS. 

4 Coe's Golden Drop 

5 St. Looe 

6 Blue Gage 



SORTS PROPER FOR FORCING. 228 



FIGS. 



1 Large White Genoa 

2 Black Italian 



4 Black Ischia 



5 Malta 



3 Large Brown Ischia 



6 Green Ischia 



GRAPES. 



1 Black Hamburgh 



7 New White Sweet Water 



2 Royal Muscadine, white 8 Black Damascus 

3 West's St. Peter's, black 9 Black Muscadine 

4 White Muscat of Alex- 10 White Frontinac 



6 Lombardy, red 
PROPER SEASONS AND METHODS OF PLANTING 



Par. 29. — The month of November is deci- 
dedly the best in the year for planting fruit 
trees, and when the wood becomes tolerably 
firm, and the leaf falls freely, the earlier in the 
month the better, as they will in that early 
season produce fresh roots almost immediately 
after planting, which is of considerable import- 
ance, particularly when they are intended for 
immediate forcing, although in open weather 
they may be removed in December, January, 



andria 



11 St. Peter's, very black 

12 White Syrian 



5 Black Prince 



TREES FOR FORCING. 



224 PROPER SEASONS AND METHODS 

or February ; the trees should be carefully taken 
up, with good full roots, and if convenient, to 
remove them with balls of earth, it will be of 
grat advantage, when intended to be forced the 
same season. 

The trees (except those that may be brought 
in with round heads in pots or otherwise, for 
forcing in the centre of the house) ought to be at 
least two years trained in the wall-tree order : 
and for peaches, nectarines, and apricots, where 
the house is chiefly to be devoted to their forcing, 
I would recommend one row at the back of the 
house, planted against a neat trellis of thin w r ood 
or wire w r ork, fixed near to the wall, about eight 
or ten feet apart. These should be dwarfs, and 
be careful not to plant them too deep, only 
thoroughly cover the roots, leaving the stem of 
the stock as much above ground as you con- 
veniently can, to prevent the tree sinking below 
where it was budded ; and if required to have 
the back wall covered early, some standards or 
half standards, with stems three or four feet high, 
according to the height of the house, may be 
planted between the dwarfs 5 but these should be 



OF PLANTING TREES FOR FORCING. 225 

removed when the dwarfs require their room, 
as it would prove a loss rather than a gain to 
have them too much crowded. 

The next and only other row of trees that I 
would recommend to be planted in the peach- 
house, is along near the front path, these also 
previously trained as before described. The 
plan I am about to describe is one of the best 
methods I ever witnessed ; have a thin iron 
frame-work constructed in a semicircular form, 
about the substance of iron hurdles generally 
used to protect pleasure grounds, &c. from sheep ; 
this should be fixed along the front within ten 
or twelve inches of the pathway, and made to 
bow over the centre of the bottom of the house, 
supported by uprights, fixed at necessary dis- 
tances along the back, near to the footpath, with 
strong iron wires run through the frame- work, 
about five or six inches apart to train the trees 
to ; by this plan the whole of the centre of the 
house will be covered with fruit trees, as well as 
the back, and the frame- work being bowed over, 
it will very little obstruct the sun from the trees 
at the back, as the frame should be made to 

l5 



226 PROPER SEASONS AND METHODS 

rise more upright at the front and towards the 
middle more gradual, and along the top nearly 
flat, the height at the back not being more than 
from three and a half or four feet, unless the 
house is very lofty ; in this way the trees will 
bear exceedingly well, and the fruit become very 
fine, and also during the time of ripening, the 
fruit is easily prevented from falling to the ground 
by placing a net underneath. The house thus 
planted may be forced by fire heat in the usual 
way, with flues if preferred ; but in this case I 
should decidedly prefer hot w r ater, both for con- 
venience and appearance, as the pipe with 
returns may be ranged along the centre under 
the frame-work, and will scarcely be perceptible 
to the casual observer, and also along near the 
front glasses, where if a frame is made between 
the foot-path and the sashes for the forwarding 
of flowers, French beans, strawberries, or what 
might be required, the pipes would be also 
nearly concealed underneath. If vines are intro- 
duced, they may be planted either inside the 
house or on the outside, and admitted through 
an aperture made for the purpose ; also many 



OF PLANTING TREES FOB FORCING. 227 



useful things may be raised under the centre 
frame, such as small salads, early rhubarb for 
tarts, tarragon, mint, &c 

When the centre of the house is left open for 
forcing generally, many sorts of fruits may be 
forced therein, either in pots plunged in the 
earth, or established trees in a bearing state 
turned out of the pots and planted immediately 
without disturbing the balls ; to effect this the 
more easily, let the earth in the pots become 
rather dry, and they will come out of the pots 
with little trouble, and without injury to the 
balls. 

Let me here remark, that it is by no means a 
good method to force trees the first year after 
planting, particularly when removed from nur- 
series without balls, therefore in all new- planted 
houses it is desirable for the future welfare of 
the trees to let them remain open and fully ex- 
posed till the following season, and then on]y 
a small quantity of fruit should be allowed to 
remain on each tree, particular} 7 if the trees 
had not received more than two years training 
when planted. 



228 



GLASS-HOUSES FOR FORCING? 



NARROW GLASS-HOUSES FOR FORCING, PRINCI- 
PALLY BY FIRE-HEAT OR HOT WATER. 

Par. 30. — Glass houses of narrow dimensions 
for forcing fruit trees principally, are sometimes 
erected (for forcing with hot water or fire heat) 
against a south wall eight or ten feet high or 
more, width about five or six feet, and length of 
any extent that may be required, the whole 
enclosed with glass moveable sashes (in proper 
sloping frames) made to slide up and down as 
occasion may require, from a low front wall 
about eighteen , inches high, to the top of the 
back w T all : the pipes for hot water or flues for 
fire-heat, may be ranged along near the front, or 
down the middle, or along the back part near 
the wall, the pipes should be raised a little from 
the ground, and if heated by flues, they should 
also be raised on low arches, that by being 
detached from the ground, the house will re- 
ceive the benefit of the whole of the heat : the 
trees may be trained to the wall ; but if the 
flues or pipes are carried along the back close 
to the wall, it will be necessary to have a trellis 



BY FIRE OR HOT WATER. 



229 



ten or twelve inches from the flues ; or the trees 
may be planted next the front, and trained up 
parallel with the glass to wire work, properly 
arranged for the occasion, about eight or ten 
inches from the glass, by this latter method the 
sun has great influence in forwarding the fruit 
and bringing it to early perfection. 

These kinds of glass slips for fruit forcing, 
may be of long dimensions, and so contrived 
that part of the trees may be forced one year, 
and part another, by having the frames and 
sashes of equal size, so that they may be re- 
moved from one division to another, and by 
giving the trees one or two years 9 respite, occa- 
sionally, exposing them fully to the open air, will 
greatly renovate their constitution, and strength- 
en them for future forcing. 

FORCING FRAMES FOR FORCING FRUIT-TREES 
BY BARK-BED HEAT ALONE. 

Par. 31. — In large forcing establishments, be- 
sides the foregoing plans for forcing peaches, nec- 
tarines, &c, a kind of forcing frames are con- 
structed, wholly of woodwork at the bacl^ front, 



230 FRAMES FOR FORCING F ROT-TREES* 



and ends, made of strong deal boards five or six 
feet high in the back by two feet in the front, both 
ends corresponding ; in width about eight feet, and 
the length for one tree ten feet, and so on for 
two or more trees, at ten feet apart, each frame 
to have three lights, or sloping glass sashes, with 
rafters across the frame for them to slide on, 
and in the back a pannel made to slide, for 
entrance. 

The tan- pit below may be formed either of 
brick-work or post and planking about three 
feet deep, the trees are planted in the font, out- 
side, on a raised border, the stem of the tree 
inclining to the frame, and a piece cut out of 
the frame to let in the stem, the head admitted 
within, and trained up about eight or ten inches 
under the glasses ; the bark bed to be renewed 
at the commencement of each forcing season : 
and by this plan also, peaches and nectarines 
will come to good perfection early, but I may 
observe, it is not very convenient, neither is it 
very generally adopted. 



VINERY FOR FORCING GRAPES, &C. 231 



VINERY, OR HOUSE PRINCIPALLY FOR FORCING 
GRAPES, METHODS OF OBTAINING THE PLANTS, 
WITH USEFUL OBSERVATIONS. 

Par. 32. — Where a house is designed chiefly 
for forcing grapes, the fruit may be brought to 
the finest possible perfection, much earlier than in 
forcing houses intended for other fruit trees, as 
the vine will stand quite as much heat or more, 
as is usually allowed in the pinery; and by 
forcing some of the early sorts among the fine 
large late varieties, this delicious fruit can be 
produced in May, and by divisions in the vinery, 
a supply may be continued throughout the sum- 
mer and autumn. 

The vines are generally planted inside the 
house, some near the back wall, about three 
feet and a half apart, and trained to trellis 
work ; and others in a border along the front 
near the pipes or flues, and the stems trained up 
to the rafters, and as they branch out, the young 
shoots are trained to wires or thin crossbars of 
wood, about six inches from the top glass; 
sometimes the vines are planted on a border 



232 VINERY FOR FORCING GRAPES,, &C. 

outside the house, and admitted through holes, 
and conducted to the rafters ; but I am of opi- 
nion, with most other practical men. that for 
early and strong forcing, it is better to have the 
stem inside ; but this is not of so much conse- 
quence where they are introduced into peach 
houses, or other glass houses only requiring 
moderate heat. 

Like other fruit trees, the best time for plant- 
ing is in November, and if then omitted, about 
the middle of February is the next best season; 
the plants should be two, three, or four years 
old for planting in the vinery, particularly if 
raised from eyes, and if established in pots, they 
are far preferable ; should the roots be through 
at the bottom of the pots, by breaking the pots 
to pieces, the balls can be preserved entire. The 
different sorts may be obtained at most of the 
respectable nurseries, raised either by layers or 
from eyes. There appears to be a diversity of 
opinion among practical men as to which is the 
most preferable for planting, the layers, or those 
raised from eyes ; some contending, that the 
layers come into bearing earlier than the eyes. 



OBTAINING TREES FOR FORCING, &C. 233 

while the eyes receive the preference for making 
a more rapid growth when first planted ; how- 
ever, I have seen both succeed well, when' pro- 
perly managed, in growth, and likewise produce. 
Although in Par. 28 I have recommended a 
limited number of sorts which are known to be 
good, still there are several other fine varieties 
of grapes which should not be omitted where 
the vinery is extensive ; also, when the vines 
have grown large, they ought to be thinned, for 
there will not be anything gained by having the 
house too much crowded, 

HOW TO OBTAIN FRUIT TREES INTENDED FOR 
FORCING, WIT Fi A NECESSARY CAUTION. 

Par. 33. — When selecting fruit trees for 
forcing, in order to have such sorts as are recom- 
mended in this work, or other favourite sorts, 
established nurseries of known respectability, 
and the proprietors thereof of known judgment, 
should be applied to for the same, as the best 
security against being supplied with a spurious 
kind, or the tree worked on a stock which is not 
suited to the variety, the latter being of con- 



234 OBTAINING TREES FOR FORCING, .&C. 

siderable importance; for although the bud may 
take, and the tree grow freely for a time if 
worked on an improper stock, they will fre- 
quently, when coming into bearing, dwindle 
away ; and although some may exist for years, 
they are merely an incumbrance to the house. 
Here I am speaking more particularly of peaches, 
nectarines, and apricots, as it cannot be expected 
from the general practice of gardeners that they 
should be acquainted sufficiently with the wood 
of the different kinds, to know them by, while in 
a young state in the nursery, or the nature of 
the stocks on which the different sorts ought to 
be budded ; and it is very mortifying when 
the trees come into bearing to find, instead of a 
favourite peach, perhaps a nectarine substituted, 
or some other peach of inferior quality. 

MANAGEMENT OF VINES, AND SEASONS FOR 
FORCING. 

Par. 34. — Prior to the vines being forced, it 
will be necessary for them to be properly pruned, 
upon which subject I almost fear to hazard an 
opinion, there being so many different methods 



MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C. 235 

adopted, together with the almost impossibility 
of conveying anything like straightforward di- 
rections for the different varieties, and the 
various prunings they have to go through. At 
the winter pruning, it has now become almost 
an invariable rule to spur indiscriminately to one 
or two eyes, and for a general rule perhaps it 
may be the best. This practice has however been 
adopted, chiefly in consequence of its having 
been discovered that one of the finest forcing 
grapes, the " Black Hamburgh," succeeds de- 
cidedly best by this practice; but this is not the 
case with every sort ; for some, although they 
may produce a good supply of bunches, they are 
very apt not to grow regular and handsome, nei- 
ther do some sorts ripen so regularly as when 
produced from the young wood, left three, four, 
or five buds long according to their strength ; 
but much depends upon the summer, or rather 
the spring pruning, (for the first pruning is the 
principal to insure a crop for the ensuing season ;) 
at this season it is too common a practice to re- 
move the greater part of the small shoots which 
have no fruit on them, while I should wish it to 



236 



MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C 



be borne in mind that these small shoots, (I do 
not mean little dwindling stuff,) if allowed to 
remain, and cut back to the second or third bud 
according to their strength, will generally pro- 
duce fine bunches, while I have remarked that 
the young wood which had borne the fruit, when 
cut back, did not produce them so regular and 
fine, this I have observed to be the case with such 
sorts as the sweet water, royal muscadine, kc; 
but I feel myself getting into a labyrinth, and 
must conclude these observations by the excuse set 
forth at the commencement of the paragraph, with 
this only addition, that nothing but great prac- 
tice among vines can convey anything like the 
directions for pruning, which the vine requires, 
leaving out of the question the different varieties, 
but hope these hints will not be taken amiss by 
the experienced man and extensive grower, and 
that it may lead them to svatch the nature of the 
different kinds. 

The winter pruning may be done any time in 
December or later, when the forcing does not 
commence early, always cutting back to three 



MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C. 



237 



or four buds some of the strongest young shoots 
of the last summer's growth, to produce a re- 
gular supply of bearing wood from the bottom 
of the vines, some of which should be allowed 
to run nearly their full length during the sum- 
mer, but should be cleared of their lateral 
shoots, which will prevent too great a cluster of 
twigs, and give light to the house and strength 
to the main buds of the principal shoot, from 
which, when allowed to remain of tolerable 
length at the following winter's pruning, will 
generally produce the largest and often the 
finest bunches, probably two, three, or more on 
each. 

In the early part, or about the middle of 
January, is the general season for setting the 
vinery in motion ; if there is a pit within, which 
is intended for tan, let the bed be made, the 
warmth from which will bring the vines into 
activity ; or if the bark bed is not required, the 
forcing may commence by fire, steam, or hot- 
water heat alone, whichever has been allotted 
for the purpose ; but with or without a bark 
bed, the assistance of fires for warming the 



238 MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C. 

house by flues or pipes will be very essential 
after the first week or ten days of the house 
having been heated by the bark bed ; the fires 
should be made every evening, and kept up till 
nine or ten o'clock to warm the air of the house 
till morning, when it will be necessary (particu- 
larly if there be no bark bed) to revive the 
fires, and in cold weather continue them the 
whole day moderately ; but when the season is 
more advanced, and the sun becomes powerful, 
the fires may be discontinued after the morning, 
until the evening, and thus the heat may be 
managed till May, or later, if the weather proves 
cold, or be guided more especially as the fruit 
appears to ripen, generally keeping up the tem- 
perature equal to the pine stove ; when the vines 
begin to break, or rather the shoots begin to 
put forth, give air moderately in the middle of 
warm sunny days, either in the front, or by 
drawing open some of the top-glasses next the 
back, and more freely as the warm weather ad- 
vances. 

As the summer growth of the vines advances, 
the young shoots require great attention ; all 



MANAGEMENT OF VINES, &C. 289 



those which have fruit on them, and also such 
as may be considered eligible for reserving for 
bearing the next season, should be trained in 
regular order, and should be kept clear of all 
laterals and twigs of a useless nature; and after 
the bloom is over, and the fruit well set, the 
shoots on which the fruit appears should be short- 
ened to about two joints above the fruit : or where 
there are two bunches, and the shoot weak, one 
bud only may be left above the top bunch, this 
will greatly encourage the swelling of the fruit. 

While the berries are small, and the bunches 
appear likely to become crowded, some of the 
most irregular berries may be thinned out with 
a pair of pointed scissors, which will give the 
others room to swell, and cause the berries to 
grow regular, and the bunches to become hand- 
some. 

Vines which are grown in the pinery, or pine 
hothouse, generally produce ripe fruit in the 
same order, and in the same seasons as those 
above stated in the first forcing of the vinery, 
which is generally about May a few, plentiful in 



240 COLD GLASS HOUSE FOR VINES. 



June and July, and so on until the succession is 
ready. 

GREEN HOUSE, OR COLD GLASS HOUSE FOR 
VINES. 

Par. 35. — Vines are frequently introduced 
into greenhouses when constructed with a glass 
roof, similar to that of the hothouse, the vines 
planted in a border outside of the front, and 
carried through to the rafters inside as before 
directed, and treated in the same manner as the 
hothouse, selecting such sorts as are tolerably 
early in their ripening, such as the royal musca- 
dine, black Hamburgh, &c. ; and if the house is 
furnished with fire flues, or hot water pipes, 
they may be moderately heated occasionally 
in March, April, and May, as the weather may 
dictate, this will forward their fruiting; and in 
such houses, very abundant crops of fruit are 
brought to good perfection, six weeks or more, 
before those grown in the open air ; and even if 
there is not any artificial heat internally, the 
benefit of the sun through the glass, together 
with the protection it affords in cold weather, 



PEACH HOUSE FOE, FORCING. 241 

will generally produce good crops, and con- 
siderably forward the ripening of the fruit, and 
in most seasons, superior to those against the 
walls in the open air. 

PEACH HOUSE, ITS CULTURE, AND GENERAL 
UTILITY FOR FORCING. 

Par. 36. — The peachery is principally appro- 
priated for forcing peaches, nectarines, and 
apricots, and if required, many other sorts of 
fruits ; such as plums, cherries, figs, vines, &c. 

Previous to the forcing being commenced, 
the peaches, nectarines, &c, should be pro- 
perly pruned, according to their orders of 
bearing, nearly in the same way as is usually 
practised for fruit bearing trees in the open air. 
The peach house is also of great utility for 
forwarding many useful and ornamental plants, 
as directed in other hothouse culture. 

The forcing is generally begun about the 
middle, or towards the end of January, or 
sometimes early in February ; if there is a 
bark pit, the bed should be made a week 
or ten days prior to commencing the fires ; 

M 



242 PEACH HOUSE FOR FORCING. 

when the fires are began, either for flues or 
pipes, they must be continued every evening 
moderately till nine or ten o'clock, and so left 
to cause proper warmth in the house during 
the night, and be revived in the morning, if 
cold weather ; and if there be no bark bed, 
continue the fire throughout the day, but when 
there is a bark bed, the day fires will only 
be necessary in sharp, cutting weather, or 
during severe frosts ; always, however, endea- 
vour to keep as regular a heat as possible, 
which ought not to exceed sixty degrees, or 
thereabouts, as a greater heat is very apt to 
prove unsuccessful, not only to peaches and 
nectarines, but also to most other kinds of tree 
fruits. 

Air should be admitted only a little, at the 
early part of the season, and that chiefly in the 
middle of the day, while the sun is out, and in 
greater proportions, as the spring and warm 
w r eather advances, as the power of the sun will 
sometimes increase the heat very considerably ; 
then also increase the admissions of air by 
degrees, until the middle of the day, after 



TEACH HOUSE FOR FORCING. 243 

which the diminution should be also equally 
gradual. 

Watering will likewise be necessary to the 
borders, when they appear dry, and sometimes 
over the trees, before the bloom expands, and 
also after the fruit is well set ; but during the 
time the trees are in bloom, and the fruit setting, 
no water should be given over the branches, 
as that will prove very injurious to the setting 
of the fruit ; but when the fruit begins to 
swell, water may be applied over the branches, 
once or twice a week, in fine sveather, in a 
gentle manner, with a syringe, or those in the 
lower part of the house, through the fine rose 
of a watering pot ; this should generally be 
done of a morning, and with soft water, either 
prepared, or from a pond, but rain water is at all 
times to be preferred. 

As the fruit advances in growth, and par- 
ticularly towards maturity, allow a considerable 
high heat from the sun, by large admissions in 
the middle of the day, opening in the morning, 
and shutting gradually, as before directed, as 
the sun is highly essential, both for assisting 

m 2 



244 FORCING HOUSE FOR CHERRIES. 

the swelling and colouring of the fruit, and also 
for producing a fine rich flavour ; by this prac- 
tice, peaches arid nectarines will ripen in the 
greatest perfection, in May and June, and the 
late sorts in July and August. 

FORCING HOUSE FOR CHERRIES, WITH ITS 
FURTHER USES. 

Par. 37. — In lar^e forcing establishments, 
a house is allotted chiefly for forcing cherries, 
and which is called the cherry house ; this 
house may be constructed on the same principle 
as the general forcing houses, and is generally 
forced by fire heat, or hot water only ; and the 
whole, or part of the bottom space, composed of 
proper soil for planting the trees in ; formed 
into one or more borders, ranged the long way 
of the house, and the trees planted therein ; the 
trees should be of an age for immediate bearing, 
and some may be trained, and planted against a 
trellis near the back wall, or the whole may have 
round heads,, with a moderate share of branches, 
some dwarfs and others standards, planted in 
rows across the house, placing the tallest behind 



METHODS 07 FORCING. 



245 



and lowest in front; and likewise along the front 
may have dwarfs planted or brought in in pots. 
Vines may also be planted inside or in a border 
outside, and treated as directed in other forcing 
departments. Refer to the proper paragraphs 
for sorts recommended ; but I may here add. 
that the May- duke is generally the most suc- 
cessful, and ought to be planted more plentifully 
than other sorts. 

The cherry house is generally set in motion 
(commencing moderately) about the end of Jan- 
uary, or beginning of February ; and the direc- 
tions given foi the management of the peach 
house will mainly apply to this, and ripe fruit may 
be expected about the end of April, or beginning 
of May. also many other useful articles may be 
produced in the house, in all vacancies on 
shelves, or elsewhere. 

OBSERVATIONS RELATIVE TO THE SEASONS, 
AND METHODS, OF FORCING GENERALLY. 

Par. 38. — Having given such instructions for 
forcing generally, which I know to be safe, and 
in the most clear manner my judgment could 



246 



METHODS OF FORCING. 



dictate, and which from a long and extensive 
practice, and close application, has convinced 
me, that what I have recommended, if pro- 
perly attended to, will prove successful ; I will 
conclude this part of the subject, by a few 
general remarks thereon, and which may be 
considered applicable, or nearly so, to the 
whole. 

The most general time for commencing 
forcing, is from the middle of January to the 
beginning of February, although it is some- 
times commenced earlier, and sometimes later ; 
when the forcing is to be assisted with a bark 
bed, it is an advisable plan, to make the bed 
a week, or ten days, or a fortnight before the 
fires are commenced ; in some cases, dung hot- 
beds are substituted ; these should also be made 
ten or twelve days before the fires, to get 
settled, or to allow the rank steam to eva- 
porate, then add ten or twelve inches of tan 
at top, or in the absence of tan, some light 
sifted soil, in which to plunge pots, or for raising 
articles therein, When the fires are once 
commenced, either for flues or pipes, they 



METHODS OF FORCING. 



247 



should be continued every evening, and kept up 
till nine or ten o'clock, and left in such a manner, 
that it will continue to warm the house durin^ 
the night; but this part must greatly depend 
on the nature of the weather, and the season of 
the year ; and where there is no bark, or other 
hotbed ? the heat of the flues or pipes should be 
revived in the morning, and continued mode- 
rately throughout the day ; and where there 
is a bark bed, this will also be necessary on 
cold mornings, and likewise all day, in severe 
weather; as the season advances, the thermo- 
meter should be constantly watched, and the 
artificial heat be increased by fire, or decreased 
by air according to the power of the sun, thereby 
keeping a moderate kind heat, which is not 
only desirable, but absolutely required for tree 
fruits; the standard for artificial heat being 
sixty degrees, and ought not to vary after the 
fruit is set, more than four or five degrees under 
or over 

The vinery is altogether different, the house 
may be kept at a much higher temperature, 
particularly when they are required to be 



248 



WATERING IN THE 



brought forward very early ; in that case, the 
heat may be kept up to the height of the pine 
stove ; but where vines are allowed in the peach 
house, the same heat must content for them, 
which is allowed for the peach trees. 

The fires should be continued as above di- 
rected, till April or May, or longer, to be 
guided generally by the ripening of the fruit ; 
and, as the weather proves more or less favour- 
able ; and thus, as the season advances, and 
the power of the sun increases, lessen by 
degrees the heat produced by the pipes or 
flues. 

ADMITTING AIR, WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR 
WATERING IN THE DIFFERENT FORCING 
HOUSES. 

Par. 39. — As the admission of air, and a 
proper mode of watering is of considerable 
importance in all kind of forcing, I will make 
a few observations thereon, being satisfied that 
many failures take place through neglect, or a 
want of knowledge on the subject. 

From the commencement of the forcing, I 



DIFFERENT FORCING HOUSES. 249 



would recommend fresh air to be admitted into 
the house every day, unless the frost is in- 
tensely severe, or the air so saturated with fog. 
or otherwise filled with humidity, that it is 
really dangerous ; otherwise, if it is but five 
minutes in the day, with merely a crack here 
and there at the top, to let out a little of the 
confined air, it will be of service to the plants ; 
and during the early part of the forcing, from 
half an hour to an hour, or from that to two, in 
the middle of the day, being guided by the 
warmth of the external atmosphere, and em- 
bracing as much as possible the opportunity 
whep the sun shines ; but still, at the early part 
of the forcing, the air should be admitted spar- 
ingly, by sliding open some of the glasses only ; 
but, as the season advances, and the sun has 
proportionate influence, so should the admis- 
sion of air increase from eleven till two or three ; 
and in very warm weather, and the power of 
the sun is great, the house may be opened 
earlier in the morning, and shut later in the 
afternoon, and so be guided according to the 

m 5 



250 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 



state of the weather, but always be sure to shut 
close, whenever it turns suddenly cold. 

Watering is another most essential thing to 
be attended to, for much injury is often done to 
the plants, through neglect, irregular, or im- 
proper waterings ; the borders in the forcing 
house, where the trees are planted, should be 
moderately watered when they appear dry, also 
occasionally all over the trees, except while in 
bloom ; for then it is apt to destroy the fructi- 
fication, by preventing the proper action of the 
farina ; but after the fruit is well set, repeated 
waterings over the branches will be beneficial. 
The above remarks will apply to tree fruits gene- 
rally : likewise plants in pots, which may have 
been introduced into the forcing house, they 
should be watered very sparingly at first, but 
the watering should always be repeated imme- 
diately they appear dry ; and as they advance 
in growth, and particularly when coming into 
bloom, they will require to be watered much 
more copiously ; always use rain water for pre- 
ference, and in the absence of that, use soft 
pond water, and it is very desirable to have a 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 



251 



tank, with the water kept about the heat of 
house ; for by using cold water, particularly in 
very cold weather, it causes a great chill to the 
trees and plants. 

PRUNING FRUIT TREES IN FORCING HOUSES . 
"WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR TRAINING. 

Par. 40. — Pruning of fruit trees in the forcing 
house, may be done any time after November, 
till near the time for forcing : but generally for 
peaches, nectarines. &c. it is better to prune them 
two or three weeks before the forcing is com- 
menced ; the methods usually adopted for pruning 
in the open air. may serve as a guide for pruning 
in the forcing house, I may here remark, for the 
information of those who are accustomed :c 
prune peaches indiscriminately, by cutting back 
all the young wood : that some sorts, particularly 
some of the finest varieties of Trench peaches, 
and the best bearers, are not unusually covered 
with bloom buds, nearly all up the young fruit- 
bearing wood, without a leaf bud to cut to. 

When such is the case, the shoots should net 
be shortened, which is the general practice, for 



252 



PRUNING FRUIT TREES 



the top bud of the shoot is sure not to be a 
bloom bud. I scarcely need remark, that when 
there is not a bud to shoot above the bloom, 
although the fruit may set and swell till it gets 
to a tolerable size, it will never come to perfec- 
tion ; at the same time, by cutting back a 
sufficient quantity of young wood, or the last 
year's bearers, the body of the tree may alw r ays 
be kept well supplied with bearing wood. 

In the winter pruning, it is likewise necessary 
to free the trees of some of the most unfruitful 
wood, and such of the old that is unserviceable, 
to make room for the young bearing wood ; and 
I wish particularly to impress on the minds of 
my readers, the necessity, I say absolute ne- 
cessity, if you wish to preserve the health of the 
trees, of removing all little dead snags, and take 
care that your knife is sharp, and remove them 
clean until you cut to a sound place ; for simple 
as those little snags may appear, they frequently 
cause the tree to canker, and the constitution 
of the tree (if I may use the terra) to become 
diseased ; and if any blister or canker appears, 
do not fear to use the knife, and make it clean 



IN FORCING HOUSES. 



253 



till you come all round to sound bark ; if the tree., 
could speak it would thank you. 

Having retained a sufficient quantity of the 
one year old shoots on all parts of the tree, after 
cutting away the ill placed, let them be trained 
at regular distances to the trellis : such of the 
peaches and nectarines which it may be thought 
advisable to shorten the young shoots of, that 
are left for bearing, the usual practice is to cut 
them back about one-third ; but it is not custo- 
mary to shorten plums, cherries, nor figs, but as 
cherries and plums will bear for several years 
on the same branches, upon small side spurs, 
these, at the winter pruning, must not be removed, 
at least as long as they continue fruitful, and at 
this season, retain some young well- placed 
shoots, to supply the places of the old as they 
decline bearing. 

The summer pruning of trained fruit trees, 
particularly peaches and nectarines, rests chiefly 
with preserving a sufficient quantity of the most 
regular side young shoots for fruiting the ensu- 
ing year, and the removal of the foreright shoots ; 
and those which are ill placed, and all such 
which appear superfluous, and of improper strong 



254 BLIGHTS IN FORCING HOUSES. 

growth; this pruning is best performed when 
the shoots are about five or six inches long ; then 
let the young shoots which have been retained 
be trained in a regular manner to the trellis, &c, 
and the training be repeated as the growth of 
the trees may render it necessary during the 
summer. 

BLIGHTS AND INSECTS ON TREES, HOW TO PRE- 
VENT AND DESTROY IN FORCING HOUSES. 

Par. 41. — Forcing houses are at times infest- 
ed with small insects of various kinds, and the 
fruit trees are at times seriously attacked, 
blighting the leaves, and causing them to 
crumple and shrivel, and the young shoots also 
frequently become stunted, which often proves 
very prejudicial to the fruit if not early attended 
to, for when they appear, they generally increase 
very fast. 

The most effectual way to prevent and destroy 
them is by smoking the house with tobacco ; this 
may be done with fumigating bellows, or occa- 
sionally smoking the house thoroughly with a 
smoking pot, with burning tobacco therein, 
having a hole in the side to blow the tobacco 



FRUIT TREES AFTER FORCING. 255 

with bellows, in this way a strong thick smoke 
can be produced, which will greatly assist in 
destroying the vermin ; but as many will fall to 
the ground apparently lifeless from suffocation, 
but will afterwards recover and ascend the trees 
again, a tolerable watering over the borders, 
immediately after the smoking, will effectually 
destroy them, also by syringing the trees it will 
dislodge those which may not have fallen ; this 
system of smoking is by no means to be dreaded, 
on the contrary, it is beneficial to the trees, and 
if occasionally performed even in the absence of 
insects, it will assist the growth of the trees, and 
also promote the swelling of the fruit, and with 
proper care and attention the house may always 
be kept free, at least sufficiently free from in- 
sects, to prevent them from being seriously 
injurious. 

THE SEASONS THE DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF 
FRIT1T GENERALLY ATTAIN MATURITY IN 
FORCING HOUSES. 

Par. 42. — By the foregoing practice in 
forcing fruit trees, the different varieties may 
be expected to ripen in the following order. 



256 FRUIT TREES AFTER FORCING. 



Grapes, by early and powerful forcing, some 
may be expected in May 5 and a general crop 
in June and July, and the late kinds in Au- 
gust. 

Peaches, nectarines, apricots, figs and plums, 
in May, June and July ; cherries in April, and 
early in May; strawberries in March, and a 
succession continued, according as they are 
introduced into the house. 

TREATMENT OF FRUIT TREES AFTER FORCING. 

Par. 43. — After the forcing season is over, 
and the fruit gathered, the trees ought to be 
exposed to the open air as much as possible, by 
removing the whoie of the moveable lights both 
above and below, to give them the benefit of the 
sun, air, rains, dews, &c, during the remainder 
of the summer and autumn, this will harden the 
young shoots, and tend greatly to strengthen 
the trees for the next forcing season. 



CHAPTER III. 



Contains directions for growing Melons, with instructions 
how to raise early Strawberries ; also many useful and 
ornamental plants in forcing houses. 

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 

Par. 44. — In the last chapter I have laid 
down rules for the forcing all the leading vari- 
eties of tree fruits, with such illustrations and 
comments, which I think will render the practice 
easy to every one who has any pretensions to 
gardening, and which rules, if properly carried 
out, will be found to produce the most successful 
results. It is now my intention, in order to 
render this work as complete as possible, in 



258 



GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 



ever) 7 thing relating to forcing fruits, to furnish 
directions for growing melons; likewise the most 
approved methods of forcing strawberries; to 
which will be added some useful remarks, for 
forcing ornamental plants, in the various depart- 
ments of the forcing houses ; with directions for 
raising many useful articles for culinary pur- 
poses. 

NATURE OF THE MELON PLANT, ITS CULTURE, 
AND DESCRIPTION OF THE FRUIT. 

Par. 45. — The melon plant, which is one of the 
most tender belonging to our kitchen garden, is 
an annual of slender trailing growth, and upon 
these long slender herbaceous vines, they produce 
fruit remarkable for its size and richness of fla- 
vour ; indeed by many it is held in quite as great 
estimation as the pine ; therefore an account of 
its culture will not be contrary to the spirit of 
this work, and more particularly as the melon 
cannot be brought to anything like perfection 
without the assistance of hotbeds; and by the 
directions which will be hereafter given, the 
fruit can be produced in perfection in May and 



NATURE OF THE MELON PLANT, &C. 259 

June, and supplies continued till October and 
November. 

The plants are always raised from seed ; those 
required for the early crop are sown in winter, 
and for the main crops in spring ; the plants 
must be raised in a hotbed, which is generally 
done in a small one first, where they remain till 
two, three, or four inches high, when they will 
be of a proper age for transplanting into the 
large melon frames, where they are to remain 
for fruiting ; but where there is a hothouse with 
a bark bed, or other sufficient heat to raise the 
plants in, if a small dung hotbed is not wanted 
early for other purposes, the seed may be sown 
therein, and be transplanted direct into the 
fruiting frames ; but the general methods will 
be found more fully explained in the following 
paragraphs, under their proper heads. 

DIFFERENT VARIETIES OF THE MELON, WtTH 
OBSERVATIONS. 

Par. 46. — All the varieties of melons may be 
considered exotics of very tender nature ; of 
these, the Romana is one of the earliest and 



260 VARIETIES OF THE MELOX, &C. 



most plentiful bearers, and is, although small, a 
very good fruit. The cantaleupe melons are 
highly esteemed, the flavour being very superior, 
and greatly prized by those fond of this fruit 
for their extreme richness; they grow large, of 
a roundish form, and deeply ribbed ; and al- 
though they do not bear so plentifully as some, 
they are generally preferred for the principal 
crops for private use; the green flesh, the smooth 
green rind, and the common ribbed, are also 
very fine, and the above may be considered 
equal, if not superior, to the other varieties for 
general culture; yet, as others have their ad- 
mirers, I will give a list of names of those 
usually cultivated: 

Cantaleupe Melon Green-fleshed Melon 

Rock Cantaleupe Melon Green Smooth Melon 

Silver Cantaleupe Melon Oblong Ribbed Melon 

Black Rock Cantaleupe Melon Netted Plain Melon 
Orange Cantaleupe Melon Netted Ribbed Melon 
Early Romana Melon Large White Melon. 



The fruit of the different varieties of melons 
varies greatly both in size and appearance, being 



SOILS FOR GROWING MELONS. 261. 

round, oblong, oval, smooth-rind, depressed, 
ribbed, netted, carbuncled, mostly red fleshed, 
and some green fleshed, &c, the whole of the 
varieties producing a rich and highly esteemed 
table fruit when ripe ; the young green fruit is 
also used for mangoes. 

SOILS PROPER FOR GROWING MELONS. 

Par. 47. — The compost for growing melons in, 
should be prepared in the autumn, prior to its be- 
ing used, or at least some considerable time before 
it is wanted, in order that it may be well mixed, 
and in proper condition to receive the young 
plants ; for this purprse take half or two-thirds 
of rich light surface loam, dug fresh from a com- 
mon or pasture field, the remainder of thorough- 
ly rotted dung from old hotbeds, and rich garden 
mould, in about equal proportions; or if a part 
is rotten cow-dung, it will prove beneficial: those 
should be all thoroughly mixed together in a 
heap or ridge where it is exposed to the sun, 
rains, &c, turning it over three or four times to 
well break, and cause it the more effectually to 
mix ; and before placing it in the frames, take 



262 



PREPARING DUNG; &C. 



such quantity as may be required into a shed 
under cover for two or three weeks, that it may 
dry to a proper moisture for the hotbed. 

PREPARING DUNG, &C. FOR THE HOTBEDS FOR 
RAISING MELONS. 

Par. 48. — Hotbeds for growing melons are 
generally made of stable dung, being the most 
easily obtained ; of which prepare a sufficient 
quantity in proper time to have it in good order 
by the time the beds are required to be made, 
choosing that which is fresh and in a lively, 
steaming state, the long and short mixed up 
together in a heap, letting it lay for a week ; 
then turn it over, and well mix it, and in about 
another week turn it over again. By this process 
it will properly ferment, discharge the rank 
steam, and become of a proper temperature to 
be made into a bed ; and when the heat of the 
bed declines, and linings are required, prepare a 
sufficient quantity from time to time for that 
purpose also. Melons are likewise grown very 
successfully in bark hotbeds. These beds retain a 



SEED PROPER FOR SOWINGU 263 

long regular heat, choosing the tan in the same 
state as described for bark-bed pits. 

SEED PROPER FOR SOWING. 

Par. 49. — With regard to the seed of melons, 
it should be saved from the earliest and finest 
fruit, which has thoroughly ripened ; and when 
three or four years old at the time of sowing, it 
generally proves more successful, as the plants 
raised from new seed grow very luxuriantly, in 
which case the fruit seldom sets so soon or freely 
as on those plants raised from old seed. 

OBSERVATIONS ON RAISING MELONS IN DIFFERENT 
WAYS ; THE TIMES FOR SOWING THE SEED ; 
REMARKS ON WATERING, AND SEASONS OF 
RIPENING. 

Par. 50.— Speaking generally of the culture 
of melons, they are raised chiefly in three prin- 
cipal crops, although, if preferred, they may be 
sown more frequently, at two or three weeks 
interval. The first is sown in January or Fe- 
bruary, from which, ripe fruit may be expected in 
May and June, and sometimes as early as April; 



264 OBSERVATIONS ON RAISING MELONS, &C. 

but for a more general and certain crop, to be 
also cultivated in frames under lights, the end of 
February or beginning of March for sowing the 
seed proves the most successful, and the fruit 
will come to perfection about July and August. 
The third and last crop should be sown late in 
March or beginning of April, for planting out 
under hand-glasses, to produce ripe fruit in Au- 
gust. September, and October. 

When the plants have grown too large for the 
hand-glasses, (in the absence of frames with 
lights.) oiled paper frames may be placed over 
them, by which means good crops of late melons 
are produced with proper management, which 
will hereafter be fully explained. 

Melons in any stage of their growth are by no 
means fond of excessive moisture, neither to the 
earth or over the plants. It will cause the roots 
to rot, and frequently the main' stem : it will 
likewise prevent the young fruit from setting 
kindly, and much wet will considerably dete- 
riorate the flavour of the fruit, if applied while 
ripening. Consequently they ought to be kept 
at all times in a very moderate state of moisture. 



HOTBEDS FOR RAISING MELONS, &C. 265 



METHOD OF MAKING HOTBEDS FOR RAISING 
MELON PLANTS ; WITH THEIR MANAGE- 
MENT THEREIN. 

Par. 51. — Having ready for sowing such kinds 
of melon seed as may be intended for the earliest 
crop, make a small hotbed for a one light frame, 
(a larger if required for other purposes,) making 
the bed with fresh stable dung, about three feet 
or three feet and a half high. Immediately 
place on the frame and glasses, which will defend 
the bed from the weather and draw up the heat 
sooner than when left open, giving vent to the 
rank steam, by raising the glass or glasses at 
the upper or north end. When the bed is of 
a proper temperature, place the soil or compost 
on the top of the dung inside the frame, about 
five or six inches thick. Then fill two or three 
garden pots or more (according to the number 
of sorts intended to be sown) with the same sort 
of earth, and plunge them a little way into the 
earth of the bed, sowing the seed therein, and 
lightly covering it ; likewise sow some seed in 
the earth of the bed, in order to embrace a 



266 HOTBEDS FOR "RAISING MELONS, 

double chance of success ; but the sowing in 
pots should in no case be omitted, in case the 
heat of the bed should prove too violent ; and if 
that should happen, the pots are easily drawn up 
farther from the dung, or if necessary, quite out 
of the earth. 

When the forcing of cucumbers has com- 
menced, there will be no necessity for preparing 
a hotbed for raising the melon plants, as the 
same mean temperature is suitable to both ; and 
the seed may be sown either in the earth of the 
cucumber bed, or in pots plunged therein at the 
back part of the frame. In either case, when the 
plants have come up three or four days, and 
while in the lobes or seed leaf, transplant (or 
what is more generally termed prick) them into 
small pots, two plants in each, and then plunge 
the pots in the earth of the hotbed ; or some 
may be pricked into the earth of the bed, but 
they are much better in pots, as they are ready 
for turning out with the whole ball into the 
frames, where they are intended for fruiting. But 
while in the seedbed be careful to cover the 
glasses with mats every night, admitting air 



WITH THEIR MANAGEMENT. 267 

every day more or less as the weather will per- 
mit, by raising the glasses behind, from a mere 
crack to a quarter of an inch, an inch or more, 
in proportion to the heat of the bed and external 
atmosphere ; shutting close when extremely cold, 
but in moderate weather shut by degrees. Should 
there be a great steam and strong heat, which 
is sometimes the case in the early part after the 
bed is made, a small portion of air may be 
admitted during the night, to give vent to the 
rank steam, covering the aperture with a garden 
mat, hanging over it from the top of the glasses. 
This same precaution may be observed in de- 
fending the bed in the day time, when the steam 
and heat may render it necessary to admit fresh 
air, in exceeding cold weather. 

When the heat of the bed has become mo- 
derate, keep the glasses close at night, but give 
air in favourable weather daily. Cover the 
glasses every evening about sun-set with garden 
mats, one, two, or three thick, according to the 
heat of the bed, uncovering in the morning, and 
when the earth appears dry, give light waterings; 
and be sure in the early stage of the bed to 

n 2 



268 



HOTBEDS FOR EARLY 



examine it daily, and if the heat appears too 
violent, immediately draw up the pots, until the 
burning heat has subsided. 

The plants may remain in the first or nursery 
frame till they have two or three rough leaves 
two or three inches broad ; then they will be of 
proper growth for ridging out into the main 
fruiting hotbed. 

MAKING THE FRUITING HOTBEDS FOR EARLY 
AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS ; WITH 
THEIR MANAGEMENT THEREIN COPIOUSLY 
LAID DOWN. * 

Par. 52. — We next proceed to prepare the 
hotbed for fruiting the melons : this should be 
made a week or more before finally transplanting 
the plants, or what is more generally termed 
ridging out for fruiting, in order that the bed may 
be of a proper temperature to receive them. 

The bed should be made on the level ground, 
about three feet and a half high, of stable dung 
properly prepared, as before directed, and of 
such dimensions, horizontally, as the size and 
number of frames will require ; but three light 



AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 269 

frames are to be preferred for growing melons to 
maturity. As soon as the bed is made a proper 
height with the dung, and regularly levelled, 
place on the frame lights ; and when the violent 
heat has subsided, which will generally be the 
case from about a week to ten days, bring in the 
earth, (that having been already prepared as 
before directed,) laying it in a round heap under 
the centre of each light, about a foot or fifteen 
inches thick, covering the other part of the bed 
only about three inches deep, until the heat has 
become more moderate. 

When the hills or ridges of earth have become 
warm, either on the same or following day, put in 
the plants in the middle of the hill, removing 
them from the pots with the balls entire about 
the roots. Place two plants under each light, 
but some consider one plant sufficient in each 
hill, and particularly of the cantaleupe. When 
planted, give a little water round the extremities 
of the fibres, and then close the frames to draw- 
up the heat ; but when the steam begins to get 
strong, raise the lights at the back half an inch 
or more to give vent, and in the same manner 



270 



HOTBEDS FOR EARLY 



give air daily to the plants ; or sometimes it is 
also necessary, in the early stage of the bed to 
admit a little air during the night, if the heat is 
violent and the steam strong ; but in this case 
defend the aperture, by letting a garden mat 
hang over it from the top, and this will also be 
requisite in the day time, when the winds are 
cold and cutting; but when the heat is moderate, 
the frames may be kept close at night. Cover 
the glasses every evening about sunset with one 
or more mats thick, as the heat of the bed and 
the atmosphere will dictate. 

It is a very essential thing in early hotbed 
- forcing to lay dry litter round the sides, tolerably 
thick, which will greatly defend the beds from 
snow and heavy rains, and the inclemency of the 
weather generally. This will greatly prevent 
their chilling, and the heat from suddenly de- 
clining, which is often the case when this is not 
done, and frequently proves very injurious to the 
plants, and sometimes ends in the loss of the 
crop ; but by the above precautionary protection 
in an early stage of the hotbed, the heat will 
continue regular, and of much longer duration. 



AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 271 

When the bed has become of a regular kind 
heat, bring in more earth, laying it first near the 
sides of the frame to get warm ; then apply it 
round the hills where the plants are, likewise 
adding more on the surface of the bed between 
the hills, and by two or three earthings, by 
degrees the whole should be earthed up even 
with the top of the hills, and at each earthing 
press the mould down close ; for by having the 
soil made tolerably firm and of the depth recom- 
mended, it will be sufficient to nourish the plants 
without much watering, particularly when the 
soil is of a loamy nature. Nevertheless, moderate 
waterings will be necessary at times, when the 
earth becomes dry ; it should be given generally 
at a distance from the plants, but this should be 
very moderate indeed while the fruit is setting, 
and also while ripening, for while in a young 
state, if watered too abundantly, it will cause the 
fruit to turn yellow and decay, and when ap- 
proaching to maturity, it will retard its ripening 
and injure its flavour ; therefore never water over 
the fruit while in a very young state, but apply 
the water between the runners of the plants. 



272 



HOTBEDS FOR EARLY 



pouring it out of the spout of the watering-pot 
on a flat piece of tile, that it may not disturb the 
earth, and the tile will cause the water to spread 
more over the surface. But after a full crop is 
thoroughly set and in an advanced state of 
growth, occasional waterings may be given mo- 
derately over \he plants ; but never water over 
the plants in the heat of the day, while the sun 
shines powerfully, but either in the morning 
about eight or nine o'clock, or in the afternoon 
after three. When the runners are pushing 
forth, they should be stopped by pinching, or 
cutting off the tops of the shoots, to promote the 
strength of the plants, and to furnish more run- 
ners, and the new runners should also be stopped 
at the third joint, to get a further supply, to fill 
the bed with bearing vines ; and as they advance 
in growth, train them in proper order over all 
parts of the bed. 

It will be requisite to admit air every day, 
except in exceedingly cold weather, by tilting 
the glasses at the back, in proportion to the heat 
of the bed and the temperature of the atmos- 
phere, closing the lights by degrees in the after- 



AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 273 

noon ; and all times when the weather changes 
very cold, shut close, and also every night, and 
more particularly when the bed is an advanced 
state. 

The covering the glasses with mats by night 
may be continued, more or less, till the middle 
of June, to be guided by the season and the 
temperature of the weather, uncovering in the 
morning about sun-rise, or as soon after as 
convenient. In hot weather, when the sun 
appears too powerful for the plants, so as to 
cause them to flag, afford them a slight shade, 
by laying over the glasses a thin mat, or a little 
light litter for about three or four hours, during 
the great heat of the sun, in the middle of the 
day. 

Should the plants become very crowded in the 
frame, by the vines becoming too numerous, 
thin them out by cutting away some of the weak 
unfruitful runners. Likewise remove decayed 
clusters of male bloom, but not the fresh blos- 
soms, while the fruit is setting ; and thin out 
the old leaves, and always remove those which 
become decayed. 

n 5 



274 



HOTBEDS FOR EARLY 



Also should the plants press against the glass, 
and the frame become much crowded towards 
the end of June or beginning of Julv, the frame 
may be raised at bottom a few inches, to give 
more room above. 

When the fruit has advanced to a tolerable 
size, it is requisite they should be turned occa- 
sionally, which will cause them to be more 
regular in their growth, and assist the fruit in 
ripening more equally. 

It is generally necessary to continue the 
glasses constantly on the frames till the middle 
or end of June, but should be raised high in hot 
weather. After this time they may be taken 
off occasionally on dry days, but should be put 
on generally at night ; likewise the lights should 
always be kept on in wet or other unfavourable 
weather. 

The later crops of melons should be protected 
by keeping the glasses for the most part over 
the plants, giving plenty of air in warm w r eather, 
and about the middle or end of August, (par- 
ticularly if the season is wet and cold,) it may 
be requisite to line the frame and bed round 



AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS. 275 

with dry litter or waste hay ; and if there is any 
fruit left, which is not expected to ripen till 
October, give an additional lining of hot dung 
about the middle of September. At this late 
season it will greatly assist the ripening of the 
fruit, by promoting a moderate bottom heat. 

MANNER OF TREATING MELONS WHEN IN 
BLOOM. 

Par. 53. — When the plants come into bloom, 
a good heat should be kept, and as regular as 
possible ; this will greatly assist the setting of 
the fruit. Also, at the early season of the plants 
blooming, when bees and other winged insects 
are scarce among the flowers, impregnating the 
female blossoms with the male, generally proves 
of considerable service, by causing the fruit to 
set well, and swell off immediately. This is 
done in the same way that is usually practised 
in growing early cucumbers, by taking a fresh 
male flower, commonly called the false blossom, 
on the same day, both the male and female 
expand ; take away the petal or flower leaf of the 
male bloom, leaving only the central part, which 



276 TREATMENT OF MELONS IN BLOOM. 

contains the farina ; apply this to the centre of 
the female, to discharge some of the farina 
therein, and then withdraw the male part. 

The male and female flowers are both pro- 
duced on the same plant, the female always 
showing the young fruit at the base of the 
flower. As the fruit sets and begins to swell, 
either pinch off the runner to the third joint, or 
turn the point of the runner inwards. This will 
assist the young fruit to swell, by directing the 
nourishment of the plant more effectually to it ; 
also as the fruit sets and begins to swell, place a 
piece of tile underneath each, to keep it from 
rotting, which, if neglected, it will frequently do, 
through the moisture arising from the earth ; 
and if one or two fruit can be procured on each 
runner it will be sufficient, particularly when 
fine fruit is the prevailing consideration. 

INSTRUCTIONS FOR RENEWING THE HEAT OF 
THE HOTBED BY LININGS. 

Par. 54. — It is necessary, in all stages of the 
hotbed, to occasionally examine the heat, with 
the view to support a proper temperature ; there- 



RENEWING HOTBED HEAT BY LININGS. 277 

fore, when the heat has declined considerably, 
it should be renewed as speedily as possible, by 
applying linings of hot dung to the sides, about 
one foot and a half wide, and three or four inches 
above the dung of the bed, to allow for settling ; 
but it is by no means a desirable plan to raise 
the linings much higher than the dung of the 
bed, for that is apt to burn the earth within the 
frame ; the steam also will draw into the frame, 
and frequently proves injurious, by scalding the 
leaves, and perhaps kill the plants. This may 
be prevented, by laying several inches of earth 
on the top of the linings, which will not only 
confine the steam, but keep the heat in below. 
In most cases the back part is lined first, and the 
front in about a week after, unless the heat of 
the bed has become very much reduced : in that 
case, the lining had better be completed at 
once. 

It will be necessary to examine the linings in 
their early state, to find whether the heat is too 
violent, for that may communicate to the bed 
and earth, and scorch the roots of the plants ; 
therefore should such by chance take place, 



278 REMARKS RELATIVE TO MELONS. 

remove the upper part of the linings, or the 
whole if necessary, for a day or two, and then 
apply them again more moderately. 

By this practice of renewing the linings as the 
old becomes decayed, a constant regular heat 
will be supported till June, which is essential, 
both for the growth of the plauts and the swell- 
ing of the fruit. 

REMARKS RELATIVE TO MELONS WHILE 
RIPENING. 

Par. 55. — The maturity of melons will appear 
in different ways; — by the full size of the fruit, 
and in some kinds by changing yellow ; but all 
the varieties impart a powerful rich odour ; also 
at times the stalk, joining the base of the fruit, 
will crack open, apparently ready to separate 
from it ; — all these appearances denote that the 
melons have arrived to a sufficient state of 
maturity for gathering, which should be done 
before the fruit is over ripe. Cut with it most 
of the stalk, which is attached to the fruit ; 
or if there is no other fruit growing above on 
that vine, it is usual to cut a small piece of the 



LATE CROPS OF MELONS. 



279 



runner also. In the mornings before the heat of 
the day, is the most preferable time for cutting 
the melons, while they are cool and fresh, as 
they are considered to eat with a more rich and 
agreeable flavour : lay them in a cool dry place, 
till they are required for table. 

If melons are cut before too ripe, they will 
keep good for several days, when any particular 
occasion may render it desirable. 

LATE CROPS OP MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES, 
ETC. 

Par* 56. — Good late crops of melons may be 
produced in August, September, and October, 
in fine dry seasons, by being ridged out on hot- 
beds, under hand-glasses, raising the plants in a 
frame hotbed, by sowing the seed in March 
or beginning of April, where they should remain 
three or four weeks, till they have produced two 
or three rough leaves. Then at the end of April 
or beginning of May, ridge them out on large 
hotbeds prepared for the purpose under hand- 
glasses, at three or four feet apart, along the 
middle of the bed. About the end of May, or 



280 



LATE CROPS OF MELONS 



beginning of June, when the plants have filled 
the glasses, they must be raised three or four 
inches upon props, for the vines to run over the 
bed. 

These crops of melons may consist of any of 
the varieties ; but the common ribbed, oblong 
ribbed, netted, and the Romana, may be mostly 
depended on for plentiful crops, the plants being 
treated in a similar way to the directions given 
in the paragraph for the early crop. 

The hotbeds for these late crops may either 
be made in trenches or on the level ground, but 
those made in April or the beginning of May it 
will be advisable to make on the level ground, as 
the heat may decline in three or four weeks ; 
and if cold weather should ensue, it may be 
necessary to line the beds, to revive the heat, and 
by this plan they may be lined from the bottom. 

The treatment of the surface of the bed to 
be nearly the same as directed for early forcing, 
both as to the hills or ridges for planting the 
plants in, and also as to filling up the remainder 
of the bed to the level of the hills by degrees : 
put the glasses on the hills, and when the earth 



UNDER HAND-GLASSES, &C. 281 

is warm, put in the plants, removing them from 
the pots with the balls entire, with two plants in 
each, give them a moderate watering, and put 
down the glasses and shade them for a few days 
until they have made fresh roots, after which, 
raise the glasses a little on the south side to give 
air, but keep them close at nights, and cover the 
glasses and also the* bed every night with thick 
garden mats, which ought to be continued till 
the middle of June ; the plants will require oc- 
casional waterings moderately in fine weather, 
and when the glasses have become crowded, 
they must be raised, and the runners trained out 
on the surface of the bed in regular order. 

When the beds are made in trenches or pits ? 
dig them out three or four feet wide, and two 
feet deep, fill them up with the prepared hot 
dung eight or ten inches above the surface, 
plant the plants on ridges as before directed, 
about twelve inches deep, and earth all over the 
top of the bed, and also the sides to keep in the 
heat, and so far extended, to make the beds six 
feet wide ; and raising it till it is about a foot 
thick all over the bed, or even with the top of 



282 



RAISING MELONS IN 



hills; in the absence of any other covering, keep 
the glasses over the centre of the plants, to de- 
fend the main roots and stem from heavy rains, 
&c; as the fruit advances in growth, it would 
be of advantage to place some of the best under 
the glasses, or those at a distance may be 
covered with spare glasses, especially when very- 
cold or wet weather is prevalent; but if spare 
frames with lights are at hand, about the middle 
of August, and placed over these beds, it will 
be by far a more effectual protection, and the 
fruit will ripen sooner, and in greater perfection, 
and towards autumn the glasses can be covered 
with mats on cold nights. 

RAISING MELONS IN OILED- PAPER FRAMES, 
WITH DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE FRAMES. 

Par. 57. — Fine crops of melons are produced 
by growing them under oiled-paper frames ; the 
plants being raised the same as directed for 
hand-glasses, and the beds prepared in the 
same way; they may either be covered with 
hand-glasses till June, or in want of hand- 
glasses the paper frames placed over them at 



OILED-PAPER FRAMES. 



283 



once. If first protected with hand-glasses, 
when the glasses become filled with the runners, 
remove the glasses, and place over the beds the 
oiled-paper frames, there to remain during the 
summer. 

The frames are formed of thin slips of wood, 
like pan-tile laths, or poles, similarly constructed 
to the roof of a house or an archway, ten feet 
long, by three and a half to four or five wide, 
and two and a half to three feet high, with two 
pannels made to open on one side with hinges. 

The bottom of the frame is made of slight 
wood-work, in which the small cross rafters are 
fixed, a foot apart, either in a ridge form or 
arched, and across these small rafters, pack- 
thread, or strong twine is placed along the 
frame lengthways, putting it round each rafter 
about a foot apart, and others drawn across the 
bed between the rafters, crossing or intersecting 
the other lines, which will serve to strengthen 
the rafters, and assist in supporting the paper ; 
then take some strong white demy paper, and 
paste on the rafters in a regular and neat man- 
ner, and when dry, brush the paper all over with 



284 MELONS IN OILED-PAPER FRAMES. 
I 

linseed oil ; this may be done with a soft paint- 
ing brush, using the oil on the outside only, and 
that but lightly; when this has become thorough- 
ly dry, the frames will be fit for use. 

Although the oiled- paper will be sufficiently 
water-proof to resist the rain, and keep off the 
cold ; it will form an agreeable shade for the 
plants, during the scorching rays of the sun in 
the height of summer, and through which pro- 
tection the plants thrive exceedingly, and pro- 
duce good crops of fruit, from the end of July 
till the beginning of October. After the frame 
has been placed over the plants, admit air every 
fine day by opening the side pannels of the 
frame, or if no pannels were made to open, raise 
the frame a few inches at bottom, and as occa- 
sion may require, give moderate waterings when 
the earth is dry, but be very moderate while 
the fruit is setting and ripening, for the reasons 
assigned for early crops. 

I may here remark that in very heavy rains 
or hail storms, which sometimes occur in the 
height of summer, it will be advantageous to 
spread mats over the frames, not only to pre- 



GROWING MELONS BY BARK-BED HEAT. 285 

I 

serve them from damage, but also to defend the 
bed as much as possible in very unfavourable 
weather; and by proper attention to growing late 
melons by this practice, not only fine crops are 
obtained, but the fruit (which for the most part 
will ripen in August and September) will also 
be of very good flavour. When melons are 
wanted for mangoes, they should be gathered 
while green, about a quarter or half-grown, and 
should be taken from the late crops, selecting 
those which are not likely to ripen. 

GROWING MELONS BY BARK-BED HEAT. 

Par. 58. — Melons grown by bark hotbed 
heat, are generally raised in very good perfec- 
tion, sometimes superior and with less trouble 
than those grown on dung hotbeds, and more 
particularly for general crops, such as are 
planted in February, March, or April, as the 
heat of the bark is of that kind, regular nature, 
and also so lasting, not being subject to heat 
violently, or decline suddenly like dung hotbeds, 
but will continue a moderate heat for two or 
three months, and the degree of heat produced 



286 GROWING MELONS BY 

by the bark is exceedingly well adapted to the 
nature of melons. 

The beds for this purpose must be made in a 
pit; or in a case, which may be made of post and 
planking, for the bark being of a loose nature, 
cannot be so conveniently formed into a bed 
without ; the best plan is to make them of bricks 
and mortar, sunk about one-third in the ground, 
being in the clear in depth about three feet in 
front, by four behind, the width, that of a large 
garden frame, to place on the top, or a frame 
work made for the glasses, fitted to, and fixed 
on the pit ; in the latter case, the pit may be 
sunk deeper, but in all cases melons ought to 
have about a foot of earth in depth, placed on 
the top of the hotbed. 

Where a pit can be constructed with hot 
water pipes, or fire-flues internally, it will be of 
great advantage, by rendering moderate assist- 
ance in severe weather, particularly after the 
heat of the bed has considerably declined, but 
such is not of so much importance except for 
very early forcing; but for commencing in Feb- 
ruary or early in March, it will be requisite that 



BARK-BED HEAT. 287 

the bark should be fresh but for later forcing, 
part of the waste bark from a hot-house, to the 
extent of one-third or a half, may be mixed with 
the new ; or in want of a sufficient quantity of 
tan to make the bed with wholly, of the size 
required, a part may be tan, and a part stable 
dung ; this may be made in a pit or without, as 
the dung will keep the bed in proper form, and 
the bark being mixed with the dung, the heat 
will be more durable than that of a bed made 
entirely of the latter. 

The plants at all seasons, if practicable, ought 
to have been previously raised, and of proper 
growth, with two or three rough leaves, by the 
time the principal hotbed for their reception is 
ready, otherwise they will be deprived of the 
advantages of the first and main heat of the 
bed ; but if such cannot be the case, the seed 
may be sown at once, where the plants are to 
remain ; treat these beds as directed for the 
other hotbeds, with regard to air, water, cover- 
ing, shading, &c. 



288 HOW TO PRESERVE MELON SEED. 



HOW TO SAVE AND PRESERVE MELON SEED. 

Par. 59. — To have good melon seed that will 
keep, it is of importance to select it from well- 
ripened fruit, and it is also preferable to save it 
from the earliest, and those grown near the stem 
of the plant, as the plants raised from such seed 
generally prove more productive, and the fruit 
set better than when saved from fruit grown on 
an advanced part of the vine 

When the melon is cut for eating, the pulp in 
the centre, in which the seed is intermixed, 
should be preserved, and the seed afterwards 
washed clean from the pulp, then spread it a few 
days to dry and properly harden ; after which, 
place each variety in separate packets, each 
packet being carefully labelled with the name 
of the sort, and date of the year w ritten thereon, 
then deposit it in any dry place until it is 
wanted. 

Seed saved, as above directed, will retain its 
vegetative qualities for several years; and, as 
I have before remarked, that it proves more 
productive when three or four years old, at 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS, &C. 



289 



the time of sowing, than the new seed ; the 
instructions I have given on this subject ought 
to receive their due force with those melon 
growers who have not themselves proved the 
difference. 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS ON THE GROWING OF 
STRAWBERRIES. 

Par. 60. — Strawberries, as a dessert fruit, de- 
serve to be prominently noticed, it being gene- 
rally admired for its delicious flavour, and as it 
can be obtained by forcing earlier than other 
fruits, it is a great acquisition for the dessert ; 
and as it can be forced in every forcing depart- 
ment, I think I shall not be trespassing by 
giving rather a detailed account of its culture. 

The strawberry may be brought to perfection 
by forcing, three months or more before its na- 
tural season for ripening in the open ground, 
particularly throughout the months of March, 
April, and May, and some (although not with 
so much success) much earlier: therefore, where 
there is convenience for forcing them in succes- 

o 



290 



STRAWBERRIES FOR FORCING. 



sion, they may be obtained oy the following 
rules until their natural season for ripening. 

Although I have said that strawberries may 
be brought to perfection in all forcing depart- 
ments, it maybe as well to remark that the forcing 
houses are the most convenient, (including the 
pinery, vinery, peach-house, &c.,) more so, and 
generally more successful than by forcing them 
in hotbeds, at the same time I intend to lay 
down the necessary rules for their general cul- 
ture in every department of forcing. 

DIFFERENT SORTS OF STRAWBERRIES PROPER 
FOR FORCING. 

Par. 61. — Many new varieties of strawberries 
have been raised within the last few years which 
have become celebrated, some for their size and 
beauty, some for their great bearing, and some 
have reached the character of being fine- fla- 
voured ; but being acquainted with the whole 
of these new sorts of any note, I nevertheless 
must give the preference for a general crop t 
the old scarlet, being one of the earliest and 
most successful forcers we have in cultivation, 



STRAWBERRIES FOR FORCING 291 

it being an excellent bearer, and the fruit of 
superior quality; although I have said thus 
much respecting this well-known fruit, yet there 
are several other very fine flavoured strawberries 
which ought to be cultivated both for their size 
and beauty, and also for the sake of a variety 
for table, particularly those which possess a rich 
flavour; and as the under mentioned strawberries 
will force successfully, they will form a fine col- 
lection. 

Keen's Imperial Wilmot's Superb 

Downton Roseberry 
Alpine New Hautboy 



The scarlet alpine is a plentiful bearer, both 
on the main stool, and also on the early runners 
of the former year; this strawberry, with the 
old scarlet, are decidedly two of the best for 
early forcing, and they produce a supply of long 
continuance. 



o 2 



292 CULTURE OF STRAWBERRY PLANTS 

MANNER OF RAISING AND CULTURE OF STRAW- 
BERRY PLANTS INTENDED FOR FORCING. 

Par. 62. — Strawberry plants for forcing should 
for the most part be in pots, thirty-twos is the 
size generally preferred for two years old plants ; 
at this age they attain proper strength for forc- 
ing; one year old runners are also sometimes 
forced, which if not very strong, will succeed in 
forty-eights; likewise three year old plants, 
being the greatest age, they ought to be ad- 
mitted into the forcing departments ; these ge- 
nerally succeed best in twenty-fours. 

The runners, when taken from the mother- 
plants in summer, may be immediately planted 
in pots, to remain till they are proper for forc- 
ing, or some of the late runners may be planted 
out in beds to remain till the following spring, 
or early in autumn, when they should be taken 
up with balls and potted, to get established by 
the ensuing forcing season ; or for hotbed forcing 
some may remain to be removed with balls 
direct from the nursery beds, and be planted in 
the earth of the hotbed. 



INTENDED FOR FORCING. 



293 



When selecting the plants for forcing, take 
them from healthy bearing beds in the open 
ground, making choice of the first produced 
runners of the year, which by nature takes root 
in the ground at the joints ; the early runners 
are generally of proper growth to detach for 
planting about May or June; but this may be 
done any time during the summer, or early in 
autumn, but the sooner they are transplanted 
the better; take them up with good roots, cut 
of the runner part from the plant, and whether 
planted in pots or beds, they ought to be placed 
in a shady situation. 

*The soil best suited for planting strawberries 
in pots, is light loam enriched with rotten dung, 
or any rich garden mould ; if the plants are 
not over large, place two in a pot, watering 
them at planting, and continue to supply them 
with repeated and plentiful waterings in dry 
weather. As they put forth runners, cut them 
off to strengthen the plants for fruiting ; this 
should be done both to those plants which are 
considered of sufficient strength for forcing the 
first year, and also those which are retained for 



294 STRAWBERRY PLANTS FOR FORCING. 

the second year, placing the plants on a warm 
border during the winter, or in a frame, to have 
occasional protection in severe weather, this will 
keep them in good condition for forcing. 

If the plants have grown very strong in the 
small-size pots, that they appear not likely to 
have room to receive sufficient nourishment to 
support them through, their fruiting, previous to 
removing them when they are to be forced, shift 
them with their entire balls into larger pots, 
from forty-eights to thirty-twos, or from thirty- 
twos to twenty-fours, placing a little fresh earth 
at the bottom of the pots, and fill up the sides 
thoroughly. In January, or earlier, some plants 
may be introduced, and a succession continued 
throughout February, March, and April, accord- 
ing as the forcing departments will admit. 

FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN THE PINERY. 

Par. 63. — Where there is a. pinery, or any 
general hothouse continually in cultivation by 
artificial heat, some pots of strawberries may be 
brought in as early as December or January : 
but about the end of January, and any time in 



FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN THE PINERY. 295 

February, is a better time to bring in a plentiful 
supply, as they generally prove much more suc- 
cessful than those brought in earlier; some may 
be placed over the flues, (if heated by them,) 
near the front and end glasses, on the front wall 
of the bark-bed, or if room, some may be 
plunged in the fore part of the bark-bed, which 
will considerably assist in forwarding the fruit, 
and also in any other convenient parts of the 
house near the glass ? and the different succes- 
sions may be brought in at two or three weeks 
interval, till the middle or end of April ; the 
principal culture being, during the time they are 
in*the forcing-house, to give them frequent wa- 
terings, not letting the earth get very dry, but 
while in bloom apply the water to the earth only, 
as watering over the blossom before the main 
crop of fruit is set, may prove injurious to the 
farina or pollen of the male, by which its fruc- 
tifying properties may lose their proper effect in 
impregnating the pistils of the female. 

As the plants put forth their runners, cut them 
off, in order to throw strength into the bloom 
and fruit, some of which may be expected to 



296 FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 



ripen in February, but in greater perfection and 
more plentiful in March and April; and by 
regular successions of plants, fine fruit may be 
obtained till the supplies in the open ground, 
about the end of May or beginning of June. 

FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN PEACH AND OTHER 
FRUIT-TREE FORCING HOUSES, ETC., INCLUDING 
VINERIES. 

Par. 64. — Forcing houses for fruit trees are 
admirably adapted for forcing strawberries, bring- 
ing them to great perfection ; some may be in- 
troduced as soon as the house is set in motion 
by artificial heat, and a succession continued as 
directed in the vinery ; and where there is a 
bark bed some should be plunged therein, which 
will forward them considerably ; and about the 
end of January or beginning of February place 
some forward near the glasses, also upon shelves 
in different parts of the house and in any other 
convenient situation, thus a supply may be con- 
tinued until the season for ripe strawberries in 
the open air. 



9 



FORCING STRAWBERRIES. 



297 



FORCING STRAWBERRIES IN HOT- BEDS, WITH 
USEFUL REMARKS. 

Par. 65.— In the absence of the convenience 
of hot-houses for producing early strawberries 
they may be forced by hotbeds under frames 
and lights, and they will come to tolerable per- 
fection about April ; these hotbeds may be 
made of stable dung, or of tanner's bark ; if 
convenient to make them of the latter, they are 
to be preferred, as the heat is more steady, 
kind, and durable, and generally proves more 
successful; but the bark hotbed must have a 
bricked pit, or a case of post and planking, to 
contain the bark in, otherwise its loose texture 
will make it inconvenient to form it into a bed. 
The beds should be about three feet deep, width 
according to the size of the frames, and length 
to what extent may be required. 

But a w T ell constructed pit of brick- work, 
about four feet deep in front, by five to six feet 
behind, to admit of hot water pipes, or a flue 
along the upper part at the back, or continued 
all round above the top of the bark-bed, will 

o 5 



298 



FORCING STRAWBERRIES 



be very beneficial to assist occasionally in cold 
weather, and more particularly when the heat 
of the bed becomes low ; then it would prove 
of great advantage to the plants : these beds 
may be made any time, from the middle or end 
of January, till about the middle of March, and 
when the bark is of a proper moderate heat, 
plunge the pots therein : by this practice good 
crops of early strawberries will be produced. 

Dung hotbeds for forcing strawberries may be 
made also from the end of January, in February , 
or March, in the same manner as is usual for 
making hotbeds of stable dung; set on the 

frames and lights, and when the bed is of a 
moderate heat, bring in the earth, and cover 
the bed about six or seven inches deep, in which 
to plunge the pots; or if not in pots, to plant 
the plants in, which should be taken if possible 
immediately from the nursery bed to that of the 
hotbed, with as much ball about the roots as can 
be preserved; after the bed is planted, and a 
moderate watering given to the plants, put on 
the glasses, and give vent to the steam arising 
from the bed, then cover the glasses every night 



IN HOTBEDS. 



299 



with mats, &c. ; and when the plants are in a * 
growing state, admit air daily when mild, and 
more freely when the sun shines, and especially 
when in bloom, and the fruit is setting. Support 
the heat when it declines by linings of hot dung, 
and treat the plants in every other respect as 
directed for their culture in the hothouse. 

If convenient to have ten or twelve inches of 
bark to place on the top of the dung hotbed 
instead of mould, to plunge the pots in, it will 
prove of advantage to the crops. On the other 
hand, when the plants are intended for the bark 
pit without pots, mould should be placed on the 
bark, about six inches thick, to receive the 
plants ; although the plants will grow, and often 
do tolerably well, by being planted in the bark. 

When the plants have not been properly pre- 
pared for forcing, as before directed, or not a 
sufficiency for the purposes required, some plants 
may be taken up from the natural beds in the 
open ground, and be immediately potted, or 
transplanted with balls direct in the hotbed. 
Observe, in bark-bed forcing, should the heat 
become very weak, take up the pots and fork up 



300 FORCING STRAWBERRIES, &C. 

the tan, which will revive the heat, and then 
replunge them immediately. As the plants 
advance in growth, be careful to attend to the 
watering. They will require a greater supply to 
the earth while in bloom and the fruit setting : 
but when the fruit is ripening, very little should 
given, in order to preserve the rich flavour of the 
fruit. 

Therefore in hotbeds, either of dung or tan, 
supplies may be produced in succession, by in- 
troducing the plants at different times, and by 
occasional linings to the former, and forking up 
the latter, the heat may be revived to produce 
fruit, until the strawberries arrive at maturity in 
the open ground ; and for the purpose of having 
plants which may be depended on for fruiting 
successfully, it is advisable to have fresh supplies 
prepared for forcing, as formerly described, every 
season, which will preclude the necessity of for- 
cing the plants a second time, which seldom 
proves so successful as fresh plants. 



FORCING RASPBERRIES. 

Par. 66. — The raspberry as a table fruit being 



FORCING RASPBERRIES. 



301 



highly esteemed, and, when produced early , 
highly appreciated as a variety, deserves to be 
noticed, as they will produce good crops of early 
fruit of tolerable flavour, by forcing. Any of the 
varieties will force, but the double bearing, both 
red and white, and the red Antwerp, generally 
prove very successful. 

The plants should be two or three years old 5 
having two, three, or four canes (young shoots 
of the year) to each, and taken up from the 
open ground, in the autumn previous to the 
forcing, and potted in twenty-fours or sixteen 
size pots, letting some of the earth remain about 
the fibres: light rich loam or garden mould will 
suit for potting them in. If potted early in Oc- 
tober, they will take fresh root almost imme- 
diately, which will greatly strengthen them by 
the forcing season, and cause them to set their 
fruit more freely, and likewise to become much 
finer than when potted late in the season, or 
immediately previous to forcing. The plants 
after potting should be placed in a sheltered 
situation during the winter months, until they 
are removed to the forcing house. 



302 



FORCING RASPBERRIES. 



The peachery, or any other tree-fruit forcing 
house, or the vinery, when not too powerfully 
forced, will suit for forcing raspberries. The 
most convenient part of the house for this pur- 
pose, and where they will succeed well, is the 
centre, where there is no bark pit, or trees 
planted. Therefore in that case, in the centre 
space of the house plunge the pots, in cross rows, 
about fifteen inches plant from plant, and eighteen 
row from row, the canes being loosely tied to- 
gether with bass. The plants may be introduced 
successfully about the beginning or middle of 
February, or earlier, if thought proper, but this 
fruit will have little or no flavour until the sun 
has sufficient power to render assistance to the 
ripening; and although we are subjected to 
severe cutting winds in March, the sun generally 
has great influence ; at the end of which month, 
and throughout April and May, good fruit may 
be obtained. 

When the potting has been omitted, as directed 
above, some plants may be taken up with as 
much earth as will remain about the roots, and 
be either potted immediately before forcing, or 



FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. 



303 



taken direct to the forcing bouse, and planted in 
the earth of the house, when there is a space in 
the centre vacant. Where there is no vacancy 
for plunging the pots, some may be introduced 
in convenient places in the lower part of the 
house ; but they succeed decidedly better when 
plunged, and more particularly when potted 
early. 

RAISING KIDNEY BEANS IN FORCING-HOUSES, 
ETC. 

Par. 67.— Kidney beans can be brought for- 
ward in any of the forcing departments, to be fit 
for use in March, and a succession continued 
till the crops in the open ground are fit to 
gather, by commencing setting the seed in 
January, when any forcing has commenced. 

The earliest crops are generally raised in 
twenty-fours (size pots) ; these should be filled 
within an inch and a half of the brim (well shook 
down) of rich light soil ; then set four or five 
beans in each, and cover them over about an inch 
thick with the same sort of soil, which should be 
tolerably dry. Place them in the forcing house 



304 



FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. 



near the glass, or in such a part as is most con- 
venient. The seed will soon germinate, when a 
moderate watering should be given, but not 
before, but they will require frequent waterings 
after the plants have come up ; and by planting 
some in succession about every three weeks in 
smaller pots, (forty-eights or thirty-twos,) three 
or four beans in each, and the plants placed close 
together in any convenient part of the house, to 
be coming forward while the more early crops 
are arriving to maturity ; and when the plants 
have come up one, two, or three inches high, 
shift them into larger pots with their balls entire, 
and give them an immediate watering. Likewise 
some may be raised in the borders of the forcing 
houses, in small drills an inch deep, either length 
or crossways the borders, placing the beans 
about two inches apart, earthing them over 
regularly, and give waterings as directed for 
those in pots. By this practice good crops may 
be obtained throughout the spring, until full 
crops succeed them in the open ground. 



FORCING CUCUMBERS. 



305 



GROWING CUCUMBERS IN FORCING HOUSES. 

Par. 68. — Cucumbers may be raised in the 
vinery, the peach-house, or other forcing houses. 
The plants should be raised by sowing the seed 
in a hotbed of dung or bark, in December, 
January, or February, and when the plants are a 
few days old, while in the seed leaves, prick them 
into small pots, (forty-eights,) three in each ; 
and when they have formed their rough leaves 
about two inches broad, turn them out of the 
pots with balls, and plant them into large ones, 
or into narrow oblong boxes, the earth being 
rich 1 and fine, the same as is generally used for 
frame cucumbers. Place them near the top 
glasses behind, that they may not shade the 
trees, &c. below ; as the plants advance in 
growth, place sticks for them to run upon for 
support, and give frequent waterings. When in 
bloom, impregnate the female with the farina of 
the male, by applying the centre of the flower 
(after removing the outside flower leaf) of the 
male, commonly called the false blossom, to the 
centre of the female flower, which always has the 



306 



FORCING LETTUCES. 



young fruit attached at the bottom of the flower. 
This is ouly necessary in early forcing, while the 
bees and other winged insects are scarce, par- 
ticularly the bees, which, by flying from flower 
to flower to collect honey, convey the farina of 
the male blossoms to those of the female, which 
causes the fruit to set more successfully. Al- 
though the plants generally succeed better by 
the above treatment, the seed may be sown in 
large pots or boxes, to remain for fruiting ; by 
this practice tolerably good early cucumbers are 
sometimes produced. It is also advisable to sow 
more seed occasionally, as failures will sometimes 
happen to these tender plants by mere accident; 
and by this precaution, if they are not quite so 
early, the disappointment will not be so great as 
entirely losing the early season. 

EARLY LETTUCES IN FORCING HOUSES. 

Par. 69. — Lettuces of different sorts, but par- 
ticularly the white Cos, may be forwarded for 
early use in forcing houses, by planting them in 
the borders any time in winter ; but the most 
successful way to have them in the best per- 



FORCING PEAS AND BEANS. 307 

fection in such places, is to transplant them from 
warm borders or frames, with some earth to 
their roots, in January and February, when the 
forcing is commenced, when they will advance 
to a tolerably good size, and with moderately 
good hearts for early use. 

PEAS AND BEANS IN FRUIT-TREE FORCING 
HOUSES. 

Par. 70. — Peas and beans may be brought 
into bearing for early use in tree-fruit forcing 
houses. The early frame peas and mazagan 
beans are the sorts usually selected for this 
purpose. Some may be sown in the borders of 
the house in November, sowing them in drills a 
distance from the trees ; likewise some may be 
sown thick in frames, or on a warm border, for 
transplanting into the borders of the bouse. 
These may be sown late in October, or beginning 
of November ; and by this early sowing the 
plants get considerable strength by the forcing 
season, and are generally more productive than 
those sown thick in pots for transplanting. Ne- 
vertheless, some may be sown in pots to be trans- 



308 ARTICLES FOR CULINARY PURPOSES. 



planted, if required, in November, December, or 
January, in a hotbed, (or hothouse, if any in 
motion,) to forward the plants by the forcing 
season to an inch or two high, and then trans- 
plant them into the borders of the fruit-tree 
forcing house, as soon as the forcing is com- 
menced, or before ; also some may be trans- 
planted into pots, if any convenient front situation 
can be afforded for them in the house. 

Frequent waterings will be necessary, and 
more so as they advance in bloom and the pods 
begin to appear ; these may be expected to be 
ready for gathering in April, and sometimes 
sooner, from those raised very early. 

RAISING EARLY, VARIOUS USEFUL ARTICLES FOR 
CULINARY PURPOSES, IN FORCING HOUSES. 

Par. 7 J .—Various useful things may be brought 
forward for early use, in the different forcing de- 
partments, when convenient to afford them room, 
such as green gooseberries for tarts, and currants 
for the same, or some to ripen, also rhubarb for 
the like purpose. Likewise many useful and 



FORCING DIFFERENT VARIETIES, &C. 309 

favourite herbs, such as mint, tarragon, tansey, 
&c. &c, taking up the roots from the open 
ground, which may be either introduced into the 
forcing house in pots, or be planted in any con- 
venient place on the borders or centre of the 
house ; also small salading may be kept in 
regular and constant supply, by frequent sowings 
for that purpose. Chilis should likewise be 
brought in for early green fruit, and also to 
forward them for a main crop of ripe fruit ; and 
any other articles which are likely to be wanted 
should not be omitted. 

OBSERVATIONS ON FORCING DIFFERENT VARIE- 
TIES OF CHOICE FLOWERS IN FORCING HOUSES. 

Par. 7*2. — Flowering plants of different varie- 
ties, consisting of bulbous, tuberous, and fibrous- 
rooted kinds, can also be successfully admitted 
into forcing houses for early bloom, at any time 
after the forcing has commenced, bringing in 
some at a time_, with a view to keeping up a 
succession, the whole of which may be in pots, 
or if preferred, some may be in small neat boxes, 



310 FORCING DIFFERENT VARIETIES 



made for the purpose, and neatly painted on the 
outside, with holes at the bottom, according to 
their size, to carry off the water, and filled with 
such soil as is suited to the sorts intended to be 
grown therein. 

Amongst the numerous varieties which may 
be brought into early bloom in forcing houses, 
may be introduced occasionally many kinds of 
greenhouse plants, also roses, including moss, 
white Provence, (mark, I mean by white Provence 
the old rose unique, or Grimwood's white Pro- 
vence, the wood of which is of a short, stumpy 
growth, on which the bloom comes amazingly 
strong, large, and double, and when expanded, 
of a beautiful white. I have named this, as it is 
not generally known, even among florists, that 
there is another sold under this name, which is a 
very free grower, equal to the old cabbage rose, 
but the bloom is by no means equal to the 
original white Provence). — Rose de Meux, Pom- 
pone, red and scarlet Provence, blush and 
crimson china, &c. Likewise pinks, piccotees, 
carnations, hyacinths, jonquils, dwarf tulips, 



OF CHOICE FLOWERS. 



311 



polyanthus, narcissus, ranunculus, anemones, 
bulbous and tuberous irises, stocks, mignionette, 
balsams, &c. ; also many choice sorts of Ame- 
rican plants, such as different varieties of rhodo- 
dendrons, azalias, kalinias, andromedas, ledums, 
daphnas, &c, with other flowering shrubs, con- 
sisting of double and single dwarf almonds, 
double blossom peach, double blossom cherry, 
Siberian and Persian lilac, syringas, and honey- 
suckles, with many other varieties of small growth, 
which taste and fancy may dictate. 

I would recommend all plants of a shrubby 
nature to be well established in the pots, at least 
to have become well rooted therein, before they 
are brought into the forcing house; and although 
I am not now writing a work on botanical cul- 
ture generally, (if I may use the term,) yet I 
think I may not here digress by observing that 
American plants, particularly w r hen forced, will 
derive great benefit from placing some sheep 
droppings round the top of the pot, about suffi- 
cient to cover the surface, which, by the repeated 
waterings, will greatly assist the plants, by the 



312 FORCING DIFFERENT VARIETIES, &C. 

juices being washed into the soil, and cause the 
bloom to be much finer. The sheep dung may 
be either removed or covered over with mould, 
prior to the plants being removed to the conser- 
vatory, or elsewhere, during the time of flowering. 



THE END. 



LONDON: 

PRINTED BY BLATCH AND LAMPERT, GROVE PLACE, BROMPTON. 



